@ ubermick
Try some pet supplies stores; they sell 35% peroxide as a product called Urine Rescue (honestly, Lorne in Arizona found that one!).
Printable View
@ ubermick
Try some pet supplies stores; they sell 35% peroxide as a product called Urine Rescue (honestly, Lorne in Arizona found that one!).
Cheers Merlin...
Holy hand grenade of antioch tho - 35%?!?! I'm assuming I'd want to dilute that down for use to about 10% or so, yeah? So maybe a half pint of that, plus a little bit over a pint of water would give around about 10%?
Well, I can't claim that I have read this entire thread because it is huge but I did browse the wiki and used the forum search and these two questions remain:
1. Are there any recipes with ingredients available in Germany?
2. Can the color get bright than it originally was?
I don't have much in the way of chemistry knowledge, so sorry if this is a dumb question. :)
Edit: It actually came up on geekhack at some point because somebody claimed that the color of the lettering on his keyboard was off after retr0briting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ubermick
nah,you wont have to dilute it.
@icarium
2. Can the color get bright than it originally was?
nope,not that ive seen anyway.i take them out when they have changed colour
@ Icarium
A recent discovery is the use of BBlonde hair peroxide cream for Retr0brighting. This cream is already set up to use straight out of the bottle and it's darn near goof-proof.
There is another brand called Redken that also works, so I'd take a look in your local supermarkets and pharmacies for these first.
@ ubermick
Yes, dilute it with two parts water to one part 35% peroxide and you should be OK.
Hi
Just rejoining this thread after a year, to see the new tips about Bblonde from Boots. Sounds great! and no oxy! :)
Ive a bbc Master and a bbc B to do... both are quite strongly yellowed. any guidance please to how long to leave out in the 'english sun' this time of year and if theres different strength BBlond thats optimal?
Also, last time i did this I had trouble following the earlier 'cover with cling film' reference as for me that introduced more trouble with 'waves' than I felt it actually helped. Whats the current guidance with how often to revisit and recoat /top up using that Bblonde?
One more question: my master has permanent ink writing and some paint on it. In UK, any suggestion of a solvent /cleaner to best remove that please? thread search for ink didnt return an answer sorry...
Thanks again!
:)
Permanent ink is almost permanent, but you can wash some out of the plastic using isopropanol (=ISO alcohol = IPA).
isopropanol alcohol did the trick nicely, so it wasnt as permanent as I feared!
any tips re the length of time to leave out in the sun (when that finally occurs, maybe august)
and how best to get a blob of paint off?? theres a 1p sized blob of yellow paint I cant seem to shift, and dont want to dissolve the case trying to shif t it.. any tips please?
Winter/Spring/Autumn weather is more indicated than Summer for Retr0bright, my friend.
You don't need heat, only UV radiation. Of course, freezing the solution over the plastic is not indicated...
To paraphrase the song, while Waiting for the english rain we had some English sun this morning
90mins of sun, one bottle of bblonde and wow what a difference. The bbc is almost done in one session! It will take a second dose just to get all the sides right but it has worked remarkably well, and it seems more gentle/ even than when I did this the home-brew way before :)
Funnily enough it didn't foam up, but it did get close to drying out. That's why I stopped it after 90 mins of reapplying etc...
I'll give it a second go soon.
It strikes me the two main risks ( for me at least !) now are
A i mustn't get casual about how dangerous this stuff can be! Goggles, gloves still needed of course !
B I still need to find a big disposable cooking tray(?) foil tray ( ?) or box (?) each time, deep enough to cover with film and big enough to fit a bbc or other kit in!
Any ideas on B? Has anyone found a Source of big foil trays or similar to use? I thought of perhaps one of those plastic storage boxes from b&q or a pound shop... Ideas?
I had a 1litre bottle of Peroxide cream arrive this morning and I painted some on an Amiga mouse in the little sunshine we have today. No bubbling. Had to leave it inside a poly bag as I'd rather not find my cat had shown interest in it (he's already got a terminal heart condition and I'd rather he doesn't get poisoned!)Quote:
Originally Posted by iainjh
Its been out there a couple of hours... doesnt look much different but I'll go check shortly.
The mouse ball cleans up well after a soak in boiling water and washing up liquid, followed by the kitchen green scourer.
EDIT: One A500 mouse, looks almost new... Could have left it longer but the cat started showing interest in it.
Pictures, or it didn't happen......;)
Looks like it didnt then cos I didnt take a before pic.. but I've got plenty more to do this weekend if the weather holds (and the cat stays in!) :roll:Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin
i hereby submit my evidence :) no proper "before" pic. but you can see the left side of the base with its unyellowed inside lip at the top, (a side shot of the newly treated lid then the base laid on top if that makes sense)
then the treated master lid with the inside of the base laid on top of it for comparison (err, the money shot )
:)
when I do the other bbc I'll take proper pics before and after!
I'll settle for an 'after' picture - don't hold back on the pr0n! :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by MethanoidLooks like it didnt then cos I didnt take a before pic.. but I've got plenty more to do this weekend if the weather holds (and the cat stays in!) :roll:Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin
Some pr0n for Merlin!
