You're right, they don't show up in the thread for me though - I just went to your album instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by Methanoid
I think I've got enough ideas - Might try using the BBlonde though as it's so cheap.
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You're right, they don't show up in the thread for me though - I just went to your album instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by Methanoid
I think I've got enough ideas - Might try using the BBlonde though as it's so cheap.
Just an update with the iic and the keys- the bblonde didn't affect the keycaps or the case logo printing at all ( as far as I can see) even after a few doses
The tape I initially used caused more damage than the bblonde!
It really does work so well, very evenly and better than my homebrew retrobrite last year
Keycaps btw I just laid face up in a disposable foil tray ( not aluminium!!) and coated... I didn't blu tac them down this time and actually used... A twig i found in the garden to hold em down while pasting them up, that worked well too
Iic is looking good, as is the iic monitor case parts and mouse, ext floppy too!!
:) :)
MUST GET PICTURES.... Retrobrite porn!
just one for now - I'll add more inc showing a part of it before and after, later
sorry for poor quality smut pic, for proper quality filth I really need to use more than just a phone camera..
anyway, hope this part dressed apple iic nekkid pic will do the job for now :)
Went to boots to get more bblonde, and..
It's presently on offer, buy two get one free
How exciting! :)
Might be worth stocking up while it's cheap then :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by iainjh
What's the best price people have found for the 12% hydrogen peroxide? Is there anywhere else I can look other than sallys, ebay and places like superdrug? I want to get the cheapest possible, I don't think this breaks the price driving rules :D
Have you tried large pharmacies? They'll usually do it cheaply, but in large quantities
I often wonder what the staff in these pharmacies think, when they see blokes shuffling in and buying BBlonde hair peroxide, especially when the person buying it is bald......:unsure:
:lol:
As a proud baldie, I order from eBay.. safe anonymity!!
i have had funny looks dave as im bald
same here.
On about 4 visits!
:)
Thankfully I work in a school and the science department have high percentage stuff that I get them to dilute down to 12% for me and it's free (Well... they get jobs done as a priority for a few weeks :p)
I've got about two tonnes of the 35% stuff in our back yard at work, as we used to use it to treat our trade effluent. ;)
Since I bought the 50% strong stuff (200volumes), the guys hardly will think I'm trying to bleach my (sparse) hair.
As I have beard, I'm luck they don't think I'm a terrorist, lol.
But you are a terrorist :bomb ...at least where Ataris are concerned! :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by rkauer
Why thank you.:smdevil:
I noticed "savers" in the UK has BBlonde for just over £1 (think it was something like £1.11)
After reading this thread again, and also reading the eab thread twice :wooha: I think I will give BBlonde a try, people seem to have got good results with it on eab. The key thing to remember is to top it up when it starts to dry out.
I noticed when doing keyboards, some people removed the metal plate and membrane and did the whole keyboard, but I might try to remove the keys and blu-tack them in a tray, as some people suggest the peroxide will make the springs rust.
Also what are the resident chemists views on what happened here:
http://eab.abime.net/showpost.php?p=...&postcount=829
Is this caused by the oxy?
i found a 12% Peroxide in china market, little bottle 1,49€ and big bottle for 3,49€
i have buy a little bottle, i need more components for remove yellow?
I would like to give the faceplates of my floppies a little brightening, but I'm not too sure if they can be removed that easily. Does anyone know if the faceplates from the Chinon HD drives can be removed?
I took mine fully apart to clean it. There were 2 clips on the top and 1 on the bottom. I released the bottom clip with a jeweler's screwdriver and then released the top. It came off very easily.
Just be careful because the clips are very thin and fragile. One wrong move and it will probably snap on you.
If you go a bit further, you can remove the side screws to get the metal frame off. Once you do that, you can access the eject button and remove it as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonheart
I have managed to buy 9% hydrogen peroxide from hairdresser supply store (they only sell to professional hairdressers but i managed to convince them that i'm not bleaching my hair at home..) :-D. Finnish drug stores sell chemicals, but price is out of this planet. For example, 90eur for 1l of 30% (clean) hydrogen peroxide. 9% hairdresser stuff is ~10eur for 1l.
