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Witcher1979
7th September 2010, 13:47
Just a few pictures of what I am doing to my A1200. Its not done yet, I need to place more strips all over the case. But a quick look, I know a lot of people don't like this kind of stuff but I have always had a soft spot for led lights.

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/2526/1000885q.jpg (http://img843.imageshack.us/i/1000885q.jpg/)
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/2236/1000888t.jpg (http://img837.imageshack.us/i/1000888t.jpg/)
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/9130/1000891.jpg (http://img375.imageshack.us/i/1000891.jpg/)

Done some work on the numpad. Not very happy with it yet, but will keep going till it looks right. Bit better when case is screwed as well. It also makes the main drive/power led's glow as well which is a nice touch.

http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/3527/1000903n.jpg (http://img691.imageshack.us/i/1000903n.jpg/)

Will update with more pics as I get on.

Cheers for looking

PS if anyone has a spare HD cradle I could do with one :)

fitzsteve
7th September 2010, 13:50
Pimpin! :D

I should have a spare HD cradle, lemme check later tonight :cool:

I've got some Neons, now you've given me some ideas Muhahahahaha!

r0jaws
7th September 2010, 13:53
Very nice, a simple little mod, but effective. :)

Zetr0
7th September 2010, 14:01
@Jimbo

If you put a refelctive film on the top part of the chassis you will improve the light ballance. This would be pretty effective in the keyboard area.

I have to admit I do like the blue....

now .... would you like a simple circuit so that that it pulses with the harddisk or floppy activity? =D

Witcher1979
7th September 2010, 14:05
@Jimbo

If you put a refelctive film on the top part of the chassis you will improve the light ballance. This would be pretty effective in the keyboard area.

I have to admit I do like the blue....

now .... would you like a simple circuit so that that it pulses with the harddisk or floppy activity? =D

Hey

Do you have such a design to make that happen? Cause that would actually be really good. What kind of film would you suggest? Because I am going to work on the keyboard part later, I just need to work out the best place for the strips.

@Steve

Ideas for your 4000?? Would be a lot better using these in a tower, the A1200 case is a bit of a nightmare to put anything to make it shine well.

@r0jaws

I like it simple hehe

Skilgannon
7th September 2010, 14:07
I'm not a fan usually of "pimpin" my computers but that does look pretty damn good!

J

Cloudane
7th September 2010, 14:09
This week on "Pimp My Amy..." :D

Very nice. :thumbsup:

Think I'd go for red (especially if it has a PPC installed) but that's just me!

Xanxi
7th September 2010, 14:51
Not bad :)
Where did you get those LED and adaptor for power?

Witcher1979
7th September 2010, 14:55
Not bad :)
Where did you get those LED and adaptor for power?

The guy has loads of colours.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/donedeal1966/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340

For power, well I use a PC PSU, Then you can just grab power from the floppy drive power line with PC molex adapters. The power side was actually all done by JuvUK when I bought it.

Not done yet, will look a lot better. Zetr0's comment has me looking at my spare A1200 led board to make them flash when HD is working. Dunno if I am brave enough to go solo without help :)

Zetr0
7th September 2010, 15:19
I just had a look at the power consumption and in fact this is a lot easier than I first thought... although that would be pretty easy too..

the fact is these LED's are VERY low wattage SMD LED 5V arrays - I believe pending on the number say about 20 - 40 of these could infact be driven from the LED header on the A1200!

let me have a closer lookie and calculation later-today...

Although you could easly build a small array of upto 100 of these leds - powerd by +5v and pulsed with a very simple 74LS00 every time the HDD came on and or the FDD - infact how bling do you want to go - you could have two sets of the keyboard area (one set blue and one set red) each array will independently flash once the HDD or FDD is accessed - infact you could spend 5 minutes and solder on to the motherboard contacts so that when the PCMCIA port is accessed another Array is flashed..

very easy stuff to be honest =)

Witcher1979
7th September 2010, 15:34
I just had a look at the power consumption and in fact this is a lot easier than I first thought... although that would be pretty easy too..

the fact is these LED's are VERY low wattage SMD LED 5V arrays - I believe pending on the number say about 20 - 40 of these could infact be driven from the LED header on the A1200!

let me have a closer lookie and calculation later-today...

