Amiga 4000 restoration

As some of you know, I've been asking for various parts of Amiga 4000.

This thread will explain why, and document from what I started with to hopefully final result - Completely restored Amiga 4000.

Most of the parts i needed were provided by you, so on these photos they will be seen again.

So here we go.

Presenting two Amigas 4000 in absolutely terrible condition!

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/1.jpg
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/2.jpg
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/3.jpg
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/4.jpg

The reason why they look like they ware pulled out of the garbage is because they actually have been. :ninja:

One of these Amigas I already restored, and she's now on display in Peek and Poke Retro Museum. http://www.peekpoke.hr/en/ The restoration of the other one I will document here.

Good luck with the project :thumbsup:

Wow this looks like a mighty task, good luck with it! it looks very exciting :)

Bathtime!

Case and all boards have taken a bath...
With a rough brush.

Battery had a bad leak so I soaked affected area in lemon acid for a few days.

I don't expect much, but at least it looks much better now. :D

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/5.jpg
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/6.jpg

PSU seems OK, so I'm powering her up for the first time! (
I've put a new battery hoping for the best.)

It's Booooting! Well after CTRL+A+A (It needs IDE FIX...)

But as one could expect damage was done.

- No fast ram
- RTC not working
:(

Good luck fixing the FAST RAM slots! I had a ruined board where the battery spillage simply corroded away ALL SIMM traces!

The board gone to the bin after I salvaged the custom chips and sockets.:banghead:

But since your mobo are still working, all you need is an accelerator (don't count the A3640 as one) with its own memory.

After spending some time with a multimeter I found two broken traces. :thumbsup:
One was just under last sim socket, and the other one under U891.

Out it goes:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/7.jpg
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/8.jpg

I used a special low melting point solder to desolder the chip using standard soldering iron.

Unfortunately trace was beyond repair, and I couldn't place a wire under the chip, or under the board, so I'll use a piece of wire on the visible side of the board. (It doesn't look nice, but it will work.) Repair under sim socked is close to invisible.

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/9.jpg

I also replaced some surrounding caps. (also were in bad condition)

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/10.jpg

Weird thing: Before the fix, I inserted A2000 8MB board just in order to boot the system and see if everything else is working. Amiga reported all 24 MB fast RAM, but system didn't boot because 16MB onboard ram was detected but faulty. I removed the 16MB from the board and tried again. Result was the same. 24 MB was reported even onboard ram was removed. Strange.

A lot of parts I needed already arrived from various sources (80% Amibay sources :thanks:)

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/11.jpg

I'm assambling and powering up the Amiga.

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/12.jpg
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/14.jpg

Fast Ram is working! :p

Sysinfo result is as expected! Quite excited at this moment!:bounceBoingBall:
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/13.jpg

But I noticed more problems:

- RTC changes years, months and minutes, but date is locked at 6th and time is locked at 14. (Seems I'll be spending more time repairing the damage around leaked battery.)

- Audio sucks! One channel is almost completely silent, and there is a lot of white noise and a hum from PSU. (I think It's all due to dry caps, so caps on audio circuit and PSU will have to be replaced.

- PSU cooler is a bit loud
- Keyboard is a bit yellow. (Retr0bright will be employed. :D)
- Mouse needs new switches

But this ruined the excitement:

- 3640 card shows stability issues. (Even after replacing all caps on it.) After 10-20 minutes (when it heats up I guess) Amiga goes into reset loop.
This might be a tricky one. I'll try to resolder chips near caps leak, but It's a long shot and I'm open to suggestions. Hm... could it be due to noise form PSU? :huh:
68030 card works fine and stable.

BTW. When I got it, this A3640 was overclocked to 33.3MHZ. I Hope 68040 was not damaged by this. I have another 68040 but it seems completely dead, and can not test it. Oscilloscope would come in hendy right now, but I don't have one. Will try freeze spray to pinpoint source of instability.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rkauer

Good luck fixing the FAST RAM slots! I had a ruined board where the battery spillage simply corroded away ALL SIMM traces!

