When Retr0bright isn't enough...

chiark

AmiNerd
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I've had success with retr0bright, but yellowing has come back. After seeing Bootsie's success with specialist spray paint, I thought I'd give it a try. It's fair to say I'm pleased :D

Before and after:
befaft.png


As you might be able to tell from the before, the front right in particular was brown not just yellow, and the top went from brown to yellow...

More details here: http://www.binarydevotion.com/?p=241 :)

This colour code seems great for the 500 and 1000: the 600, 1200 and 4000 are a lighter colour to start with. I'm looking to see if I can find a match...
 
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Looks very nice, but what is the color code you used for the A500? I don't see that mentioned anywhere.
 
Oops, it's on there now - but it's CM105/80 Dynamics Cream Matt!
The thing that surprised me is how well it matches the unfaded colour: it's almost impossible to tell where I've sprayed inside other than the slight lack of sheen.
 
Not sure how one would go about getting some of this in Denmark.. Can't find any stores that carry it, but perhaps some professional paint shops could acquire it.
 
Not sure either - I'll ask my contact there. (I have asked whether he's happy for lots of small orders if I post his contact details - I've not yet heard back)
Worst comes to the worst I can get some and ship it to you. It might be classified as hazardous but I'll look into it.
 
Yeah, it was the hazardous part that I was thinking about. Not all carriers allows the shipping of chemicals, at least not without an extra fee which will end up making it quite expensive.

How many A500 cases do you think you can get from each can? I guess with the very thin layers you are using, it should last for quite a few.
 
Not a clue. I ordered 3 cans, and I think it'll be some time before I'm through them...
 
Looks nice.

I do have a suggestion.

In place of spray paint try plasti dip. plasti dip can be removed by peeling it off. It's commonly used to change the color of cars and wheels here in the states. It lasts about a year or two on a daily driven car, even with all the salt here in Ohio.
It would last a very long time on a computer part. Anther good thing about plastic dip is that it almost impossible to screw up and can be spayed on just about anything without priming or prepping. Just clean the part and spay it.

I even seen a few plasti dip motherboards and video cards.
http://www.overclock.net/forum/297-...2184-league-computer-hardware-painters-6.html
 
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That really does look nice I use a spectrometer for photography and is able to create pantones when I have time I will give my 500 pride and joy a scan and see what it comes up with.

edit: Captured :)

amigpicol.jpg
 
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Thanks for the info. This is most interesting indeed!

I've been Retr0briting stuff for a long time simply because it's (nearly) always given much better results than any painting method I've tried, and in spite of the faff has taken far less (careful) preparation than painting needs. There are of course down sides, not least of which being the occasional mottling disaster no matter how careful you are.

The simple to apply, long-lasting, and appropriate looking finish this product seems to give would certainly be very welcome. Especially for those of us who rarely see the sun.
 
Those results appear quite good. I've never been able to bring myself to paint any of my plastic cases. I've only tried to Retr0brite once and it was a complete failure. I am interested to see the results of a Plasti Dip if anyone tries that solution.

If any of you A3000D lovers have a scraped-up or rusted case, I've found that Pantone 413 U is what was used by Commodore.
 
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I am interested to see the results of a Plasti Dip if anyone tries that solution.

I done both Plasti Dip and truck bed liner on newer computers. Sorry but I do not have any photos. The systems are long gone.
Plasti Dip gives the parts a slightly softer feel and keeps the bumpy texture witch paint can dull a little. It can gum up in tight air vent so be warned. If your painting a air vent like that on the Amiga in the OP go very light on the coats.


Truck bed liner on the other hand well... its deferent. I had a newish cooler master case I sprayed with beige bed liner. It went well with the more indusial look of the case. But I would not recommend it.
 
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How many A500 cases do you think you can get from each can? I guess with the very thin layers you are using, it should last for quite a few.

You should get approximately 2 A500 cases per can. That’s 2 coats minimum for proper coverage. Going thin coats should only be reserved as an initial coat, let it flash(get tacky), then go for a solid 2nd coat. Then if it looks good, then you can hit it with one coat of clear(whether you want satin or semi or full gloss) to seal it for durability. Lay your case down on a table for best flow of the paint.
The key is a good plastic primer and prep. Grab a scotch pad scuff the case down, wipe clean with tack cloth then use the primer.
Any automotive paint supplier should be able to make spray cans colour matched to what you want. That should be around the world.

Practice on some scrap first to get a technic happening with the spraying.

I’m about to either spray or plastidip a case... maybe plastic dip might be the way to go for ease.


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Going thin coats should only be reserved as an initial coat, let it flash(get tacky), then go for a solid 2nd coat. Then if it looks good, then you can hit it with one coat of clear(whether you want satin or semi or full gloss) to seal it for durability. Lay your case down on a table for best flow of the paint.
The key is a good plastic primer and prep. Grab a scotch pad scuff the case down, wipe clean with tack cloth then use the primer.
Any automotive paint supplier should be able to make spray cans colour matched to what you want. That should be around the world.

Did you read the link?
What you write is how one would normally go about spray painting anything, but the whole point here is that this is a different kind of paint that does not need a primer or having to scuff down the case - only a proper clean. Also, it is much better at preserving the texture of the surface than a regular coat of paint would which tells me that the total thickness of the coat is very thin. Scuffing down the surface would also take away some of the texture.
 
When Retr0bright isn't enough...

Yes it was only a few tips from experience, ?

Scuffing the surface with a scratch pad doesn’t take anything from texture of the plastic case because it’s like using 1200 grit,

The case does look amazing


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Cheers all.

I must admit I don't like the idea of painting as it seems a little permanent, but I think this paint balances between restoration and preservation nicely.

I've painted stuff in the past with car paint and the results have always looked good, but definitely not like the finish and texture of the original.

A light scuffing with nothing stronger than a plastic scouring pad will help adhesion and not affect the texture. I am tempted to try a satin lacquer on it as the finish is very matt... I'll do a little more investigating.

RuneRider - thanks for the pantone reference for the 3k. Know any more ?
 
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