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Thread: Zorrocard inserted upside-down in zorroslot

  1. #21
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    @ Zetr0

    To me, 470 would be 470 Ohms (470R), as it would be denoted on a circuit diagram (i.e. 47, 470, 4K7, 47K, 470K etc.).

    I must admit to not being 100% conversant with how SMDs are marked up with resistances, capacitances etc. A 47 Ohm resistor would Shirley be marked just 47 or 47R, wouldn't it?

    @ drbrain

    It also appears that Matthias Munch has a site where the Repulse cards are sold and the site's still active. I've contacted Matthias via the site and asked for the part code information for diode D3 or for the contact details for Stefan Sommerfeld of AlienDesign, in order that we can get the data for diode D3.
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    Ya' Like it Retr0? VIP Zetr0's Avatar
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    @Merly

    yeah SMD resistors have a mind numbing method to know what they are.

    a three figure (number) SMD resistor is labeld like this -

    [value][value][number of zeros]

    so a 470 is

    47 with 0 zeros = 47 Ohm

    here an SMD resitor coding scheme

    by taking this a litte further forward

    471 = 47 + 1 Zeros = 470 Ohm
    472 = 47 + 2 Zeros = 4700 Ohm or 4K7(some SMD resistors are labled 4K7)

    For Larger and small caps there is yet another naming scheme

    K = 1000
    M = 1Million
    R = Decimal Place.

    so a resitors named

    2K2 = 2200
    4K7 = 4700
    1M8 = 1800000
    4R2 = 4.2

    heres another bit of help in resistor naming

    I wont get into E12 and E24 ranges of resistors as these are just groups of prefered (commonly used) components - the above should help in any naming scheme.

    Great move on hitting up Mattias and Stefan - hope they can help with that component.


    @rkauer

    the resistor is only 47 Ohms, thus +12volts and -12volts would be enough to toast them
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    24V versus 47Ohm : 12.2W of powah versus 0.1 W of dissipation... 12X the maximum acceptable heat...

    Yup, it will boom...
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    I've ordered some SMD resistors from that other *bay..

    Now that diode (D3) would be nice to get some details about... it kinda came loose when i tried to clean the card.. hehe
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    Removed the resistors and diode today...
    One of the resistors measures 81 ohm and the other one 99 ohm.. I guess they can show wired values when toasted.

    Took a new picture... seems like there's been some serious heat going on as R6 burnt a little hole in the PCB (the lacquer is gone)
    All the tracks seems ok when measuring with a multimeter, a little burnt but ok

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    Some of these cards really should have had some warning on them saying "THIS WAY UP" for n00bs. Couldnt have been that hard really.

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    @drbrain

    WOW!!! I was suspecting some major pad damage!

    seems that this card got lucky in that respect - although it nearly had R6's top pad though.

    lets hope we can sus-out that Diode vaule, I spent a good 40 minutes last night and I cannot make out enough detail to conclusively lock-in the item.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tokyoracer View Post
    Some of these cards really should have had some warning on them saying "THIS WAY UP" for n00bs. Couldnt have been that hard really.
    Yeah... all cards should have that marking or something like "This side facing back ->". (AFAIK in A2000 the cards don't face up as they're vertical)

    ---------- Post added at 19:53 ---------- Previous post was at 19:49 ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Zetr0 View Post
    @drbrain

    WOW!!! I was suspecting some major pad damage!

    seems that this card got lucky in that respect - although it nearly had R6's top pad though.

    lets hope we can sus-out that Diode vaule, I spent a good 40 minutes last night and I cannot make out enough detail to conclusively lock-in the item.
    Actually the bottom pad on R6 is in worse shape as it almost came of with the resistor.

    I've also done some searching on the diode but can't find anything useful... it's a jungle with those markings and values. I guess the only way to be sure would be to get a hand on the schematics
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    Well, I have bad news and I have (almost) good news....

    Bad news: Matthias Munch (DjBase) couldn't help us as he sold his last Repulse card ages ago.

    So... some lateral thinking and mucho Googling over lunch later, I discovered that Stefan Sommerfeld approached Jens Schoenfeld to get the Repulse cards manufactured. Based on this, I e-mailed Jens as below and here's what I got back:-

    Hi, one of our members is trying to repair a Repulse sound card and he needs to know the value of diode D3 on the circuit board. The diode is marked B4Z - we need to know what type of diode this is. As you manufactured the card for Stefan Sommerfeld of Alien Design, can you help us?

    You're right that the initial plan was that I manufacture the cards, but after all the knowledge was leeched and they got a free Amiga show appearance at my booth, they made their own production and didn't even pay all parts that they got from me. As you know, they disappeared from the market after they sold all their stock, so all the money they earned never made it's way back into the community.

    I haven't read the full thread, just the first post. The upside-down protection circuit is indeed mine (well, almost, they seem to have used a cheap diode), so what you can do is remove the diode, replace the two 47 ohms resistors and pray that going cheap on the diode didn't kill the Xilinx. The card works without the diode, but it doesn't work without the resistors. The diode only comes into place when the card is inserted the wrong way, and grounds the wrong voltage, sending way too much current through the resistors, which are supposed to burn as fast as possible (acting like a fuse).

    The known-good protection circuit uses two schottky-diodes and a resistor that burns a lot faster (two BAS85 diodes, so forward voltage drop isn't too big in case they need to kick in). The resistors on the Repulse seem to have lasted a few seconds, which may have been enough to kill the Xilinx FPGA. Looks like the Repulse people outsmarted themselves

    ciao,
    --
    Jens Schönfeld

    Now, that might not be a 100% result, but it at least takes us in the right direction.... it's also possibly bad news, since the Xilinx may have been burned out. That reply is a bit of a rollercoaster.

    At this point, I'm going to hand over to TC and Zetr0 along with our other gurus on here, to see if we can collectively decipher what the diode type might have been, based on Jens' reply. (Maybe something like a BZX85-C24 might work....?)

    As a last resort, replacing the resistors may get it going again....

    Frankly, I am amazed that he replied to me at all...that's a result in itself....
    The future's so Retr0bright, I gotta wear shades.....

    As rkauer said:-
    "Retro computers seems like an orgasm: it is always better to have a real one than fake it".

  10. #30
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    Wow... that's at least some bright light in the dark tunnel... thanks for taking the time!!!

    So replacing the resistors, and pray to god they burnt fast enough to save the xilinx, would be enough. No need to get a diode as I have no plans on putting it upside-down again

    One problem though... I'm not putting that card in my A4k before I know for sure that something nasty won't happen. I bought a A500 Zorro-adapter from the guy selling them here on AmiBay to test the card in... oh.. also need to find an A500
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