Here's the results of today's first retrobriting session - using 18% Peroxide cream for hairdressing - the cat co-operated and didnt go near but the weather was a bit hit and miss. I got some results but need to redo some of it. A 1L bottle was hardly touched for this lot. Only about 2-3 hours (A500 needed least) in sun.
BEFORE
http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1635
AFTER
http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1636
AFTER
http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1637
BEFORE A500 Bottom (didnt need doing but a clean was in order)
http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1639
BEFORE A500 Side (yellowed and grimy from disk ejects)
http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1640
AFTER - Almost virgin A500!!
http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1641
AFTER - A500 side (might redo for 100% virgin look!) http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1642
BEFORE - PSUs & Cumana DD
http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1643
BEFORE - More PSU bits
http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1644
AFTER - Mouse for A500 (no before pic but only side had yellowing)http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1645
AFTER - Cumana DD case
http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1646
AFTER - Streaky PSU - was worst yellowed and needs more time in sun!
http://www.amibay.com/picture.php?al...pictureid=1647
I'm gonna re-do some tomorrow. Keys from keyboards will be an issue as I dont want to do them on the keyboard (springs will rust) and painting on cream is tedious for each key. Might buy some peroxide solution and soak them
nice work mate i have a 1200 case in the sun at the mo using bblonde
just for info guys bblonde has changed bottle design
http://s5.postimage.org/53bahhzsz/IM...630_203351.jpg
Hi there!I have acquired two old mechanical keyboards and they're both have some yellowness that i want to remove, one is a an acer model and the other is a mitac using complicated white alps switches. Im Portuguese and i was wondering if there are here fellow Portuguese members who might actually know what to buy here in Portugal to produce the retroBright.
regards,
Merlin
What would you recommend for KBs? I have the keys taken off one and suspect thats the way to go forward as it wont damage the metal underneath.
Soak them in peroxide solution (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140573608206)?
Soak them in above with Vanish added?
Soak them in diluted peroxide cream?
Paint them with peroxide cream? (This will take an eternity for 3 keyboards worth!)
Pure peroxide or with a bit of Vanish, your choice.
Remember to sake the glass every now and then to make all the keys receive almost same UV radiation.
Adding Vanish/TAED the solution will be spent after a day or two.
Without it the process will take much more time, but will be completely safe. Up to five days exposed to sunlight instead the eight hours of H2O2+TAED mixture gives.
I'd go for this method. 12% peroxide with a tough of Vanish in a bowl or a glass jar, with aluminium foil underneath, to relfect the sunlight back - that way you get the maximum exposure for the keys. If you can make a fancy 'upside down lampshade' design to reflect the light back at the sides, then so much the better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Methanoid
:)
hi dave would know how too fix this c128d keyboard case, it has had a few coats of bblonde but its not budgin cheers
http://s5.postimage.org/km4lk8znn/20120703_191534.jpg
http://s5.postimage.org/h3slnuyrn/20120703_191635.jpg
http://s5.postimage.org/dy7zxng5f/20120703_191701.jpg
18% or lower concentration? Longer exposure and stronger peroxide?Quote:
Originally Posted by johnim
@ johnim
If the yellow isn't being affected, then it's not down to flame retardants; it's down to polymer degradation and oxidation.
Time to match some paint to the inside of the keyboard, John.... maybe you could take one of the parts and try to match up a paint swatch at your local Halfords? If you can find a shade they can mix some up for you.
Ford Sahara Beige isn't far off the original colour, but they did several versions of it. You want the older, 'greyer' version, as used on the 1966 Mustang.
https://encrypted-tbn0.google.com/im..._7HCDjmkXJ1SDh
The version used on the 1980 Ford Capri is also very close.
http://cdn.images.pistonheads.com/ai.../3893908-7.jpg
I know this because my Dad had a Ford Escort in this colour back around 1970-71. Like this one:-
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/uploa...rd/2268686.jpg
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/uploa...rd/2268682.jpg
ok thanks dave will have to pop down, its mad really the top cover and only 4 keys went yellow. im glad its a metal version and not the plastic 1
thanks john
OMG, incredible knowledge.. awful colour for a car!!! :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin
@ Methanoid
It gets better, here is A600 / A1200 / VIC 20 white, otherwise known as Austin Rover Old English White....
https://encrypted-tbn0.google.com/im...yUG5kkms7nhwEQ
https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/im...3mt0QU-dLZYnN7
https://encrypted-tbn1.google.com/im...qXqhoo-5R-XxWg
When you restore these machines, if they are really badly marked or beyond help like John's is, you have to get as close to the authentic colour as you can...
It's a fine line between being awesome and being a sad anorak, knowing this stuff...
:bowdown:to merlin
I use to have a VW Beetle 1966 with a very near colour...
When I was 18, but hey!
:offtopic:I know, but I couldn't resist posting the pictures of old cars to drool over....
@Merlin:
I was wondering, if you ever gave that oxalic acid a try?
I did give it a try, and it did.... nothing. :( Either in water or in solvents such as Ispropanol. :thumbsdown:
Don't know if people are still interested in this? but I had a go with an old Amiga mouse this afternoon.