Although you could easly build a small array of upto 100 of these leds - powerd by +5v and pulsed with a very simple 74LS00 every time the HDD came on and or the FDD - infact how bling do you want to go - you could have two sets of the keyboard area (one set blue and one set red) each array will independently flash once the HDD or FDD is accessed - infact you could spend 5 minutes and solder on to the motherboard contacts so that when the PCMCIA port is accessed another Array is flashed..

very easy stuff to be honest =)

This could work out pretty well. I don't mind soldering onto the led board as I have spares, but would not want to attemt anything on the mother board. But looking at the LED board itself, if I took the two wires from the new lights and patched one to the ground which on my board is green, then one to the actual led would that make them flash?

Looking at this board, one ground joins them all then 3 wires for each light.

1= ground
0= blanked
1= led3
1= led2
1= led1
Thats the connector block, so would I get away with attaching one wire to ground, and the other to the led wire? Would that power 2 strips to flash?

Thanks again for looking at this for me, I can solder a bit hence don't want to try on board for pcmcia, but if I can just chop into those wires that would be dead easy. But if I did that they wouldnt stay on when drive is not being used..... hmmmmm

Cheers

Xanxi
7th September 2010, 17:31
the fact is these LED's are VERY low wattage SMD LED 5V arrays - I believe pending on the number say about 20 - 40 of these could infact be driven from the LED header on the A1200!

let me have a closer lookie and calculation later-today...


I'm interested in this calculation. If we look at my own desktop A1200, i run both internal and external floppy drives, internal HD, PCMCIA network card or CF, Indivision, Subway and two USB ports, sometimes a parallel device such as DSS+ digitizer, Blizzard 1230IV, and i drain power from an A500 brick. Will i kill my setup with those LEDs? What if i replace the 60830 by a 60860?

Tahoe
7th September 2010, 20:25
I'm interested in this calculation. If we look at my own desktop A1200, i run both internal and external floppy drives, internal HD, PCMCIA network card or CF, Indivision, Subway and two USB ports, sometimes a parallel device such as DSS+ digitizer, Blizzard 1230IV, and i drain power from an A500 brick. Will i kill my setup with those LEDs? What if i replace the 60830 by a 60860?

Actually I am amazed you manage to get all of that running stable on a 500 power supply :wooha:

Zetr0
7th September 2010, 23:32
Okay Calculation time

150 SMD LED's ( a string length of 2.5 meters) at 12 volts - will use approximately 24 watts - about 1.2 AMPs

You will have about 225 - 250 LM (lumi) light output


Simply put a basic Amiga PSU will likely show signs of struggle with that overhead - so I would suggest an upgraded PSU - the LED header on the Amiga probably wont be able to power it - so I would suggest a small LED driver circuit - it can be done on veroboard (breadboard) and with a small driving circuit - cost < $10

I have some old schematics I did at college so let me see if I can dig one up in the morning =)

Phipscube
7th September 2010, 23:41
This looks great! And if you do what Zetr0 says with the LED's connected to the drive activity then you will have one funky disco Amiga! :D

Xanxi
8th September 2010, 08:44
Okay Calculation time

150 SMD LED's ( a string length of 2.5 meters) at 12 volts - will use approximately 24 watts - about 1.2 AMPs

You will have about 225 - 250 LM (lumi) light output


Simply put a basic Amiga PSU will likely show signs of struggle with that overhead - so I would suggest an upgraded PSU - the LED header on the Amiga probably wont be able to power it - so I would suggest a small LED driver circuit - it can be done on veroboard (breadboard) and with a small driving circuit - cost < $10

I have some old schematics I did at college so let me see if I can dig one up in the morning =)

Why so much LEDs? What about 2*9 like in this thread?

Witcher1979
8th September 2010, 08:50
Okay Calculation time

150 SMD LED's ( a string length of 2.5 meters) at 12 volts - will use approximately 24 watts - about 1.2 AMPs

You will have about 225 - 250 LM (lumi) light output


Simply put a basic Amiga PSU will likely show signs of struggle with that overhead - so I would suggest an upgraded PSU - the LED header on the Amiga probably wont be able to power it - so I would suggest a small LED driver circuit - it can be done on veroboard (breadboard) and with a small driving circuit - cost < $10

I have some old schematics I did at college so let me see if I can dig one up in the morning =)

Smoking :) I already have an upgraded PSU so power that way is alright. I already have the 2x9 for the vernts. Was thinking off adding another 2 sets (4x9) for the keyboard. One question, upgraded PC PSU (max output 150w). I have one molex coming from the floppy power, how much power can be drawn from this one connection? Or does it not matter how much I plug in as the PSU is upgraded.