The board gone to the bin after I salvaged the custom chips and sockets.:banghead:

But since your mobo are still working, all you need is an accelerator (don't count the A3640 as one) with its own memory.

---

One trace under the last sim slot was damaged, but It was a piece of cake to remove the slot, fix the trace and resolder it. (Forgot to mention this.) The slots and the rest of the traces seem to be in good shape.

Yeees... Accelerator like PPC Cyberstorm would fit in just nice. :D
There were a few on the evilbay not a while ago, but since my wife will be ruining my finances over the holidays, I can not compete with her right now. :D

@Elerion,

Very nice job, congratulations!:thumbsup:
I will watch your thread very closely.

This thread is hardcore hardware pr0n, just how I like it :lol:

Very nice man! Can't wait to see more :) :thumbsup:

It's time to replace all caps.

Their condition is borderline. Not much spill, but still there is some.

Here is the picture of audio circuit before:
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/14a.JPG:

and after:
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/17.jpg

Yes I noticed one cap was reversed. I've fixed it after taking the shots. :-)

Replacing caps takes hours... a lot of patience... and a lot of flux as well:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/15.JPG
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/16.JPG

Daughterboard got new ones too: :)

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/18.jpg

Replacing all the caps did not make a difference regarding problems with audio, RTC or A3640 on this Amiga, but it had to be done.

---------- Post added at 00:33 ---------- Previous post was at 00:09 ----------

In order to fix audio and processor problems, first thing I need is a good PSU.

PSU is not that bad. Well, maybe a bit too loud.

Before:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/19.jpg

Afrer replacing all caps and a fan with silent 1000RPM one:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/20.jpg

As for some before and after voltage measurements under full load, they are like this:

Voltage BEFORE:
5 - 4,99 VDC
12 - 11,92 VDC
-12 - -12,15 VDC

Voltage AFTER:
5 - 4,98 VDC
12 - 11,97 VDC
-12 - 12,15 VDC

Not much change you would say. True, but next measurement is important.

AC Component BEFORE: (lower is better)
5 - 0,087 VAC
12 - 0,209 VAC
-12 - 0,083 VAC

AC Component AFTER: (lower is better)
5 - 0,033 VAC
12 - 0,115 VAC
-12 - 0,032 VAC

This is quite good for computer PSU. And definite improvement over how it was before.

I've closed the Amiga and she is almost completely silent (CF instead of HD and great cooling fan)

---------- Post added at 00:53 ---------- Previous post was at 00:33 ----------

Another one smal fix today.

I got a very nice mouse, but buttons had to be pressed realy hard to produce a click.

Mouse has two screws under the commodore label.
To remove the label without breaking it i used my wife's hair fan:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/22.jpg
http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/23.jpg

Selling two used microswitches. 0€+Postage: :D

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/24.jpg

Replaced with new ones:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/25.jpg

Afer reasambling, mouse looks and works like new.

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/26.jpg


On the next post, things will get more interesting.

Remained to be done:
- Audio circuit repair
- RTC circuit repair
- A3640 repair

Best regards,
Elerion

---------- Post added at 01:34 ---------- Previous post was at 00:53 ----------

I was just enyoing some demos on this Amiga, when completely unprovoked, one of the caps on EGS Spectrum just exploded, and burned with a flash and a lot of smoke.

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/27.jpg

I think cap is the only thing that got wasted. But I'll see tomorow. Now I'm off... :tired:

Pretty common on the GVP 28/24, replace the capacitor (checking the polarity) and all will be fine.

Awesome stuff! Takes a whole lot o' patience to treat them ladies well! :thumbsup:

Sound is working perfectly now.

I started by measuring signals on the operational amplifier LF347.
All signals were fine but one. Left audio out signal from Paula chip.

First suspect was a 47nF cap so I pulled it out (and it's right channel brother) and replaced them with fresh ones:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/30.jpg

No result. Strange. This cap was only passive componet that if faulty could produce this kind of problem. Next suspect was Paula chip.

I was just about to pull her out, but before that i decided to check the trace between her and operational amp. Problem was here. Trace was broken. God damn via next to leeked cap again. I fixed it just by cleaning it, inserting a small piece of wire, and filling it up with solder.

