3000T restoration

nolunchman

New member
Joined
Oct 8, 2018
Posts
8
Country
United States
Region
CA
yes, battery damage. hope to get my old friend back up and running. wish me luck.

PANA8383.jpg
 

Attachments

  • PANA8434.jpg
    PANA8434.jpg
    200.3 KB · Views: 2
Hi,

A3000T and frequent Ni-Cd accu/battery PCB damage :(

Good luck with repair. A3000T is good and rare hardware.

Regards, Sveta
 
Last edited:
Hi,

What kind of equipment and skills/knowledge you have?
I'm asking this, because I have seen a lot of electronic stuff damaged by the users/owners with insufficient knowledge/experience when attempting to repair/upgrade.
 
Good point to consider by Stan.

Most black screens for the 3000 with accelerators is related to the accelerator. 3000,s usually give another tell like blinking power led or screen colors/flickering. Unless the damage to the mb is material in nature.

Set the jumpers and try with the onboard 030 with the warp engine removed.
 
Last edited:
Hi,

Stachu has right and too you have correct jumpers settings before replace CPU 030 on board A3000T? Main for internal CPU or for external turbocard?

Regards, Sveta
 
Hi,

What kind of equipment and skills/knowledge you have?
I'm asking this, because I have seen a lot of electronic stuff damaged by the users/owners with insufficient knowledge/experience when attempting to repair/upgrade.

I have a decent reflow and soldering workstation. I have soldered enough PCBs and ICs in the past to work on single and 2 layer boards. I was able to remove the FPU, which had 2 corroded pads.

contentRedirection


contentRedirection


- - - Updated - - -

Good point to consider by Stan.

Most black screens for the 3000 with accelerators is related to the accelerator. 3000,s usually give another tell like blinking power led or screen colors/flickering. Unless the damage to the mb is material in nature.

Set the jumpers and try with the onboard 030 with the warp engine removed.

I have tried with 030 only and setting J100 J103 J102 and J104 to internal no fpu but I still get immediate black screen with vertical stripes. I even tried using Diagrom chips but I don't get any serial output, so it must be something on the board. There is an IC near the battery that had some corrosion (Texas Instruments logic IC). I will try replacing that.
 
If your getting vertical lines, it isn't the cpu. Accelerator failure is a solid black screen with only a dim power led. An 030 failure is yellow flashing screen, much if you boot without a daughterboard on a 3000 desktop.

Your issue will require lots of columbo work for sure. Good schematics and lots of patience (just one more thing (tribute to columbo) will help...

Good luck!

The 3000T is the holy grail of Amiga's... Not many out there and in high demand. Enjoy it.

Hi,

What kind of equipment and skills/knowledge you have?
I'm asking this, because I have seen a lot of electronic stuff damaged by the users/owners with insufficient knowledge/experience when attempting to repair/upgrade.

I have a decent reflow and soldering workstation. I have soldered enough PCBs and ICs in the past to work on single and 2 layer boards. I was able to remove the FPU, which had 2 corroded pads.

contentRedirection


contentRedirection


- - - Updated - - -

Good point to consider by Stan.

Most black screens for the 3000 with accelerators is related to the accelerator. 3000,s usually give another tell like blinking power led or screen colors/flickering. Unless the damage to the mb is material in nature.

Set the jumpers and try with the onboard 030 with the warp engine removed.

I have tried with 030 only and setting J100 J103 J102 and J104 to internal no fpu but I still get immediate black screen with vertical stripes. I even tried using Diagrom chips but I don't get any serial output, so it must be something on the board. There is an IC near the battery that had some corrosion (Texas Instruments logic IC). I will try replacing that.
 
Last edited:
Hello,

corrosion from battery damage can be the clue, so lock for it: every pin that no more shines, is affected by corrosion and the tracks under it can be corroded, or the pin itself, that seems to be soldered, in fact give not more a reliable contact! This is important to know! After a leakage of acid from a rechargeable battery, the soldered pins that no more shines can have very poor contact, despite they look good soldered!
Another thing, the A3000T-040 was sold without 68030 and 68882, with the same motherboard, so, not sure about that, but if you use it with a cpu card, you can detach both processors.

Then the original PLCC sockets are very strong! Without any action on the inside IC, you can just look for the alignement of all the pins of the sockets!

Regards
Stefano
 
Last edited:
A couple of the track repair areas look like there *might* be some bridges (Marked in red) or breaks (Marked in yellow). May be worth a second look.

PANA8434.jpg
 
Last edited:
A couple of the track repair areas look like there *might* be some bridges (Marked in red) or breaks (Marked in yellow).


first off, thanks wonkey for taking the time to scrutinize the pics. it is much appreciated. i've gone over the traces with a multimeter more than a dozen times because i saw the same things you did. won't hurt to do it one more time just to be safe.

just a thought:
the repaired traces are all going to the FPU, but if i disable the FPU (or even remove it altogether), could the amiga still be affected?
 
I couldn't say with any certainty. I don't own a 3000, I've just been watchng a lot of youtube stuff regarding track and pad repairs recently. I wouldn't have thought disabling or removing an FPU would stop a machine working as they are often optional, but in the case of an A3000 they are soldered to the mainboard so are probably mandatory.
 
Hello,

look under the two ROM sockets, but you need to detaches it.

Regards
Stefano
 
Hello,

just a bit more infos.
Take care about the jumpers on the A3000T, because they are more complex of the A3000D; you can learn about it on some documents like 'The Zorro III bus specification' and 'The A3000 local bus expansion slot specification' both found here...

http://www.thule.no/haynie/

A wrong jumper configuration on your A3000T can lead a damage of the motherboard.

About what wrong on a not working A3000 motherboard, the answer can be: Agnus (few probability) or the socket (more probability), FatGary (very few probability) or his socket (same as Agnus's socket, and same as all the PLCC sockets on the board); one of the CIA (can be, especially on the A1200 and A4000) or, in your scenario, all the area between FPU and ROM. The question is: how react a not working FPU? Can be disabled on motherboard like a working one? I do not know!
If this motherboard was mine i detach the FPU, the two sockets of the ROM, i repair what is needed to attention, put a socket for the fpu (or solder it directly on motherboard, it depend on the skill of the technician) and then hope that all is fine! About the damaged track, i replace it with fine copper drawn like the original traces, to avoid this fat wires.
I have spoken about A3000T, without CPU and FPU, sold with an A3640: that is true but i do not know the jumper configuration! Take care about it!
I have repaired some A3000T that came from Poland and i know what i say about FPU and ROM socket!
The chek of the linearity of the pins on the PLCC socket, with IC inside, is good and i suggest you to look at this thing.

Regards
Stefano
 

Attachments

  • rework_third_board_2.jpg
    rework_third_board_2.jpg
    184.3 KB · Views: 1
  • rework_third_board_3.jpg
    rework_third_board_3.jpg
    206.7 KB · Views: 0
  • DCP_7154.jpg
    DCP_7154.jpg
    165.6 KB · Views: 0
  • DCP_6830.jpg
    DCP_6830.jpg
    204.6 KB · Views: 0
  • DCP_6871.jpg
    DCP_6871.jpg
    207 KB · Views: 0
  • DCP_6883.jpg
    DCP_6883.jpg
    208.6 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom