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Thread: My 3000T restoration and hot-rodding

  1. #1
    furan-'s Avatar
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    Cool My 3000T restoration and hot-rodding

    There was an Amiga 3000 tower on ebay for a long time that had a ridiculous price. I kept lowballing the guy for months and finally got it for 1/3rd of the price and got him to throw in a monitor/keyboard/mouse. So far I've cleaned out the insides, removed the unused drives (they'd been unhooked and dead), maxed out the ram on the board, and installed a CyberStorm PPC 200mhz w/68060. As far as I can tell, the 3000 tower is rare. It is in need of a lot of cleaning and some retr0bright action.

    I've never done retr0bright, and I'm worried about a few things:
    1) I'm in Seattle, the sun is pretty much gone right now
    2) I'm worried that if I use gel I'll get streaks
    3) I want to be careful with the 3000T logo painted on the case.

    Does anyone have any advice about that? Thanks in advance. Here's a picture of the current tower (left), with the shade of white it should be on the right. I'll keep updating this thread. Right now I'm looking for case feet.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    vibros's Avatar
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    Hello,

    i have wrote something about that, made on the front cover of an A4000D. You need H2O2 or something to made hairs blond: plunge the plastic on it for a while then put the same plastic under the sun. Warm is not needed so the daylight of a cold winter is ok .

    Regards
    Stefano
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Retrobright_A500.jpg   Retrobright_A500-2.jpg  
    Last edited by vibros; 2nd November 2018 at 19:02.

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    Amibayer! ajk's Avatar
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    Full submersion in dilute H2O2 is the safest known option. You don't particularly need UV light, but the solution needs to be gently heated (but not boiling, or even close to boiling). Some people have used a sous-vide immersion heater for this purpose. Also, the parts need to be thoroughly clean of dirt and grease for even results.

    I have retro-brighted individual key caps in a glass of H2O2 placed inside a warm water bath. Works well and needs no sunlight (or any other light source). I do not have experience with parts quite that large, but the principle should be the same.

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    Niezgodka's Avatar
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    Do not retrobrite the panel right away. Practice on some keyboard, floppy panels, anything.
    If I ware You - I would wait for next summer.

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    I retrobright cases all year, summer it works just faster due to more light and warm. I used to put parts close to most sunny window.
    I use h2o2 liquid 12%. I spray it over parts and cover by thin transparent food wrap.
    Food wrap is needed to keep h2o2 touching all surfaces evenly and prevent h2o2 evaporation.
    I use it also for keyboards without removing keys.
    In case surface is not flat, I use h2o2 creme, but creme may harden and contains oils so will require soap washing that sometimes may be inconvenient.
    So I avoid using creme.
    Rarely I use spray with h2o2 also to gently retrobright cases with electronics kept inside, like external floppy or cd drives. H2o2 light mist covers only external parts.
    It is better to use mist 2 times than using too much h2o2 one time. It is better to do it 2 times for shorter time and check progress to fix issues meantime.
    Last edited by ori1a; 1st November 2018 at 17:42.

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    comraider's Avatar
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    I used Vol 40 H2O2 gel for my 3000T, worked fine. Logo was okay too. (just as keycaps don't lose their lettering, logos stay fine). I used baby wipes to thoroughly clean it first, wiped it dry with a microfiber cloth, and then used a foam brush to evenly apply the gel and covered it with plastic wrap and put it in the sun for a few hours--checking periodically to make sure it didn't dry out.

    One caution: the real color of a 3000T is more cream colored like the 3000. Maybe it's the lighting, but that 3000T in your post is way too white. The 4000 was white like that, not the 3000(T).
    Last edited by comraider; 1st November 2018 at 18:49.

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    furan-'s Avatar
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    After doing some research, I'm going to try Jerome Russell Bblonde Cream Peroxide (40% Volume 12%). I'll coat the whole cover in the gel, put it in a shallow container and seal it with plastic wrap, then use a high powered UV light and wait a day or so (and keep checking on it). I will retrobright a few plastics I don't care about first to get the knack of it. Thanks for all the advice, it's good to know I can work this out while waiting for the sun to come back.