Cheers

Witcher1979
8th September 2010, 13:23
Bit of an update on the numpad. Not 100% happy with it yet but its getting there slowly. It makes the normal drive/power led glow as well which is a nice touch. Oh well will keep on playing with this. I might decide to buy my own led's to make something instead of these strips.

http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/3527/1000903n.jpg (http://img691.imageshack.us/i/1000903n.jpg/)

Updated main post as well.

tokyoracer
8th September 2010, 14:13
If only there was a way to 'Laser Etch' the keys somehow. . .

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss235/Solvalu/1067329364_feace8ac77.jpg

Thats more-or-less the same keyboard I use for the PeeCee.

Zetr0
8th September 2010, 14:21
Hiyas Xanxi


Why so much LEDs? What about 2*9 like in this thread?

I chose 150 leds as its just an easy number to work with when supplying 12v.

you can scale the number of LED's back and so will the amps

so that 15 LED's at 12v would cost you 2.4 watts

2.4 watts over 12volts = 0.2 Amps on the +12v rail.

So if you said two arrays of 15 SMD LED's using the +12v rail it would draw 0.4 amps from the PSU - this the Amiga PSU can do quite comftably - although I honestly dont think its all that wise to be honest...

the Amiga Powersupply is over 15 years old... these units were not designed to live 10 years, let alone 15 (in the case of the A1200) and over 20 years in the case of the Amiga 500!!!


@Jimbo

Looking very nice! i like the way its headding -

The cable used in most ATX PC power supplies can handle 15-20 amps (if not a lot more) on each rail - there is a calculation of width, length and if its just coppper / plated or an alloy - but thats math that doesn't need to be done on a wednesday... 10 amps would be a 100% overkill for the amiga any more than that in a desktop is NEVER likely to be seen - unlless you see flames - people jumping out of windoes.. lol

Now the best method for creating a reflective surface for the underside of the Amiga Plasics is to use a chrome-refelctive spraypaint..

Ingredients:

1. dish washer
2. some old news paper
3. some masking tape
4. some plastic primer (battleship grey from poundland (http://www.poundland.co.uk/product-range/a-z/autoquest-gloss-paint-spray/))
5. Screwfix/ Halfords / Wilkinsons - just make sure its Acylic based =) (http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24167/Paint/Specialist-Paints/Plasti-Kote-Appliance-Enamel-Paint-400ml-Satin-Chrome?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Paint-_-Plasti-Kote%20Appliance%20Enamel%20Paint%20400ml%20Satin%20Chrome)


Method:

1. Getting the top part ready
Strip thetop plastic from the A1200 and place in the dishwasher on 50c (60c if you must) allow the dishwasher to cleans the plastic - once the wash cycle is complete remove the plastics before the drying cycle commences.

this may sound strange but wash your hands before hadnling the clean top pastic, remeber to remove any debris from the underside of the case. Now place the plastic top in an airing cupboard for approximately two hours.


2. Prepare your area
Create a 3-4 foot area where you can spray paint without the missues wanting to kill you for the damage to the carpet / surfaces - once done (and completed the subsequent argument of "no i wont get it on this or that") - its time to get the A1200 plastic out mof the airing cupboard.


3. Tape and Masking
Using the masking tape to tape newspapter to the cut-in of the keyboard *this is so that only the underside that you dont see is covered*
I would suggest - if you can - tape up (with news paper) the top viewable side of the top plastic - dont forget to do the side cut-in for the keyboard - this is important if you want it to look STOCK.


4. Undercoat-tastic
Now its time to laydown some undercoat... this should be quite simple just remember to shake the can well - and hold it about 16 - 20 inches away from the target - a technique I would recommend is in "short-controlled-bursts" of about 3 - 5 seconds... and then wipe the nozzel with a cloth. - shake and repeat untill you have a good cover. try not to let it pool - its better to two a couple of light coats than a thick heavy one.

so buzz over it in a horizonal fashion - give it about 20 minutes and buzz over it in a vertical fashion - couple of light coats is all you really need - now allow this to touch dry for about 30 minutes - and then put it away for a good day - so stick it in an airing cupboard or somewhere it wont be disturbed (dont remove the paper/masking)

*remember to clean the nozzel of the can - to do this hold the spray-can upside down and give it a 3 second burst press - this will clean the nozzel.