I first cleaned the mouse, removed some paint splashes that were on the surface. I then just covered the mouse with B-Blonde using a small brush and then placed it in a plastic sandwich bag on top of the shed roof. This was about 3pm and the weather was quite overcast. The sun came out about 5pm for a few hours so I left it there until around 8pm.
Our local Boots only had 12% B-Blonde in, but here are the results and I reckon it worked quite well. :-
http://www.shadieb.co.uk/mouse1.jpg
http://www.shadieb.co.uk/mouse2.jpg
Going to do the same again tomorrow as the camera makes it look a little better then it actually is, but it is still a huge improvement and a job well worth doing.
Nice results. Yeah I find also that sometimes the pics make things look better than the human eye finds the results. I ended up doing some parts two or more times
The guy with that video that has 'Instant' results (OK, 10 to 15 minutes).
I saw a thread recently about this and there was a comment that if the parts were left in too long, they became very brittle. It was also mentioned that a chlorinated compound was used as part of his mixture, yet the guy doesn't realise the implications of using Chlorine to clean parts.
:double
I'm going to be doing some retr0brightening soon...
In the process of making a "brightening stand" with mounted UV lamps and other fancy stuff :D
Photos will be taken once the operation begins :)
How would I go about doing a load of A1200 keys?
A lot of the mixtures mentioned here and on the wiki produce a paste but I've seen people putting keys in jars filled with clear liquid - what are the ingredients for that?
RTFM? :lol:
Peroxide solution (dilute to 10-15%) and teaspoon of Vanish Oxy... Personally I was disappointed in the results so am doing 2nd KB with Peroxide cream with keys spaced apart on KB to secure them. Several passes. Just put them out 5 mins ago in the one day of sun we're getting this year in the UK!
Thanks :)
I couldn't find that recipe on the retrobright wiki, it just has the gel:
http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Retr0Bright+Gel
Someone suggested laying the keys out and applying gel, but you might not get 100% coverage.
I just have to attach a picture of my a1200 keyboard! I used Retr0bright gel to whitener it. I was testing Retr0bright last winter with an UV-lamp without any success. Now I made a test and placed my very yellowed keyboard at the direct sunlight (we do have sunlight every now and then in Finland... :unsure:).
Time consumed about 6 hours, I placed Retr0bright over again in every hour and turned it a little bit, so the sunlight could get everywhere. I had cling film over the keyboard all the time to prevent drying. I didn't remove the keys, just the metal back plate.
Now the keyboard is so white, it almost hurt my eyes! :cool: This stuff is just excellent!! :lol:
Edit: Oh yeah, the receipe:
1 dl water with tablespoon of Maizena thickener (it's supposed to make white sauce with this)
1 dl of 20 % peroxide (30 % from drug store, I just diluted it a bit)
tea spoon (or less) of Vanish oxi action
Here's what happens if you leave it too long in the sun and the H202 solution evaporates and/or it gets too hot
http://www.amibay.com/album.php?albu...pictureid=1754
Here's a neat way to do keyboards. Remove the keys and springs and replace the keys with gaps around them. Then you can "paint" the keys all around with peroxide cream. Takes a long time but best results
http://www.amibay.com/album.php?albu...pictureid=1755
My turn to ask help here...
Here, in Japan no Vanish Oxy avaliable and peroxide dilution is something like 3%, called Oxydol(stuff for desinfection), but lots of stuff to make "cutie blondie".
I have no idea, how to use it and i would not ask in the shop "how to bleach plastic with hairdresser's set". Will it work on plastic? If "most likely yes", i will give it a try, since a cost of set is about 500yen
question about retrobriting printed keycaps (specifically, for an apple IIc)
I believe the letters are printed on.. will retrobrite remove or fade the ink?
any tips to avoid? shorter durations? (using bblonde 40 vol 12% )
also, the IIc printed logo on the case; I was going to cover it finely with insulation tape to protect it. Assuming it doesnt peel off, is that an ok solution to the problem? has anyone tried applying vaseline or alternative tape/ other stuff to prevent damage to localised areas like printed logo's?
ta for any pointers
Be carefull with tapes - edges coming off easily and unexpected
Covering the painted logos with tape might work, the problem is covering only the paint, you must be a ninja to cover only the logo and not the surrounding yellowed plastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by iainjh
Avoid vaseline as it normally mix with peroxide.
There are some pictures of Apple stuff on the Retr0bright Wiki site. If the legends on the keys are stickers, I would mask them off with insulation tape (electrical tape) as that is made from PVC and won't react with Retr0bright.
You can also get paintable, peel-off masking agent from a model shop. This may make life a lot easier as you can apply it with a cotton bud for large areas and a small brush for detailed stuff.
Transparent sticky tape might make the job easier, as you can see what you are doing.
ta,
:)
Is there any chance you could reupload the pics?Quote:
Originally Posted by Methanoid
I haven't decided yet how to do my keys. Using the peroxide in a jar with foil underneath might be best as the cats next door might take an interest :roll:
My pics are still there.