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Thread: 1084S-P LOPT+HOT replace

  1. #101
    resistance is futile! Amibayer! roy_bates's Avatar
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    the problem your having is not flyback related,its video signal related.

    you need to check the video input area.its probably sync related if its on all of them through one computer it may even be the computer.
    i have got too much hardware,it would only hurt your eyes to look at it here

  2. #102
    Inactive Member fordav1's Avatar
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    I just tested it on another Amiga and it's the same.
    I also checked it without any connection (i.e. no video cable plugged in, just powered on by itself) and same problem.
    It didn't have jailbars before with original flyback and now has this problem after flyback was changed so I'm leaning towards flyback issue or missing ground somewhere on the flyback causing this. Meaning maybe the re-manufactured flyback isn't 100% compatible?
    The only other thing I haven't tried is a different video cable but I only have 1 Amiga cable. Though with the same cable it was ok before changing the flyback. It seems to be an endless loop that always comes back to the flyback
    Last edited by fordav1; 13th May 2015 at 12:41.

  3. #103
    resistance is futile! Amibayer! roy_bates's Avatar
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    if it had a missing ground the flyback wouldnt work.

    and if it wasnt 100% compatible it wouldnt work.

    also the flyback(lopt) mostly deals with the horizontal on screen,thats why you need to look at the sync input inside the monitor.
    even with no signal injection.
    just changing the lopt isnt a calibration after repair,thats why reading the service manual is very important.if you can get one for it.
    i have got too much hardware,it would only hurt your eyes to look at it here

  4. #104
    Inactive Member fordav1's Avatar
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    I have schems for the monitor (found on Ray Carlsen's site)
    http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarls...Philips%20OEM/
    http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarls.../1081/MAIN.jpg
    http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarls...%20&%20CRT.jpg
    http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarls.../1081/RGBI.jpg

    there isn't a publicly available service manual for the 1081 as far as I know.
    I don't know much about how monitors work. My repairing knowledge is mostly focussed to logic/cpu circuit boards (such as Amiga motherboards, arcade PCBs etc, including surface mounted stuff.... pretty much anything except monitors
    so what am I looking for on the sync input and what would I do to adjust it if it wasn't right?
    Can you point it out on the schematic sheet? I'm not even sure where to look on the schems for the sync input signal
    Last edited by fordav1; 13th May 2015 at 13:29.

  5. #105
    resistance is futile! Amibayer! roy_bates's Avatar
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    you say you have four?

    they all do the same thing?

    you also have to be absolutely sure what schematics/service manual your looking at.
    i have got too much hardware,it would only hurt your eyes to look at it here

  6. #106
    Inactive Member fordav1's Avatar
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    yeah, 4. I bought one new in 1985, the others were given to me by friends because they were dead. I replaced caps, some transistors, flyback & power switch. re-soldered many joints on the boards (known cracked joint faults at connectors etc on the back)
    all work, all with same fault.
    the schems I linked above match the monitor I bought (the 1st one). the others have minor PCB differences. Regardless, one is identical to the schematics.
    Last edited by fordav1; 13th May 2015 at 22:28.

  7. #107
    resistance is futile! Amibayer! roy_bates's Avatar
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    ok,i had a thought.
    do you still have any of the old flybacks? if so,did they have a label on them?
    can you read the label and post the whole number on it here?

    if there the same as the schematics above they are philips chassis,you may of got the wrong flybacks.

    i dont have a 1081 here but i do have the monitors for the schematics you looking at,which are a 1084-p

    also,what are these minor differences you talk of on the pcb?
    have you tried the vcr switch on the back?
    Last edited by roy_bates; 14th May 2015 at 07:08.
    i have got too much hardware,it would only hurt your eyes to look at it here

  8. #108
    Inactive Member fordav1's Avatar
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    My monitor has Philips label inside on the tube M34EAQ10X
    The circuit board has number 3138 103 30854
    The flyback has number PVP AT1201/T11 30161 TY E39144
    This is the one I bought....

    http://www.hrdiemen.com/reparation/flyback/model/6489
    http://www.hrdiemen.com/reparation/flyback/scheme/6489

    Their cross-reference says it fits 1081 and 1084 (and other various models listed)
    They have others to suit Commodore monitors but out of all of them, the HR6489 is the only one that has the same pin layout. The flyback looks identical to the original in every way.
    The actual place I bought it from (local distributor) had the same part number in their catalog for one of my other monitors (not the original Philips I bought myself back in '85) but listed it as suiting 1084AU (mine is 1081AU). At au$45 each I figured I'd just buy them and try and at least one should work since at least one has an exact matching part number. Prior to ordering I had no idea they were made by HRdiemen. I ordered the one that matched and the HR6489 is what arrived in the post.

    The differences on the PCB were mostly related to one of the video chips used and it's placement but basically the same.
    The Philips OEM link filenames were named as 1081 but yes they are 1084 schems. according to Ray Carlsens pages, this is the schem for the 1081....
    http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarls.../1081/MAIN.jpg
    Looks like not exactly my model though because that schem has number 3138 105 21581 (mine is 3138 103 30854)
    I didn't compare every part but all of the major TDA ICs are the same. Also all of the pins on the HRdiemen schematic for the HR6489 match the 1081 schematic flyback connections. I think if it was very different it wouldn't work at all. But it does work.
    This is where the problem gets impossible because there are so many different versions of Commodore monitors and most of them don't have available schematics.
    The 1084 flybacks have a totally different pin layout in a half-circle and mine is a rectangle so it looks to me like this flyback is correct for this model. But it may not be 100% compatible and impossible to know for sure because of the vast variety of Commodore models out there in the wild.

    Anyway it works but with jailbars. It's more pronounced on the workbench screen but they are less noticeable or virtually invisible when playing games.
    Talking to a friend who repairs monitors he said the lines could probably be reduced or fixed by adding a capacitor or resistor somewhere.
    If there isn't an easy fix I'll live with it (assuming you or someone else can't help?)
    Last edited by fordav1; 14th May 2015 at 09:59.

  9. #109
    resistance is futile! Amibayer! roy_bates's Avatar
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    does yours have the vcr switch on the back? and it works I,E: has continuity across it when pushed in and out,worth a try i suppose.

    it apparently is to allow for odd sync signals.i never use it though.(on mine it doesnt really do anything)

    did you change the hot transistor when you changed the flyback? i forgot to ask.

    also,did you do anything to the power supply? check voltages on the main rail feeding the flyback i always check it when i replace them.it should be around 125-130 volts dc.
    also check the capacitors on the supply.a bad one there might give that effect.and may show onscreen as distortion.
    its not impossible for this to happen,especially when a flyback dies.it can put sustained load on the smps supply sending parts bad.
    and diodes on the mains end before the supply to turn it into dc...
    thats all i can think of off the top of my head...

    i have to assume you know how to check those
    Last edited by roy_bates; 14th May 2015 at 10:37.
    i have got too much hardware,it would only hurt your eyes to look at it here

  10. #110
    Inactive Member fordav1's Avatar
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    the voltage on the PSU was ok
    Ignoring the ones that were dead, I didn't do anything else to the electronics because this Philips 1081 worked. there was only a high pitched squealing but the picture was perfect. I didn't see any point messing with parts that are working fine as-is. the problem only occurred after changing the flyback and only the flyback was touched. the others had caps, HOT and other stuff changed but have the very same fault anyway.
    I just tried the VCR switch. it shifts the picture horizontally 1 pixel to the right. no effect on actual picture or quality. so basically it does nothing.

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