Damage from leaked caps doesn't look as bad as damage from leaked battery, but creates the same (if not greater) problems.


---------- Post added at 23:12 ---------- Previous post was at 22:19 ----------

As you remember from earlier posts, my A3640 board is unstable. After few minutes of operation it chrashes the system and brigns Amiga to a reset loop.

There are two approaches to fixing this problem:

1) Long time spent with digiltal analyser or oscilloscope
2) Blind luck

Since i don't have tools to go with option 1, after careful consideration i decided to go with number two. :)

I'm using freezing spray to find component that's faulty. In theory if chip is producing problems when it gets warmed up, cooling it will return the board to stable operation.

So I waited until the board started to reset the Amiga and started freezing the chips one by one.

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/32.jpg

After a few minutes of trying, I found the chip that reacted to cold weather. It was seventh of nine 74FCT543 chips on this board. :roll: (Ok I am a Trekkie. How did you guess?)

I ordered a few replecement chips, but while I wait, let's pull out this one:

Desoldering in 5 simple steps:

1. Apply Flux:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/33.jpg

2. Apply low melting point solder:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/34.jpg

3. Pull the chip out

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/35.jpg

4. Remove the solder from the pads

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/36.jpg

5. Clean up with 2-propanol

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/37.jpg

And there. Place ready for a new chip:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/38.jpg

I'm near the finish line now. (Just one hill to climb.) :D

Amiga got one old but quite nice Plextor DVD RW.

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/39.jpg

Black detail on the drive door looks quite cool. :) Colour is not 100% match, but it's not that bad.

I'm still missing 3,5" front cover. :(
If you can help providing one, or have an idea on how to recreate one, please do.

I came across a similar situation:

http://koti.mbnet.fi/retro/photos/floppy_drive.jpg

This looked pretty silly, dunno what the previous owner was thinking, but I then solved it this way:

http://koti.mbnet.fi/retro/photos/drive_bay_cover.jpg

This is simply a piece cut out of some spare bay cover panel. I first did a rough cut with a saw, then carved it into the right shape. You could mount such a piece in several ways, like a couple of drops of hot glue the inside or whatever; I used two little L-brackets bent out of sheet metal and double sided sticky tape to mount the piece on top of the floppy drive.

If you want to have the drive in the top position, you should of course cut some grooves in the plate to match the rest of the front panel... but that may be hard to do cleanly without suitable machines.

Hopefully that gives at least some ideas :)

I made a front CF (now changed setup in all 4000, now back CF ports) and didn't want to cut out original cover. I simply took the cover of an CD tray, it fitted perfectly in height, just cut the length and result was OK! Then I put a CF card hole. Now I got 2 drives and a back-CF port (where zorro slot covers are).

EDIT:
@ ajk:
First idea is horrible. Why not take a smaller second drive (or first drive ;) ). OK, you can built it back with a CD drive and 2 normal height disk Drives. Second idea similar as I said, but floppy should be on TOP as it was delivered. But seems color matching in your A4000 ;) mine are perfect white, so I didn't had that problem.

gehtjanx

Well first idea is not mine, that's just how it was when I received the machine :)

The colour doesn't match so well, but that's beside the point, as you can obviously just find a similar shade panel to use. I hadn't yet retrobrighted the front bezel when I took those photos.

It's easy enough to make the grooves if you want to have the drive on the top, you just need to find a milling machine and a suitably sized bit (2.5mm was it? can't measure just now).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ajk

Well first idea is not mine, that's just how it was when I received the machine :)

---

Still it made me LOL. :lol:

two ideas...

1.) Make a ceramics mold against front panel groves, and melt some plastic into it.

2.) Cut it from thermoplastic board.

...but color will not match.... unless I find donor Amiga and melt or cut original Amiga plastic...

Now why did I throw away that broken A600 case... :banghead:

Great thread, really interesting to see that come together. I'm a bit envious of your electronics diagnostic skills!


Nice work.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by www.retroconsolepics.com

Great thread, really interesting to see that come together. I'm a bit envious of your electronics diagnostic skills!

Nice work.

---

Thanx.
I'll take a vecation next week, and have more time to complete the work.