Now I need UV light source. I live in northern Finland, so sunlight is not an option here. I'm a bit sceptical at blacklight lamps etc. I also need strong UV lamp for PCB work ..
My guestion is, what do you think of 150W mercury-vapor lamp with outer glass removed, as UV light source?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury-vapor_lamp
I know it works for pcb making, but is it too much for retrobright?
I already have old ballast to use with it.
(WARNING: Modifying light bulb is DANGEROUS and strong UV light produced WILL damage your eyes and possibly cause skin cancer.)
You really dont need the UV light or bags or anything else. I've done all of my work in a room that has no windows and the pieces were left in the dark for 24hrs or more and came out as-new.
I've done a few pieces already and I simply mix 12% peroxide (40 Volume) and an Ultra Blonde Powder Bleach. I use 100ml of the peroxide with 50grams of Powder Bleach. I mix by hand with a spoon for about 30 sec and then apply.
Maybe the UV and bagging and everything else might help to speed up the process but I find that in 24hrs - 36hrs I get new looking pieces so no reason for the added complexity.
I actually have another A4000 front bezel in the room right now that I coated this afternoon which I just purchased from a member on here that was badly yellow'd.
That's my $0.02 anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pauli
---------- Post added at 21:31 ---------- Previous post was at 21:19 ----------
I just went in to take a progress shot. Here is what mine looks like right now after 6hrs.
The Powder bleach that I purchased was a blue colour so my photos look totally different than everyone elses who always show a white foam buildup.
That rag that is under the cover has alot of residue on it because I have used it on several pieces so far. I just finish one, and put in another.
http://www.b00t.co/users/bitcpy/Amig..._whitening.jpg
Just to add to what bitcpy has written, there is a thread about using peroxide and powder bleach here:
http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=31469
and WonkeyDonkey done it here:
http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=34608
No UV required, although it seems it does take a little longer than the traditional retr0bright recipe or cream peroxide.
For the chemistry part, I understand UV light plays major role in Retrobright. Without it you will achieve normal hydrogen peroxide bleaching. With UV light, idea is to break oxidiced flame retardant molecule, which is yellow.
I live in Finland, and we dont have that much sunny days.. I just built my own UV light source. I haven't tested it with retrobright.
http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=35717
-Pauli
OK, I guess I'll try it on my A4000D bezel and on my floppy drive fascias...
Just to make sure:
- Bblonde from Boots will work without adding anything like OxyAction et al? Just smear it all over the plastic and place under UV light source?
- An UV light bulb from Maplins like this one is OK? Is it the correct wavelength?
Yes, that will work. :)
May I ask why the Oxy Cleaner is not needed in this case?
Just wondering... :p
EDIT
If you put the bulb in the ceiling it will hardly provide any benefit, unless if you can find a 1000W UV bulb. :)
It has to be placed close to the item being treated, so use a lamp with a decent reflector for maximum benefit. The reflector is important to avoid shadows which could give an uneven result. And if the sun is up, open the shades, as sunlight even on a foggy day easily beats a UV bulb.
Thought i'd cheer things up a little today. Here we've got plenty of sun most of the year, but me and a friend had a go on the recipe at summer.
Results were good, but i chose to post an image from the 'scientific' process... :nuts:
So, without any further ado, here's yours trully mixing chems:
"The Mad Professor Mariarti "
Lol, the background was added later on, but i thought it'd be a different touch to brighten things up a bit.. :p
Silent for a while....
Want to try this out on some of my retro items.
Trying to find the equivalences, since here in my country peroxide is labeled in volmes instead of concentration.
Looking at the math, the relationship would seem to be linear, i.e 3% ~ 10 volumes, sso 20 volumes should be ~ 6%, etc. would that be correct?
I can currently get up to 40 volumes, meaning it should be about a 12% concentration and should be adequate for this task, right?
Regarding the quantities, how much do you normally use? I know the oxi is like 1/4 teaspoongbuthow much peroxide would I need for say keys, or for soaking an amiga case? I'm being offered small 100 ml bottles or full 1 L ones.
Thanks!! :thumbsup:
No, volumes is a tricky measuring system. 200 volumes are equivalent to 50% (I can buy that stuff in my town, don't tell the police!).