    Currently having a hard time getting Fast ATA 4000 working. At first, I found 2 bent address pins on the upgraded chip ram, behind the floppies and fixed that. It just solved the mystery of why only 15 megs was being enumerated. But if I have the Fast ATA 4000 in the system at the same time as the PowerPC, it won't boot. At the next boot it gives the 0x80000004 "Something went wrong" guru meditation. This is going to sound silly but I always assume zorro cards have components facing "up" and that's the only way I'm inserting them (FFS I'm not going to try turning it around).

    Anybody have any ideas? I've upgraded to the latest buster chip and made sure it was seated properly in the right orientation and no pins were bent. I disabled the rom patch option for scsi in the PowerPC menu.

    I'm also having trouble switching to the kickstart 3.x chips, because I'm missing workbench.library (apparently), and that comes with the amiga classic upgrade that I've purchased on compact flash, which I'll be running from the FastATA controller. Can I just place that file for now, or will I need to install the updated classic os? I need to boot from the old drive first so I can get the CyberStorm stuff on the new CF drive before I can boot from it.

    BigRamPlus (which I didn't need but yay ridiculous ram), and the x-surf 1000 enumerate fine on zorro, so I don't think it's an issue with the slots.

    Edit: I have a hunch that I need the latest firmware on the CyberStorm PPC card. Like maybe the card rom is trying to execute illegal instructions that are emulated...or something. I looked at the pinout of the zorro bus and the traces on the card, and sure enough I am putting it in the right way up.

    Thanks, sorry I'm a complete retard with Amigas still. I'm working on an old machine collection, here's a picture of the BeBox I received today (after months of IBAN problems and getting it from a small town in France!):
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I won't be powering that up until I do a complete inspection inside.
    Last edited by furan-; 2nd November 2018 at 01:35.

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    furan-'s Avatar
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    I took out all the chip ram and it still repro'd, so it turns out, two of the 32 bit pins on the 68030 on the board had been bent together. =O Fixed.

    Edit: It turns out that was not the issue... I had upgraded to a new buster chip, and yes it was in the right orientation I googled the guru code I was getting and found something about zorro termination, so I swapped back to the old chip and it's happy now, all of my cards are working, I'm running from kickstart 3.x and running OS off compact flash.

    I wonder if there is something funky about the 3000T motherboard and swapping out to the latest buster chip.
    Last edited by furan-; 2nd November 2018 at 05:55.

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    CPU cards with own SCSI host needs INT2-Mod in the A3000D/T.

    http://amiga.serveftp.net/A3000_INT2_mod.html

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    Would this cause issues with the Zorro bus?

    BTW I found that if the CPU runs at 16mhz, it's incompatible with the v9/v11 buster, but I looked at my motherboard and u104 is 50mhz and the bus is set to 25mhz.

    I need to replace the battery with a coin cell anyway so adding that bodge wire shouldn't be a problem.

    Edit: looks like the answer is yes! Hopefully this mod will make Buster 11 work fine. Thanks @richv!

    Edit 2: Looks like my tower is one of the ones that is missing the 74xx08 quad input and gate that belongs in the U103 socket. Hopefully that also might help.

    Edit 3:
    I found a picture of this motherboard, it has an ls chip in it but maybe I need f with the accelerator.
    took the old chip out of the plcc socket and put the new one in
    - no bent pins
    - put the 74ls in (checked polarity), swapped buster
    - flashing black/gray
    - so I took the 74ls out and put in the old chip, swapped back to original buster
    - also flashing black/gray
    - checked that there were no bent pins in the socket or on the chip
    - double checked the direction it should be facing
    - checked that I didn't accidentally scratch a trace


    I can't figure out why I can't restore the previous state
    Last edited by furan-; 2nd November 2018 at 13:06.

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