Closed Soldering service needed desperately!!

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britlord

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Guys.. I need someone to solder in the 2 CLPD XC9572XL-10VQ64 to my T530 board. I do have them both tacked in place using a tiny bit of epoxy (You see I can solder the rest).. But these parts. The pins are just too close together, and I don't have the right soldering tip too. I'll pay for the service, and shipping back to me.... Though I did try, but got too many shorts (I had to remove the chip).. I would be very grateful..

I'll even give you some free spare (Blank) boards that I have (V2 or V3).. Oh, and some CPU Riser boards too..

Thanks..
 

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Happy to help too, I have all the equipment but I'm located much further away in Australia :p I probably should get around to building myself one of these boards.
 
You don't need a special tip to solder these, you drag solder them with a chisel or truncated cone tip. Lots of flux, solder on the iron, drag across. Many demonstration youtube videos. You will likely get bridges - you just clean them up with desoldering braid.
 
If you want to try again yourself before shipping it overseas, I can recommend using some decent desoldering braid like this: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2792843.pdf

Using this, you can get decent SMD soldering results even with a mediocre soldering iron.

Just solder everything in place using as little solder as possible (and ignore any shorts that will occur). Put the braid on top, covering all the pins on one side of the IC, then the soldering iron and wait until it starts to absorb the solder. Do the same for the other three sides and you're done. The braid will not be able to suck up 100% of the solder and if you remove the braid at the right time, you will find that all pins are soldered very nicely. If not, you can just start over by adding new solder to the pins and try again.

The main thing that can go wrong with this method is if your iron doesn't get hot enough to heat up the braid sufficiently and melt the flux. 400 degC is often a good setting, and an unregulated 25W iron will probably have a hard time getting there (remember that the braid 'sucks' some heat).
 
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If you want to try again yourself before shipping it overseas, I can recommend using some decent desoldering braid like this: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2792843.pdf

Using this, you can get decent SMD soldering results even with a mediocre soldering iron.

Just solder everything in place using as little solder as possible (and ignore any shorts that will occur). Put the braid on top, covering all the pins on one side of the IC, then the soldering iron and wait until it starts to absorb the solder. Do the same for the other three sides and you're done. The braid will not be able to suck up 100% of the solder and if you remove the braid at the right time, you will find that all pins are soldered very nicely. If not, you can just start over by adding new solder to the pins and try again.

The main thing that can go wrong with this method is if your iron doesn't get hot enough to heat up the braid sufficiently and melt the flux. 400 degC is often a good setting, and an unregulated 25W iron will probably have a hard time getting there (remember that the braid 'sucks' some heat).

OK I bought this iron. Will it be fine for the job, as I'll try again. I do have 10 boards and more CLPD's in my kit (if needed)...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-S...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
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Looks decent to me. It has good power and is temp regulated. Just use one of the flat sided tips. It may seem counter-intuitive to use a large tip with SMD, but the size is not all that matters. :)
From the tips on pic #6 I would probably go for the rightmost one.

In stead of braid (which has flux incorporated) you can also just get some good quality flux separately and use it like in this clip:
https://youtu.be/hoLf8gvvXXU?t=379
Flux is mandatory for this kind of work and makes everything so much easier.

If you mess it up, braid will clean up the mess in a jiffy so it is nice to have around.

Found an even better video that shows how easy it can be to make it look perfect:
https://youtu.be/nyele3CIs-U?t=66
Okay, it may not be that easy in reality but it sure looks quite easy when you watch someone with the right equipment who knows how to use it. (I guess that sounded like another sub-belt metaphor) :)
 
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+1 what demolition said above, and also if you have means to get some liquid rosin based flux adding plenty of that around the joints will also help a lot. But with the right braid/technique this might not be needed, but still helps. Rule of thumb you can never have too much flux, and even if you do, you can always just clean it up afterwards with isoprophyl alcohol.
 
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+1 what demolition said above, and also if you have means to get some liquid rosin based flux adding plenty of that around the joints will also help a lot. But with the right braid/technique this might not be needed, but still helps. Rule of thumb you can never have too much flux, and even if you do, you can always just clean it up afterwards with isoprophyl alcohol.

Hi.. I have the water type flux (Not the thicker type stuff) is that OK..

- - - Updated - - -

Looks decent to me. It has good power and is temp regulated. Just use one of the flat sided tips. It may seem counter-intuitive to use a large tip with SMD, but the size is not all that matters. :)
From the tips on pic #6 I would probably go for the rightmost one.

In stead of braid (which has flux incorporated) you can also just get some good quality flux separately and use it like in this clip:
https://youtu.be/hoLf8gvvXXU?t=379
Flux is mandatory for this kind of work and makes everything so much easier.

If you mess it up, braid will clean up the mess in a jiffy so it is nice to have around.

Found an even better video that shows how easy it can be to make it look perfect:
https://youtu.be/nyele3CIs-U?t=66
Okay, it may not be that easy in reality but it sure looks quite easy when you watch someone with the right equipment who knows how to use it. (I guess that sounded like another sub-belt metaphor) :)

I have no problem soldering those chips cos the legs are not so close, as with the CLPD's .. It's just the CLPD's that I have problems with even using a microscope.. Oh, another problem is that the pads are a bit short, so the chips legs are near the end of the pads..
 
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With a good quality board like this one, it shouldn't be too bad/hard to get your excess solder off of it. What's the brand of solder that you plan on using?
 
With a good quality board like this one, it shouldn't be too bad/hard to get your excess solder off of it. What's the brand of solder that you plan on using?

This reel of solder...
 

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