Retr0bright Support Thread

That's what happens when you have oily residues on the surface of the plastic.

That's why the vanish products work so well, the detergent in them cleans the surface for you.
 
Retr0bright Support Thread

Tbh I'm not sure, it's prolly worth trying a good scrub with detergent and then trying again.

The other option is to get some vanish crystal white and use that as it has a small amount of bleach in it.
 
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That's what happens when you have oily residues on the surface of the plastic.

That's why the vanish products work so well, the detergent in them cleans the surface for you.

I wish it were that simple. The case was cleaned very well prior and had been cleaned before. I did another test and this time did not cover it with plastic-wrap film. The differences began to disappear but the gell dries out.

I wonder if the wrap I used is causing this. The mouse button is actually white in places so simply removing they yellow is not what happened, something else is going on here.
Look at the plastic on the back where there was no yellowing and at the front where is appears to be bleached. The plastic wrap touched the front.

P1170383.JPGP1170384.JPG
 
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Interesting, I don't plastic wrap mine, vanish is so cheap ($16 for 2ltr) that you don't need to be conservative with it, just brush more on every half hour.
 
Interesting, I don't plastic wrap mine, vanish is so cheap ($16 for 2ltr) that you don't need to be conservative with it, just brush more on every half hour.


I think I'll try this as my go forward method. I'll do some more testing before using it on any of my prized machines though. I just wish that I didn't live in such a dry place. I may have to apply it every thirty minutes. Can't get Vanish products here but I used them when I lived in Wangaratta six months ago.
 
Hi, Any ideas if it's possible to remove the front label (the one with the logo) of the 1541 drive?
I ask this because I want to retrobright the cases and I don't want to damage the label.
I've retrobrighted an A500 case before with 80% creamy hair peroxide and it did work great.

Here's my very yellowed 1541 drive compared to a not yellowd one:
IMG_2668.jpgIMG_2670.jpg
 
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Hi, i have a question, becouse 2 month after retrobright C64 come back yelllow(He was in a dark place (in the closet), in original box),
somewhere im read that after retr0bright it is good to use a lacquer then white color is for years, but now i cant find info about that what lacquer
is good for that. If somebody have info about that please share this information.

Thanks
 
Laquer won't help - read back in this thread as some people have tested it and reported that things still go back to yellow after a while. Only difference is that if you painted it you cannot retrobright again. My recommendation it to either retrobright it again (it should not return to full yellowing quickly), paint it if you want it to stay white, or accept the yellowing..
 
Here is a keyboard that I thought was shot because of function key stickers.
But amazingly in an afternoon it look brand new.

I use a 15% liquid h2o2 solution, its not cheap at $15 a gallon (well $36 for a gallon of 34%). But it can be used many times over.
Done A3000 face plate, half a dozen mouse, another keyboard and soon an entire A1000.

Only downside, even diluted to 15% hydrogen peroxide is very, very painful.

DSC08200.JPGDSC08210.JPG

note: the front of the keyboard was always facing away from the sunlight during its h2o2 bath.

My understanding is that the solution only need to be activated to form hydroxyl radicals
 
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I used the Salon Care 40 creme that many have suggested and even though it worked on the keyboard fairly well last month this is what it did to the case and mouse today after only two hours.

Anyone else ever see this?



View attachment 94193

Have you resolved the issue or it is ireversible? I was also using 12% creme peroxide with fairly good results on my Amiga 500 case and keyboard. Few hardly noticeable whiter spots remained however but it is really hard to see it.
 
I use a Salon Care 40 creme as well and have good results. Then today I retrobrited 2 monitor cases and got the dreaded swirl effect. I can't understand why -- we have weak Northern sun in Seattle, the cases were well cleaned first then well wrapped in plastic, but they developed strong swirls. Totally bummed!

The weird thing, is the keyboard and Amiga case next to it came out great using exact same technique. :blink:

Anyway to get rid of the swirl besides sand or paint?

I used the Salon Care 40 creme that many have suggested and even though it worked on the keyboard fairly well last month this is what it did to the case and mouse today after only two hours.

Anyone else ever see this?



