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CrazyC's Sanitarium

Checkmate 1500 Build (Part 1)

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Well today my Checkmate case arrived! Despite my initial intention to leave it well alone until the weekend as I have lots of work to do, I couldn't resist opening it up and having a go tonight!
Whilst I did read the manual (so I thought) there are a few lessons to learn from today's experience.

1. RTFM from cover to cover. Even if its not for the setup you are doing.
2. Don't overtighten anything........
3. Dont assume anything.
4. Try not to let your excitement get the better of you.

So, how did it go: Well there is the compulsory picture of the present arriving - all very well packed as expected.

I then stripped down my donor a1200, and asked myself whether or not to remove the bottom shield. The picture in the manual shows the shield on but underneath says don't forgot to remove the shield. Hmm. I wasnt sure if it meant the top or bottom shield. Anyway I removed the shield as that is what LGR did in his video. Later I read the section in the manual that explains that the shield should be removed but was left on for the pictures just to save time. As I said, I should have RTFM.

Anyway, so my donor board, along with Indy Mk2 and IDE-Fix express was ready. So now to implant it into the case.
So I added the standoffs, put the motherboard in and replaced the screws. I must have overtightened the second one (although I really wasnt try to have it tight) as the brass standoff sheared. Hmm - I dont think I am getting that out in a hurry but its still supporting the board and it seems secure overall. Again, another lesson to learn and yes the manual does say 'pinch tight only'.
Anyway......At this point I tested it with the old PSU and she still booted. Yay.
Now because I don't want the PCMCIA network card hanging out of the side, I have put two 90 degree connectors in to bring it back into the case, but this means I have to move the power board over. Currently the Baord is therefore only screwed in by one of the three fixing holes, but I have some rubber self adhesive standoffs coming that will hopefully help with that - the connector to the adapter that plus into the motherboard power socket is now a bit stretched but it just about works. I also almost forgot to refit the Blizzard 1230 before fitting the motherboard!
I have picked up a lovely little Silverstone PSU that is damn near silent, but as expected the cable is just not quite long enough tor each the Power Board, so at first I just tested with it outside the case. I subsequently added in an extender I had ordered having read other reviews.
Another issue is the longer floppy cable I had ordered is still not long enough - so back to amigakit I go.
Anyway, all still booting, so added a DVI PCI bracket I had spare, and a PCI CF adapter I had got for this purpose, as well as the SUM USB
And she still boots.
Now I did have an issue with the front LEDs which just would not work for me, despite the fact that plugging in the old LED board did work. I checked, I had the ,little arrow on the correct side on the motherboard. So returned to the manual from scratch. Now the cable was plugged into the LED board itself when the case arrived, and the writing on the plugs was facing up and all looked good, so I hadnt touched it, but reading the manual I began to wonder. And yes, turning the connectors over fixed the LEDs.! So I learned not to make assumptions.

More to come in the next post, but spoiler alert that I am having difficulties with the drive tray. It may well be that I am doing something stupid but I cannot get it to align with my floppy drive.
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Updated 17th October 2020 at 12:12 by CrazyC

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