3000T jumper settings

Hello

I have bought myself an 3000T so i have now moved my CS PPC from my 3000D to my 3000T and i cant get the jumpers corectly. It is so damn tight betwen the components on the motherboards so i cant even read the name of the jumpers.

I will post a pic and i have writen in red where i think the different ones are. If you see somthing wrong with the placement of them please let me know :)

http://img706.imageshack.us/i/unledko.jpghttp://img706.imageshack.us/i/unledko.jpg/
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/1672/unledko.jpg
http://img706.imageshack.us/i/unledko.jpg/

---------- Post added at 22:10 ---------- Previous post was at 21:00 ----------

The 3000T is now up and running with these settings

J102 1-2
J104 1-2
J100 3-4

The question now is, J103 should i leav the FPU ON or OFF? Does it even matter what i use there?

J103

FPU Chip select jumper. This jumper has three positions. In position 1-2 it disables the onboard FPU. In position 2-3 it causes the 68030 to get F-line traps instead of the FPU transaction and in position 3-4 it enables the onboard FPU.
What exactly is "F-line" have tried google but did not find to much that explain what it is.

From the Intarwebz:

Quote:

---

All Motorola 68020 and 68030 CPUs reserve the "F-line" instructions — that is, all opcodes (numeric instructions) beginning with the hexadecimal digit "F" act as traps (interupt signals) that hand control to the computer's operating (OS) system. If a 68882 is present in the system, the OS diverts these instructions for execution. If not, the OS will either call an FPU emulator to execute the instruction using 68020/68030 integer-based software code, or returns an error code to the program.

---

So, diverting F-lines to the CPU means that the CPU handles FPU functionality, presumably by emulating it, whereas disabling them means an error is returned when FPU instructions are called.

So the best thing would be to put J103 on 2-3, we do not want an error code do we? :)

It makes no difference whatsoever if you're using an accelerator. It only applies to the on-board CPU and FPU. I'd leave them set to FPU Enable, since there should be a 68882 on the motherboard and if you remove the CPU card, you might as well enable the FPU.

And now the 3000T is DEAD :(
Same settings and nothing happens, just stuck in a loop or somthing.

---------- Post added at 19:03 ---------- Previous post was at 17:30 ----------

Getings nuts on this thing, remade the int2 mod and booted it up again. IT WORKED.

I shut it down for a new bootup just to be safe and it still worked. So i did it once more just to be sure and now it dead again :(

So, first things first. Reseat all the custom chips, eyeball the board, see if you can spot any obvious signs of damage. I assume the battery is long-gone, but has there been any leakage evident? Have you cleaned it up with lemon juice and IPA?

How does the system behave if you remove the CS and put the jumpers back to INT? Make sure the old girl is rock-solid stable with the on-board '030 first.

You're confident the CS works in your A4000? If so, it's worth giving the CPU Fast slot a good check over, make sure the solder joints on the underside look good.

060
100 3-4
102 1-2
104 1-2
103 2-3

No battery dmg what so ever.

Removed the PPC and placed the jumpers like this.
030
100 1-2
102 2-3
104 1-2
103 2-3

Got to the "hand place in floppy screen" right away without any problems.

The PPC worked like a charm in my 3000D but not in my T :P

---------- Post added at 19:38 ---------- Previous post was at 19:35 ----------

Now i tried
060
100 3-4
102 1-2
104 1-2
103 2-3

And i got a screen atlest, "System Request" Volume Ram Disk is full

what?

---------- Post added at 20:12 ---------- Previous post was at 19:38 ----------

Just booted into WB, treid a ctrl+a+a and booted ok. Tried a hard resett and now i have a black screen again.

Did no change what so ever betwn the tries.

---------- Post added at 20:45 ---------- Previous post was at 20:12 ----------

The only thing i did this time ( when it booted into WB) where to press as hard as i could on the card, did not remove it or anything, just pressing it down with brute force :P

Is there some kind of contact spray or somthing to solve this?

Lemon juice followed by Isopropyl alcohol, applied with a toothbrush is probably your best bet here. Even just the IPA might well be enough (It was for both my A1200s)

Just give the contacts on the CPU socket a thorough cleaning, you'll find it works wonders.

Good luck! :-)