More help..... This time with something different

Now I'm intrigued, and I want to do something like this - http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=13493 Sadly, with the 30+ hours a week I'm putting in on school homework (which is why I'm here all the time. :-) Have to work on a computer the entire time, might as well look at something I like in the downtime.) I won't be getting around to this soon. I did look up a case, but I think the Cases I'm looking at are slightly larger. There are two different models, a beige one and a black one. You can see the black one here - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811121010 It's a standard ATX sized so there should be a bit of space inside. i figured I would modify the case, either cutting the side to allow for side placement of the mouse and joystick, or buy those adapter cables and route them to the front, underneath on the last 5.25 bay. Should I go for a smaller case? What's everyone's opinions? Thanks for the thoughts.

The Amibay link is wrong, mate.

That's very strange I pulled it directly from the topic. Let me try it again.

-edit- I cannot get the link to work. I went into Amioracle, selected the topic, which is A600/Slim-Desktop PC project, and then I highlighted the address and copy and pasted and it comes back with an error saying that it cannot find what I am looking for? What did I do wrong? That's always worked in the past for me.. Ahh i fixed it. My punctuation was killing it.

I have the same idea: using a bare-bones desktop case (I have a silver one here, with a posh 400W ATX micro-PSU).

I'm planning in just solder the wires to use a A2k/3k keyboard with it.

Black floppy already converted! Black DVD too!

Keyboard & other ports to the back, using the PCI slot covers for fancy look.

I know I'm going to need some tools, such as a tap, and I will need a A600/A1200 to PC Key adapter. I need to learn how to change the power adapter so I can change that. I thought about buying one of those ATX adapters from Amigamaniac and soldering the connectors to the appropriate points on the motherboard. I need to get a PAL/NTSC A600 Motheboard only and I need access to my stepdad's shop for his machine tools for metalworking. I think I will tap Ed's mind and come up with some additional things, but yeah, I have an idea on what I want to do, I just need to implement everything and get going.

Okay, I'm lining everything up that I want for this case and I don't know which tap and die to get. Someone said that standard motherboard mounting standoffs use a 3mm thread? Any help with this would be very much appreciated. When I get to work on this I will take photos and post them regularly.
I also have a project I am going to try which is to replace a dead external power supply. I have found a replacement board, a PT-65B which is rated at 63.5W 5V@7A 12V@3.2A and -12V@0.7A which should be enough, correct? What makes this interesting for me is that the case for the power supply was this 7 1/2" by 3" black case rated at 25W for the original board. I know I it's recommended to have forced air cooling of at least 18CFM, so I was looking at this fan right here - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-055-_-Product I see it's only 16.1CFM but the 18CFM is recommended if I want to raise output to 72W. I have already removed the wire leads from the old power supply and as per Ed's suggestion, I have hooked the Current wire from the power connector to the Switch to allow for usage of it. I even shrink wrapped it with his help. I have identified which color wires go to which pins, and now I can identify the voltage for the wires. I am excited for my first attempt at hackery! I will try my best to take pictures of everything for people to see. Here's a link to the open frame power supply I'm interested in, tell me what you think :) - http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...0001_216734_-1

Okay one last thing I could really use your help with. I need a soldering iron. I do have a budget, so if I can keep it below 50 USD I would be appreciative. Any suggestions and places to look would be greatly appreciative.

Hiyas Nathan,

A $50 budget should be be able to get you something reasonable.

what type of jobs do you plan on using it for?

okay I spent a moment www.eBay.com on your behalf, most of these are within your stated budget - some slightly over but worth considering)



Yihuna 937D+ $45 + Free postage
http://i.ebayimg.com/05/%21CE09cR%21...Q%7E%7E0_1.JPG
wattage 45



Atten Solder Station $55 + $11 Postage
http://i.ebayimg.com/14/%21CDpT%21yQ...g%7E%7E_35.JPG
wattage 60



AOYUE 936 Solder Station $32 + $30 postage
http://i.ebayimg.com/13/%21Bv8fEzQBm...g%7E%7E_35.JPG
wattage 35



Hakko 937 Solder Station $40 BIN or make an offer (postage is free)
http://i.ebayimg.com/14/%21C%21F9JWg...g%7E%7E0_1.JPG
wattage 60

I would suggest making an offer as this unit doesn't come with asoldering iton, although these can be picked up cheaply.



Weller EC1201 Solder Station $34.95 + $10.95 Postage
http://i.ebayimg.com/16/%21CFZyVf%21...Q%7E%7E_35.JPG
wattage 60 watts




Chicago Electrick - $28 + $15 pnp
http://i.ebayimg.com/06/%21CFI,QzQEG...g%7E%7E_35.JPG
http://i.ebayimg.com/04/%21CFI,,7Q%2...Q%7E%7E_35.JPG
wattage: ask seller (I guess about 35 watts)



Whats Watt?
Essentially its about the amount of energy we can put into something at one time. In terms of soldering this means how much we can heat up without losing temperature. remember in soldering its better to heat up and weld something quickly rather than a protracted age waiting for the solder to heat.


30 watts
Great for SMD work, most provide a good ESRD safety net for thos those CPLDs that contain fofirmware.
depending on the grade of through hole and ground planes this may struggle on things like A500 motherboards.

40 Watts
This is good for nearly all SMD work and a reasonable amount of through hole work as well.
although this may struggle a little on large ground planes, its handy on light PSU rework as well.

60 watts
This is great for most things, from tough A500 motherboards to ligt/medium Power supplies.
just be careful with SMD based components - especially CPLD's and those that contain firmware.
as 60 watts can damage them.

100 watts
This really should be used in conjunction with heavy-duty electronics, like large scale power supplies and heavy gauge rework.

there - that should help =)

Thank you for all of the information on this Zetr0! That really helps me narrow down how many watts I need, and some excellent prices! I understand that Weller is the brand to go with if I can get it for an affordable price, but other brands should be adequate so long as they have replaceable parts, correct? On the work I will be doing it will just be simple through hole soldering, and re-wiring that new power supply for this Amiga case I have. I want to look into getting a PAL A600 motherboard (a working one.) and removing things like the RF output piece and maybe the power connector and wire it to an adapter for an ATX PSU as I want to put an A600 into a desktop case. I have all sorts of weird ideas, but I don't think I will be doing any super heavy duty soldering. I have very little experience and aside from tinning some wires, and mounting wires that had become detached, I haven't done any solder work at all.

A small amendment: a 100~120W I²R pistol is great for large ground planes and large gauge wires/solders.

They are obscenely cheap and worth for repairs in power supplies, monitors and stubborn solders. Don't use near sensitive electronics components!