The Amiga boots, and the scan doubler works. But I have the following battery leakage.
http://img.tapatalk.com/47bde6c0-de36-09b0.jpg
How bad is this?
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The Amiga boots, and the scan doubler works. But I have the following battery leakage.
http://img.tapatalk.com/47bde6c0-de36-09b0.jpg
How bad is this?
That's very bad, if left untreated it will continue to corrode away the PBC & tracks.
You must remove the battery ASAP to stop further leaking and then the affected area needs to be treated with Lemon Juice or Distilled Vinegar to neutrilize.
You then need to clean with IPA and a toothbrush all the green gunk away the thing is you could also end up cleaning away whats left of some of the tracks so the board might not even boot after the treatment.
You would then need to repair all the damaged tracks and might need to resolder some of the nearby components.
Good luck.
Steve.
I've approx. the same damages and my A300 works fine except the RTC!
quick question..
once the battery is removed and not feeding the corrosion do you NEED to remove the green or can that just be left alone once battery removed.
I have an A500+ which i have replaced the battery,cleaned around the area but there are some spots of green on some of the legs of nearby parts. do i need to remove this green or has it stopped eaing the pcb ??
Removing the battery just stops further leakage, the green on the board will continue to eat away until you neutrilize and clean.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sardine
As said though this has it's own issues as it's possible you can remove some of the tracks while cleaning.
But either way, if left it will eventually destroy the Amiga forever so best to attend to it ASAP!
Steve.
@Balooga
As Steve said, it's bad. The good news is there's a generous chunk of ground plane there which seems to have taken most of the damage.
Clean the affected area well with duster spray as there appears to be dirt accumulated there, then remove all ICs and other components from it. With access to a clear PCB now, it's easy to treat it the way Steve mentioned.
I don't think any tracks have corroded to the point they'll break while scratching away the gunk, but be gentle. I've used a tiny flat-head screwdriver (along with lots of patience) to scratch away such corrosion with good results, but since there are also vias to be treated here, a fiberglass pencil would be way more appropriate.
Check for continuity between both sides of the vias - if some are broken there are ways to fix it with thin wire, maybe a solder drop would be enough too.
You can use a high resolution photo of the rev 9 motherboard as a guide for the traces and vias (at least I think yours is a rev9).
Also it's quite evident from your photo there are some dull solder joints, either due to the leakage or just because they could. If you find they're approximate to the leakage-damaged area, remove them and treat the PCB as said. If not, refluxing them should be sufficient.
Once all's back in place and the board proves to still work well, you can recoat the affected area with suitable lacquer to prevent oxidization of the exposed tracks and ground plane.
Don't let it die! Good luck :)
Thanks guys. I'm kind of bummed at the moment.
I had a 2000 with the same issue and it would boot. After removing and cleaning the area, it stopped booting. Some of the tracks came off due to them being eroded away from the leakage. All you can do is try and hope for the best. But if you do not clean it, it will definitely die in the end.
I would just snip the battery away, clean the area VERY gently and just leave it be and at least get some use out of it. (Do not get aggressive with a toothbrush as that will surely remove tracks!) But if you don't do anything it will definitely die in the end as it continues to errode away if not cleaned completely and neutralized.
If it would stop booting after the cleaning you can send the motherboard to some one that can fix it, we have alot of skilled ppl here on the forum that can help you with this task.
NiCD batteries leak potassium hydroxide (KOH) which is lye. This dissolves metals (those with easily oxidized outer layers) causing copper salts (green), nickle salts (white), iron salts (orange/red) to develope. While an organic (weak) acid such as citric or acetic (lemon juice or vinegar) will bring the pH back to the 7 range, just water (distilled or deionized) will dissolve the salts and remove them. Run the water over the area involved; do not soak a board with IC's on it, if they get even a few molecules of water in an IC it will cause corrosion especially when electricity is applied. IPA or isopropyl alcohol is no better than water and is impure; electrolytes in IPA mean little to skin where it is used as a disinfectant, but mean a great deal to an IC when a current is applied causing varying connections within it. Regardless you should allow the board to dry for at least 24 hours.