View attachment 94193

Have you resolved the issue or it is ireversible? I was also using 12% creme peroxide with fairly good results on my Amiga 500 case and keyboard. Few hardly noticeable whiter spots remained however but it is really hard to see it.
 
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I used Salon Care 40 creme on this A500 case (which was only mildly yellowed to begin with), never letting it dry out, no saran wrap or anything, under blacklights for a few hours, it looks terrible: http://i.imgur.com/bE3Y3ER.jpg

Is there any to fix this or is my case now permanently damaged?

Edit: I should note that it was not apparent it was turning out like this when I was periodically checking on it. It looked perfectly fine even when I washed it off while it was wet. Once I dried it the damage became apparent. So I guess a warning, don't trust how it looks from just wiping off some creme, wash it completely and dry it.
 
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Is there any to fix this or is my case now permanently damaged?

Unfortunately I think that is permanently damaged. :( I have an A500+ with the same marbled look, and it will be subject to being painted black at some point..
 
That's extremely frustrating. In the US A500s are extremely hard to come by and this is a PAL model I imported a long time ago. It didn't even look that bad and I feel really stupid for trying to improve it now. To anyone reading please be careful with this stuff, even if you're meticulous about it you can ruin hardware that's no longer being made and currently sells for insane prices. People will buy a yellowed machine but nobody will buy one that's obviously been damaged by chemicals
 
I used Salon Care 40 creme on this A500 case (which was only mildly yellowed to begin with), never letting it dry out, no saran wrap or anything, under blacklights for a few hours, it looks terrible: http://i.imgur.com/bE3Y3ER.jpg

Is there any to fix this or is my case now permanently damaged?

Edit: I should note that it was not apparent it was turning out like this when I was periodically checking on it. It looked perfectly fine even when I washed it off while it was wet. Once I dried it the damage became apparent. So I guess a warning, don't trust how it looks from just wiping off some creme, wash it completely and dry it.

My theory is that it's caused by oils or nicotine etc on the surface of the plastic, it's one reason I use the Vanish products as they have detergents which will dissolve any substances you missed during the cleaning process (i use the dishwasher on low heat and eco mode).
 
I use Clairol Pure White 40, and pre-clean the surfaces with baby wipes and then dry it off with a microfiber cloth before retrobriting.

I got the swirl look once on a case that was very yellow. It ended up looking like swiss cheese or something with some parts white and some yellow. I rinsed the pieces, cleaned them again with baby wipes and dried, and re-applied retrobrite to both the surface and to the saran wrap and put it back in the sun. After another few hours, everything cleared up just fine.
 
My theory is that it's caused by oils or nicotine etc on the surface of the plastic, it's one reason I use the Vanish products as they have detergents which will dissolve any substances you missed during the cleaning process (i use the dishwasher on low heat and eco mode).

I suspect you are correct. Even after cleaning a monitor case and retrobriting it, i decided to soak it in vinegar and low and behold, i got more yellowy gunk off of it. some of the yellow was clearly additional nicotine or some other dirt layered on the plastic.
 
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I removed the yellowing of a TO8.

I used my alltime favourite, a german mould remover called "Mellerud Schimmelentferner Aktivgel". This is the version with hydrogen peroxide.

TO8 before:

to8-2svud8.jpg


The TO8 after:

to8-32mu1n.jpg


to8-4h3u7t.jpg


to8-5xyuvb.jpg


I only sprayed the case parts once (all keys too) so that everything is covered well. After this i placed them in the sun for a couple of hours (the TO8 about 5 hours) and washed off the remaining fluid.

You should note, that there are many different conditions of the plastics and beside of this ... white is not white, grey is not grey and so on ...
 
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My theory is that it's caused by oils or nicotine etc on the surface of the plastic, it's one reason I use the Vanish products as they have detergents which will dissolve any substances you missed during the cleaning process (i use the dishwasher on low heat and eco mode).

I suspect you are correct. Even after cleaning a monitor case and retrobriting it, i decided to soak it in vinegar and low and behold, i got more yellowy gunk off of it. some of the yellow was clearly additional nicotine or some other dirt layered on the plastic.

Probably best to dishwasher and vinegar wash it before retrobriting I reckon ;)
 
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