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Thread: A Retrobrite and Plastikote Experiment (Amiga 4000)

  1. #31
    Amibayer! sir_beaker's Avatar
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    I'd start worrying if I was you, the ST I did 2 years ago is turning and olive shade of green Still, looks better than the brown it originally was
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    Aysel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed.D View Post
    Aysel, what is the actual colour? I always remember A4000's as being a very pale ivory-grey kind of colour.
    Im not sure mate... I have a keyboard which is completely origional, never yellowed and my friend who works at a bodyshop just used a gadget he has to read the colour, this gave him a code and he ordered the paint mixed to that spec, he used a plastic primer, painted then a really nice matt lacquer you honestly cant tell its painted and will last forever.
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  3. #33
    edd_jedi's Avatar
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    As promised, here's the results a year after retrobrighting. To recap, I treated the main fascia and the lower drive cover, but covered the drive cover in Plastikote to cut off the oxygen. Well, see for yourself:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Compared to the non-yellow 'control piece' on the left, they have both yellowed again at exactly the same rate. Only now, I can't retrobright the driver cover again as it's sealed

    So my advice based on experience is ignore this below thread, it's simply not true:

    http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php...on-here-s-why/
    Amiga 4000D - Cyberstorm MKII 060 - Commodore 1940 Monitor
    http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?38402-My-Amiga-4000-Project

  4. #34
    Half-Saint's Avatar
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    Either your white balance is off or I'm blind but I can't see any yellowing in the pictures
    My main rig is a 386DX-40

  5. #35
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    Very educational information. I guess this is why we see folks asking to buy covers and shells.

    - - - Updated - - -

    If UV light is the enemy, would it make more sense to get some clear UV tint and put it on the windows where the system is kept?

    http://northamerica.llumar.com/choos...r-window-films
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  6. #36
    edd_jedi's Avatar
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    This shows the difference better, compare to my keyboard and especially keys.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails amiga.jpg  
    Amiga 4000D - Cyberstorm MKII 060 - Commodore 1940 Monitor
    http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?38402-My-Amiga-4000-Project

  7. #37
    Vyncynt's Avatar
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    Can really see a difference now
    [SIZE=1][COLOR=Blue]C= Amiga:[/COLOR] A1200 CSA Twelve Gauge 68030@50 MHz 68882 @ 50 MHz, 16 MB, 4 GB CF4 | A1200 stock | A2000 3 MB
    [SIZE=1][COLOR=Blue]Atari:[/COLOR] 800XL, 1050 "Duplicator" drive
    [SIZE=1][SIZE=1][COLOR=Blue]Mac:[/COLOR] Power Mac G4 [/SIZE][/SIZE]
    [/SIZE][/SIZE]

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  9. #39
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    So it is just to forget this method on my yellow 4000
    But when I think that I go for painting in a matt white color, it is 100 times better than a yellow amiga if you ask me.


    can be the plastic react to coloring too
    someone who has a 3D printer?
    hm
    Last edited by paalrosen; 23rd December 2015 at 11:58.
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  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by paalrosen View Post
    someone who has a 3D printer?
    That's the way forward, manufacture new fascias. The problem is it's not cost effective. They're too big to 3D print, and making injection moulds costs a fortune, as per the recent A1200 case campaign. I think you could probably sell 50-100 A4000 fascias at say £50 each, but that's only £5000. It would cost far more than that to make them. Hopefully one day 3D printers improve in both quality and size.
    Amiga 4000D - Cyberstorm MKII 060 - Commodore 1940 Monitor
    http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?38402-My-Amiga-4000-Project

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