BTW I spent some time drooling over your great photos of old computers. Since you are a photographer, in case you want to know, most photos in this post (the better ones) were taken by my wife.
She was not so happy with the result, because she needs "a different kind of lens for this type of photography". ;)
Anyway they are good enough for me. Thanx honney.

On this board I found two types of damage from leaked battery/caps.

1) Burned via.
2) burned trace very close next to via or a pad. (joints were copper was not protected by either lacquer or solder)

Both types of damage cannot be detected by visual examination (even using strong magnifier glass). You just have to test if each suspect trace is closing the circuit.
When you detect that solder next to a cap is not shiny, you can be sure surrounding copper traces already started to corrode. Then it's just a matter of time before the board starts showing serious problems.

What bothers me the most at this point is the fact that even cleaned and repaired, this board could contain more traces just about to get broken. Kind of “timed bombs”. And that a simply by bending a board or just after a few years’ time these “bombs” will go off.

I just hope I cleaned all the leaked electrolyte good enough.

BTW

Did you know that caps leaking problem is isolated to Taiwanese caps produced before approx. 2007.
The story is that some Taiwanese caps manufacturers have stolen a beta version of electrolyte formula that produced a hydrogen gas within a cap container that will depending on conditions blow up the cap to the point corrosive electrolyte starts leaking.
Japanese caps (that were more expensive at the time) did not produce this problem. They may lose their properties over time, but they are not leaking "time bombs".

So... If you have not replaced caps in your Amigas yet, do it ASAP.
Be sure to use Japanese brands or caps as fresh as you can get.

Because it may already be too late.

From what I read trough the years, they bought some capacitors, extracted the electrolyte from inside and tossed in a gas mass spectrometer, then re-create the formula without taking care of the small particles showed (the stabilizers!).

Well I wish I had more time during the holidays to complete repairs of this Amiga, but most of the time I had was spent in shopping malls, restaurants and other similar expensive places chosen by my wife. :mad:

However, I managed to put aside a few hours to pamper this beautiful Miggy.

Yesterday I repaired burned tantalum cap on EGS card:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/40.JPG

and octal transceiver on A3640 accelerator:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/41.JPG


Both EGS and A3640 are working great. After 4 hours of stress there were no crashes. This 18 years old lady is performing as fine as on the day she left the factory. (Well except for RTC, but I'll fix that soon.) :thumbsup:

While I was examining these pictures, and admiring the quality of Nikkor optics, beside the dust that under magnification looks like dog hair, I noticed nasty looking whitish substance inside the vias of the accelerator board.

You can see that on the picture just right next to transceiver chip.

What's this? Is it corrosion from caps electrolyte spill :wooha:, or just a mix of solder flux and isopropyl alcohol?

Exposed fibre from the board itself, nothing more, nothing less.

A good measure is to pass a copper wire through the hole and solder it both on sides of the board.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rkauer

Exposed fibre from the board itself, nothing more, nothing less.

A good measure is to pass a copper wire through the hole and solder it both on sides of the board.

---

If fibre was exposed to this extent, I don't think the board would be working.

I agree that wiring the holes would be a permanent solution, but there are just too many of them, and they are smaller then they appear on the photos. It would take ages to solder them all.

I’ll take the suggestion and fill those closest to leaking caps (especially close to inverted C107 that was leaking heavily) to prevent future problems.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Elerion

I'm still missing 3,5" front cover. :(
If you can help providing one, or have an idea on how to recreate one, please do.

---

I have one of these if you still need one. PM me with postage details and i will send it to you.
Awesome restoration skillz BTW :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by easypreacher

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Elerion

I'm still missing 3,5" front cover. :(
If you can help providing one, or have an idea on how to recreate one, please do.

---

I have one of these if you still need one. PM me with postage details and i will send it to you.
Awesome restoration skillz BTW :)

---

Fantastic! I love you! PM on the way!

Last stage of refurbishing this board is RTC circuit.

First, I removed all the chips and cleaned up the board under them:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/42.jpg

I spent a few minutes testing traces. I was somewhat disappointed when I found out there are healthy. One would expect most damage from battery leak right here...

