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Thread: Capacitors replacement on A600/1200

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    Default Capacitors replacement on A600/1200

    Since this topic is often mentioned but nobody make a thread, let's start one here!

    Let's start from the beginning, opening the A600 (the A1200 is very easy to open):

    Have attention when opening the A600 case: the plastic holders are very small and opening the case is a bit counter-intuitive. See ahead.

    To open the case, first unscrew the five Phillips screws (the two from the floppy drive you can unscrew after opening the case).

    Then use some firm plastic to force the laterals a bit (a credit card or a guitar vane, for example). Images courtesy of Victor Trucco.


    After that, slide the upper part of the case to the back until both halfs are separated.

    Only then remove the LED connector from mobo and open the case.

    First use a thin noose-pliers to squeeze the capacitor, then turn it 180. This will snaps the "legs" out and the capacitor itself will detach from the mobo.


    Using the same pliers remove the plastic black pad. Finally a bit of fresh solder and a soldering pump (along with a good fine tip soldering iron) remove the leftover Legs and old solder.

    After removing every electrolytic capacitor from the board, wash it with IPA (Iso Alcohol) to remove/neutralize the capacitor residues that may get leaked.

    After all those steps you are ready for re-soldering new capacitors for the board.

    The buy list is:
    Code:
    2 pieces 1000μF x 10V
    2 pieces 470μF x 16V
    4 pieces 100μF x 6.3V
    5 pieces 22μF x 25V
    4 pieces 10μF x 35V
    2 pieces 47μF x 16V
    Use this "map" for replacing it (site is in Portuguese, but the pictures are pretty universal).



    BTW: never wiggle the capacitors out! You might lift a trace and then the repair will be much more time-consuming.

    The A1200 have the same capacitors and capacitor's code of the A600.
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    Very brave

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    Nice guide man.

    As said before, for me the electrolytic caps are way easier to remove (desolder) considering the smds.

    I've actually managed to replace the 4 ones (2x1000μF x 10V
    and 2x470μF x 16V) as per your guide, but that wasn't the case apparently....

    Probably an smd (or more) is dead for which I cannot do the above job...
    The poor (white) A600 still lying dead on the desk...
    Last edited by ndial; 11th April 2012 at 11:49.
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    As I said, the major cause of issues on A600/1200 and A4000 models are the pesky SMD capacitors.

    They leak, bulge and have their capacity reduced through the years. That and the fact C= used bad quality units result in the problems all users are experiencing today.

    Crush the SMD capacitor with a nose-pliers and then rotate it horizontally (rotating the thing) until it detach from the board. Then pick the black pad from board.

    You will see only the leftover of the leads still soldered on the board, and those are dead easy to remove using an ordinary soldering iron and a solder pump.
    David Bradley made Ctrl+Alt+Del, Gates turn it mandatory
    16 Amigas at home :D
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    1 VIC-20 :smile:
    8 PC (argh) :thumbsdown: at least one is an AROS/Amithlon unit

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    Exclamation Be very careful when using this method.

    Personally, I do not recommend the crushing method of cap removal. It would be very easy for a novice to do a lot of damage to their board.

    It's much better to use hot air, or even a dual tip soldering iron.
    I've completed this job many times successfully using my hot air station, it is quite simple, with the right kit.

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    I used this method myself lots of times without a single pad lifted at all.

    I use to use two soldering irons (as dual-tips are impossible to find in my country) with good results, but I know most people will not have a pair of soldering irons at home, nor the ability to use them at the same time.

    Simply crushing the up part of the capacitor will not stress the tracks at all, only the capacitors legs with break, leaving the plastic plate and some pieces of the old legs, which is easy to sack from board.

    Remember most people does not have a hot air rework station, either

    __________________________________________

    As a final notice, remember to ROTATE THE CAPACITOR IN PLACE, without wiggling it nor lifting it from board, crushing it carefully to not stress the motherboard.

    If done right, only a piece of the legs will remain on the board, plus the plastic pads.

    If you are unsure of what you are doing, please start with an old, broken pc card or other SMD-equipped
    BROKEN card (dead DVD units comes to my mind) until you get the grip.

    If you damage a dead board is no problem.

    Please don't do this method if you are not confident with the described technique.
    David Bradley made Ctrl+Alt+Del, Gates turn it mandatory
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    3x C= 64 :smile:
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    Hi,
    Is there any list and map for capacitors on A1200 rev 2B?

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    Quote Originally Posted by r0jaws View Post
    Personally, I do not recommend the crushing method of cap removal. It would be very easy for a novice to do a lot of damage to their board.

    It's much better to use hot air, or even a dual tip soldering iron.
    I've completed this job many times successfully using my hot air station, it is quite simple, with the right kit.
    Just do it gentle. If you are not sure - DO NOT DO IT AT ALL!

    Actually i tired this way first time and it was not that hard, just you have to understand what are you doing.

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    It took weeks of procrastination before I was able to mod the mouse adapter (grrr!). Just thinking about replacing the caps in my A1200 makes me break out in a sweat!

    My gas soldering iron has a rather large hot-knife attachment, which could make contact with both pads at the same time. Sound safe?

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    Looks safer than twist the can. It is a fork-style tip?
    David Bradley made Ctrl+Alt+Del, Gates turn it mandatory
    16 Amigas at home :D
    3x C= 64 :smile:
    1 VIC-20 :smile:
    8 PC (argh) :thumbsdown: at least one is an AROS/Amithlon unit

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