5. Chrome painting is FUN!!!
YAY the fun part, spray-painting a top coat on the underside of the plastic... cool eh?

simple as before - shake the paint as well as you can (your arm should feel like its about to fall off) and then about 16 - 20 inches away from the target do light coats - perhaps upto three.... now to coats will take a while to cure and its best to give a good 40 minutes between coats minimum perhaps even upto an hour - so read the destructions on the side of the can and see what it suggests... I would always add 15- 20 minutes to that time as temperature / humidity is never constant to the manufactures recommendation.

okay.... when finally done - clean the nozzel and allow this puppy a good day to dry and appologies to your partner on any spills or mis-haps that occured from a spooky ghost / pet that disturbed you

Once done you can remove the masking tape and paper and as a good Cosmos would say "En voilą" =)

now... that lot should help or invoke the involentary ability of swallowing ones own tounge to save them from a death of bordeom...

=)

Witcher1979
8th September 2010, 14:34
Zetr0, I dont know what to say apart from WOW. That is the most detailed step by step guide I have seen in a looooooooooooooong time. Which is handy because I am the type of person who needs this kind of instruction. I will be popping into town this weekend to pick this stuff up :) Thanks ever so much for that info :)

Still not sure on these strips or just getting led's and making my own up. I can see one issue is the middle of the keyboard will not be lit up, just the edges, I think that will happen even with the reflection from the above. If I stuck strips between key rows it would work, I think the keys would still go down enough, but then you would see a bright led strip, I dont really want the strips to be seen at all.

Thanks again for that post, very handy :) Gives me ideas for my PC as well

Zetr0
8th September 2010, 14:38
[additional hackery]

Another idea would be to purchase an illuminated keboard - somthing like a PS/2 sunbeam tech illuminated keyboard *ie. cheap (http://www.bigbruin.com/reviews05/sunbeamprokey/index.php?file=1) - and hack it.

http://www.bigbruin.com/reviews05/sunbeamprokey/large/pic03.jpg

http://www.bigbruin.com/reviews05/sunbeamprokey/large/pic10.jpg
first remove the bottom part of the keyboard - you wont need that

take the top part off and spray that a matching A1200 white (morris minor white from halfords is spot on in colour!)

now... all you need to do is buy a small Amiga to PS2 interface (amigakit / vesalia stock these) - remove the old Amiga keyboard from the chassis and mate the top half of this keyboard (or somthing like it )- on top of the Amiga top chassis...

the beauty here is

1. it will give you more space inthe chassis to move heat out or add extra mods.
2. a new nice feel keyboard with programmable media buttons
3. illuminated keys - so with a little effort you could remove the windows keys glphs and with print out rub-on decals print your own amiga ones.. like a colourfull boing or tick =)

I would when modding somthing like this source the +5 volts from either the power in / internal picopsu ;) or FDD connector.

Harrison
8th September 2010, 16:31
When I started reading this thread I also instantly thought how cool it would be to somehow alter the keyboard into a laser etched one with backlit blue LED keys. Would look brilliant and give reason for the LEDs. :thumbup:

Not so sure about that keyboard though Keith. Looks a bit cheap compared to the original A1200 one. A more expensive but great looking idea would be a black A1200 and a converted Razor or Logitech back lit keyboard. Now that would be cool.

Witcher1979
8th September 2010, 16:36
Hey

Yeah without the keyboard or the keys being lit correct this is pointless, I will have a look at those keyboards you mentioned. I think its impossible to get the standard 1200 keyboard lit apart from the edges. You can see from, the numpad the edges are fine but the middle of the pad is dark. Keith's idea about different keys is spot on, just need to find one that looks good. Trouble is, is I like the 1200 keys the way they are. Not sure what to do yet.

I am glad Keith told me the best way to get this reflective spray, that will help me loads over the weekend :)

Thanks guys

tokyoracer
8th September 2010, 17:18
take the top part off and spray that a matching A1200 white (morris minor white from halfords is spot on in colour!)
I should think you're probably better off with vinyl dye rather then using spraypaint.

rkauer
8th September 2010, 17:28
On a second thought, you can also dismantle the A1200 keyboard and do the metal paint on the frontal face of the black mask*.

Yes, you'll have to block all holes on the mask prior to painting to avoid that one of the needles/actuators get stuck after reassemble. Not a work to do in a hurry.

*black mask: the plastic part of the keyboard where the coils lies to bounce the keycaps back.