Anyway I resoldered the chips and fitted a socket for new Ricoh RTC chip:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/44.jpg

And an ugly green barrel of imminent board destruction got a replacement. A coin battery fitted to holder modified with a diode:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/43.jpg

Works like a charm!

This concludes the repairs to the board.

Time to light up a cigar and celebrate with some fine alcohol.
:pint:

Next year I'll do the cosmetics. Corrosion removing, retr0brighting and fitting all the parts together.

In the meantime, I congratulate all of you wonderful people on another successfully finished year, and all the best in the next one!

Cheers!

Nice work man :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Hi Elerion, Great job with your A4000. I have to do the same job witch my 2 a4k. I saw your pic and Caps replacement before and after replacement. First cap 22uF before replacement have good polarity but after is solder with wrong polarity could u check it (first from bottom pic caps for audio)?

Cheers,
Adam

@Adix: Yes I noticed. Thanks. It was fixed after taking the pics, as I explainted that later in the post.

got some pr0n pics of the A4000 set up and running with CRT or LCD monitor... ?

@matt020: I was planing to complete the cosmetic work before such pictures, but sure. I can make a few. :)

As requested, here are two piscs of A4000 running with on an oversized monitor. :roll:

I was using old 1084 monitor while testing repairs, but I decided to test the GVP 28/24 with this one, and used the oportunity to make some photos.

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/45.jpg

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/46.jpg

It tooked me a while before I figured out that OS3.9 Boing bag 2 patches exec.library in a way that CGX modes are not showing in ScreenMode Prefs.
Not so elegant solution was to skip exec.library patching in setpatch. Is there a better one? (Upgrading CGX4 to RC4, 5 and 6 didn't help.)

Encouraged by Abraxxxious great success ;), It's time to try it myself:

I'm using cheap Muhler Blacklight lamp, 12% peroxide, some castor oil, and some Vanish oxy.

And here we go:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/50.jpg

Let's sleep on this one...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Elerion

Encouraged by Abraxxxious great success ;), It's time to try it myself:

I'm using cheap Muhler Blacklight lamp, 12% peroxide, some castor oil, and some Vanish oxy.

And here we go:

Let's sleep on this one...

---

Oh Snap! You didn't take the keyboard apart first? You're going to need to take it apart and make sure it's 100% dry in there before using it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LamboJay

Oh Snap! You didn't take the keyboard apart first? You're going to need to take it apart and make sure it's 100% dry in there before using it.

---

Of course I did. I have just placed top cover on the keys to save space. It seems the lamp is not strong enough to spread light over three parts of keyboard and A4000 front at once.

Anyway, after approx 7 hours of sunbathing, I've rinsed the parts.
It's not perfect, but there is definite improvement. (Especially on the "space key".) No damage on the plastic or metal parts. :-)

I will take and post pictures at first opportunity.

What is noticeable right away, it seems that lamp is really too weak. Keyboard has been unevenly whitened. It's whiter on the center (closer to the lamp), and yellower on the sides.

It seems I need a better lamp for next attempt, but it's quite hard to buy a nice lamp here in Croatia. The closest match are overpriced medical lamps, and reptile ambient lamps...

What do you think of these?

http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products...cent_bulbs.php

It seems that Repti Glo 5.0 and 10.0 have a lot of light in UVA and UVB part of the spectrum, and are not so expensive.

Awesome work Elerion & an absolute credit to you.

I have taken liberty of Rating the thread & also vote for Sticky Status. :thumbsup:

All the Best.

Kin

Thanx Kin! :thumbsup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Elerion

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LamboJay

Oh Snap! You didn't take the keyboard apart first? You're going to need to take it apart and make sure it's 100% dry in there before using it.

---

Of course I did. I have just placed top cover on the keys to save space.

---

Ok cool. I was just worried that the gel might get into the spaces of the keyboard and make the keys sticky if not removed from the rubber springs.

Nice work on all the repairs :thumbsup: We have nearly identical monitors btw.