40 volumes are near 12%, anyway.
1L will be enough to soak in the keys in a jar. For the case I think 5L or even more of the liquid formula. For the cream formula 1L will be enough for a couple of cases with the keyboards.
Ive just done the front of my new 1200 case today as it was a little yellowed towards the front.
Used the usual bblonde 40 volumes peroxide cream, and left it outside for the afternooon, and its not very sunny, uv index was 1 according to the weather.
Top vs bottom half, top was the same colour as the bottom:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8100/8...a2eaac67_z.jpg
I will try to to the bottom half in a few weeks, I basically took the lid off, bushed bblonde all over the top, conentrating on the yerllowed bottom half and went out for the afternoon..
The whole machine now looks like this (keyboard is a few weeks old, as I bought it from amigakit for my old 1200 )
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8107/8...53af2077_z.jpg
Hi,thanks for the reply!Quote:
Originally Posted by rkauer
Why is it a tricky measuring system? Seems pretty straightforward to me (and confirmed at least by the product labels I saw today that had both measurements).
Seemed pretty straigtforward and linear while looking at the stecheometry formulas. Take a look and tell me if it's flawed or something (while in spanish, the equations are pretty much universal):
http://ciencia-basica-experimental.net/peroxido.htm
Also found this in english:
http://www.hairfinder.com/hair4/pero...conversion.htm
So anyway, I only could get 30 vol/9% today, would that still be enough being we're in the middle of summer, temps in the 30-35C range and lots of sun?
From the sound of it, I guess I'd better use one liquid one for the key and give making the gel a go, which I didn't wanna do thinking I'm gonna mess it up.. :picard
What do you guys use to spread it around? Also have to see if folks around here know what xanthan is :roll: What type of store usually sells that?
Thanks for all the help!!
I need to retrobrite the HD FD drive in my A4000, does anybody know if it's possible to remove the fascia and flap? I don't really want to put it all over the drive as is.
I think that should be possible, most FDDs have clips that hold the front faschia in place. Be careful with the little spring loaded hatch/flap, those can be a bit tricky to remove.Quote:
Originally Posted by edd_jedi
Hi rkauer, I replied to this message you wrote before, but it didnt get published. For some reason it said it awaited moderation, you know anything about that? (Its been days and still dont see it). :blink:Quote:
Originally Posted by rkauer
Low post count and then your post have a few HTML links. I personally approved it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Walterg74
Thanks for the links, BTW.:)
Yes, you can. I've done it to both my drives. You'll have to carefully remove the top cover, and then you can gently pry off the fascia.Quote:
Originally Posted by edd_jedi
EDIT
Yes, BBlonde Crème Peroxide is a grade that a lot of people recommend instead.
EDIT
40 vol creme peroxide is what I used.Quote:
Originally Posted by KieranD212Ah that's the stuff i was referring too as hair dye lol. Im just going to buy a cheaper creme peroxide, well it works out cheaper since its in a bigger bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin
no need to add any thickeners, and I also have a feeling that the "oxy" laundry soaker does nothing either, but am yet to properly test this.
~22 degree Celsius day, in direct sunlight seemed to work well. I actually used a mirror for the keys (and mouse) so both sides were evenly exposed to the sun.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/9...0315170258.jpg
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/2...0317151252.jpg
EDIT
just slap it on ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by KieranD212
I used this stuff, but I'm not sure what you'll be able to find, as I'm in Australia.
http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/5...0316133104.jpg
Just painted it on with a paint brush, and left it in the sun for about 2 hours at a time, checking it occasionally.
I used a mirror to get sun exposure on both sides of the keys and mouse at the same time.
http://imageshack.us/a/img194/6585/20130317113710.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img16/9756/20130317113737.jpg
EDIT
@ KeiranD212
The keys are laser etched and the legends won't get damaged. BBlonde is the creme peroxide that most pharmacies and places like Superdrug carry in stock.
You can always go down to your local Sally's Hairdresser Supplies, but be prepared for some funny looks, especially if you, like some of us on here, are alsmost completely bald and are buying creme peroxide hair products!