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Thread: 1084S-P LOPT+HOT replace

  1. #111
    resistance is futile! Amibayer! roy_bates's Avatar
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    its an odd fault really...very odd.

    i have never had a monitor ive repaired go like yours after a lopt replacement,ever.(ive done more than a few now,and one or two that required a full strip down to fix them)
    all of them had there own unique problems from power supply failure to lopt to audio problems(some all at once).plus a few many most wont see in there lifetime...and some ive admitted to being self inflicted by myself during a repair,lol
    now that ive seen this,im making notes on it for future repairs in case i run into it,i honestly havnt seen anything like it.
    or even anything similar for that matter.
    if you think ive been lucky,you would be wrong.

    EDIT: can take a picture of the rear of your monitor with the sockets in shot.and show which socket your using,im assuming your using the analogue rgb port.
    try to use the amiga through composite on the composite port and see if that has the same effect with the bars.
    there is a reason why i want you to try this,as you probably understand.
    then depending on the answer i get, ill try to give you response that you can try that may be fairly easy if you have some tools and soldering iron
    it may involve looking for a component on the board.

    i also need to know if you fitted the lopts and what you did while installing them,as in:did you set the brightness to certain level before turning up the screen knob on the flyback?
    or,did you just fit the lopt and turned up the screen knob and it worked?
    Last edited by roy_bates; 14th May 2015 at 23:09.
    i have got too much hardware,it would only hurt your eyes to look at it here

  2. #112
    Only Amiga..... fordav1's Avatar
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    I'm using the Commodore-supplied cable that came with the A1000 when I bought it in 1985 (I no longer have the A1000)
    The cable is 23 pin D connector to SCART. I don't have an RGB analogue cable.
    Have tested it with all Amigas in my collection (A500, A500+, A600, A1200, A2000(x2), A3000, A4000). All the same.
    The rear is the same as shown in the manual here... http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarls...s/1081/ADJ.jpg
    I fitted the LOPT and set the screen control so the raster retrace line doesn't show then adjusted the brightness to get the best picture (i.e. the standard procedure when setting up arcade monitors)
    I have a room full of equipment for doing electronic repairs (mostly for arcade PCBs) and have been repairing stuff like that since about 1995. Soldering is no problem (even surface mounted SOIC/SOP/SOJ/PLCC/QFP and BGA)
    I rarely touch power supplies or monitors though.
    I just tested the b/w composite coming out of my A500+ and it's the same (with jailbars). As I said the screen has jailbars even without any video cable connected.
    Last edited by fordav1; 15th May 2015 at 11:05.

  3. #113

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    I have a Commodore 1084S-P1 squeals when turned on so I assume it's the flyback, which seems to be a correct assumption after desoldering and measuring.

    donberg.ie has the HR7533 (AT2079-37593) that is needed but I also found it in Serbia, for "1050 din" which is just $10.
    http://www.proelectronic.rs/SPLIT-TR...37593-2438.htm

    It's a bit hard to handle Google translate and such but I think I got something through, I'll see if I get a reply and what shipping cost it is.

  4. #114

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    They didn't want to sell the cheap one to me, some deal they had with ASWO, so I registered there only to find that they had the same flyback for 1/3 of the donberg price... But I had already bought it from donberg.

    Got this today:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Chipped and cracked again - not as bad as my first HR7506 but still... It was well packed and re-packed, don't think it happened in shipping. The top ferrite is glued on at a slight angle - seems the damage could have been done then.
    I have complained again, don't know if I can safely use it.


    EDIT:
    Got a reply, they were going to send a new one, but they didn't have it in stock so it'll take a week or more.
    Last edited by e5frog; 26th May 2015 at 18:51.

  5. #115
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    I gave a good read of the thread but I have a couple of questions (naturally ) since I want to get some spare parts for the future for my 1084S-P1 monitor.

    a. What is the correct replacement lopt for it? Is it HR7533 or HR7506 ? I can see here the author says it's 7533 and I read in the thread about both of them. I can get 7533 locally and I tend to believe this is the correct replacement lopt - ofcourse any comment is welcomed on this.

    b. Regarding the HOT, it's a ST BU508A I can source locally the Philips BU508AW , it seems it's a direct replacement, can someone verify just to be sure 100% ?


    reason I want to get replacements is because today all of a sudden on a working and recapped/cleaned arcade chassis (not the humidity damaged one from the other thread) the LOPT (HR7191) decided to suicide. Quite a bummer for something that was looking good... so I assume that along with the LOPT I will need to change the HOT as well - it also happens to be a ST BU508A ... so I thought it would be a good idea to have some parts for the 1084 as well...
    Last edited by keropi; 29th February 2016 at 19:03.
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  6. #116
    resistance is futile! Amibayer! roy_bates's Avatar
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    correct lopt for a 1084s-p1 is a hr7533

    correct hot transistor is a BU508AF(mentioned in the service manual) or D1577,if you get one with a metal tab use a sil pad to insulate between transistor and heatsink or itl blow the fuse in a short


    thats 100% info


    1084S-P which is the earlier model,uses a HR7506 and uses the BU508A and D1577 hot transistor


    all you have to do to find out is read the label on the rear as a identifier for the chassis


    the HR6489 is for a very early model,this has a separate screen and focus unit on the tube neck assembly(neck boards can be the same as used for the hr7506),it can be identified by the square outline on the pins on the underside of the pcb instead of a U shaped pin config,they are not interchangeable

    i can put up a picture of this model,if there is any confusion,although i dont think there are alot of them around now maybe

    there was also an early release and late release boards with stereo and mono audio configs,but i wont get into that or itll get veru confusing,and not very relivant to this post
    Last edited by roy_bates; 8th May 2017 at 11:25.
    i have got too much hardware,it would only hurt your eyes to look at it here

  7. #117
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    Im planning to resolder DB15 connector on a 1084s-p1 as it has come loose. What is the safest tool and best ground connection to discharge monitor? Photos and link to tools please

  8. #118
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    Screwdriver with good insulation and a copper wire connecting it to a ground point - I use the ground pin on the mains in my office. Just do this and you'll be fine:

    Last edited by keropi; 9th May 2017 at 22:00.
    Aacheron and slk486 are my heroes
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  9. #119
    Only Amiga..... fordav1's Avatar
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    that pic is hilarious!! 20000 volts could come up the screwdriver and to his hand. looks like he's touching the metal shaft of the screwdriver anyway so he can kiss his a$$ goodbye

    you don't need to remove the chassis to re-solder the DB15. It's accessible with the cover off so just re-solder the pins. I've done that a few times, works well.
    Last edited by fordav1; 17th July 2017 at 00:47.
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  10. #120

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    Probably not as stupid as poking with the pair of pliers first - when you can easily shove a flat head screwdriver under the suction cup.
    Clamp on screwdriver looks like it can flip off at any time - that would be really bad...

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