@LamboJay:
Monitor is OK, but I like your A3k better! :drool:

Results are not bad for first attempt. You can compare it against pictures form previous page. "Space" key and "8" key were badly yellowed, and now they are almost identical to the rest of the keyboard.

Floppy drive was not retr0brighted because I didn't think it needed it. Now when everything else is whiter, I can see that I was wrong.

Another dose will be needed anyway, because there is still some yellowing on the keyboard (especially on the sides), and plastic below the floppy.

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/51.jpg

I'm not going to use two internal floppy drives, but I found some red flat cable and made a new floppy cable with correct 4-6 twist to pimp this A4000 a bit. :cool:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/52.jpg

Sad day. :(

I have only one accelerator board standoff so I removed it to make a mold for a few new ones I'm planning to make.

After reinserting the A3640, I found out it died!

On power up, it shows yellow screen and does about 6-7 fast power led flashes (much faster then during guru meditation), than the screen turns black. Keyboard reset works and repeats the yellow flashing act.

I'll put stupid overactor smiley here.
:overactor:
There.

Replacement 68030 board works fine.

I replaced 68040 with a new one - same thing...
Examined the board under magnifier... - nothing weird found.

I feel guilty...
Could it be that I stressed it too much by pulling it out and reinserting it and broke some weak trace or via somewhere?
Did I discharge some static?

Any Idea what could be wrong by the symptoms?

Did you moved the INT/EXT jumpers to EXT to use the 3640 instead the 3630 (INTernall jumpers required).

Bad CPU Fast slot can cause it to not boot, 4000's are notorious for this. Reseat the card.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rkauer

Did you moved the INT/EXT jumpers to EXT to use the 3640 instead the 3630 (INTernall jumpers required).

---

They were on EXT all the time. I just removed and reinserted the card to remove the standoff. It died during that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TjLaZer

Bad CPU Fast slot can cause it to not boot, 4000's are notorious for this. Reseat the card.

---

Done that at least 5 times, resoldered and cleaned all the pins on the connector, nothing...

Well, the board was badly affected by caps spill. (Check the picture in the begining of the thread. It looks so bad that it makes you cry.) My best guess is that there's a trace or via broken somewhere, but not in close proximity to the caps. I've checked at least 50 traces and vias close to them.

After a few seconds of yellow screen, CPU gets halted. If it's a broken trace it will be a nightmare to find. I might look into logic chips next, but I've decided not to spend too much time in fixing it.

After long negotiations, I'm now a proud owner of Cyberstorm PPC. Thanks B. :thumbsup:


http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/53.jpg

This is 68040@25 & PPC@180 Mhz Cyberstorm PPC card. Apart from being dusty and original coolers are missing, It's in excellent condition!

After cleaning it, It's time to reassemble it, but 68040 is not what I'll be putting back in… :roll:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/54.jpg

I'll switch jumper 5 on the board. This one changes frequency from 25 to 50 Mhz. These jumpers are the smallest electronic components I’ve seen. For comparison, the tip of the soldering iron is just 0,5 mm thick.


http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/55.jpg

The other switch is below the 68040 chip. This one changes processor core voltage from 5V to 3.3V.

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/57.jpg

There. Everything in place and it's time to put in… You've guessed. 68060.

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/58.jpg

It's written XC68EC060RC60 on the chip, but if you check the mask number 01F43G, it's actually a full core 68060 V1 @ 50 Mhz.
It will do nicely until I get my hands on V6 core chip to do some decent overclocking. (Thanks Motorola for confusing us.)

I have only 2 suitable 32 Mb Simms, but this will be a very nice boost over existing onboard 16MB fast RAM. (I have removed onboard fast RAM, because it seems Amiga uses that one first…)

So here we go. Everything is in place and Amiga is Booting… Fast as hell!!!

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/59.jpg


SysInfo does not recognize 68060, but it does calculate speed.

For grand finale, I just need to reassemble the Amiga and post some bandwidth intensive, hardcore pr0n pictures for you. :nod:

But before that, I must wait for these two pieces to get white again:

http://web.vip.hr/nevens.vip/60.jpg

I'm very happy with the results of retr0bright on other plastic parts, but these two are tough yellow cookies.

Stay tuned…