1084S monitor fried tonight *(

jay

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My beloved 1084S broke tonight :cry:

I was playing about with my newly-purchased GVP DSS8+ that I received today,
I nipped to get some dinner and when I came back:
  • black screen
  • High-pitched whining
  • No LED

This is where shouts of 'busted flyback' resound at every twist and turn of my google searches.

I'm gutted. Love that monitor.
I have my Amiga 1200 and my C64 hooked up to it and made a special Luma/Chroma cable for my c64.
The colours and sharpness were fantastic until this happened tonight. Not one thing wrong with it in the 3 years since I aquired it from a very careful, original owner.

I'm not sure what the repair cost would be, assuming I can find anyone to try and repair it in the Sheffield/Yorkshire area.
But if I buy another then it's life expectancy may not be long either.
Is there anyone that could advise on a possible repair solution in my area?

I'm quite nervous about opening it up and doing any repair work myself. Last year I soldered an audio cable onto the speaker terminals of the inside of a TV and got a very nasty shock when I touched the jack lead end when going to plug it into my mixer :oops: Shouldn't really admit that but :whistle:

As it stands I can't use my Amiga now... I've got a Blizzard mkIII 30/50 winging it's way to me too :(

I use a 22" widescreen LCD monitor (DVI and VGA only) with my PC but I don't think there is a solution for me to connect both my C64's and my Amiga to it and have perfect sync, resolution and colours.

I'll stop whining now... wish my 1084S would dammit!

Jimladd
 
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hikey

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People always jump on the 'broken flyback' bandwagon on these
monitors, but in all the years i've been repairing them
i've rarely seen a bad flyback. If it is one of these 1084's:
http://www.amiga-resistance.info/download_photos/1084S-P_1.JPG
It's quite common for the PSU board to develop a fault which
causes the whining noise you've got.
If you get stuck, i could repair it for you but you'd need to ship
it to Bristol; or i could offer a refurbished exchange unit, I
have a whole selection of various 1084 monitors available.
If you do want to try and repair it yourself, the PSU board is quite easy to remove. I have spare PSU boards available also (but i'd want your faulty/suspect one sent back to me)
 

jay

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Thanks hikey.

Car - ~£45 petrol
Train return - £73 :wooha:
Royal Mail - £40 (I don't have tons of faith in careful delivery of a fragile and heavy monitor).
hmmm.
PSU option sounds like it's the winner, even though there's no guarantee that's the prob.
Will PM you.
Thank you.
 

rkauer

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I'm in the flyback bandwagon, as my Daewoo unit simply died on me. At least the LOPT is cheap here.

In Europe HR charges an arm and a leg for it (maybe another internal organ too).:(

BTW: most of the time the problem is related to bad capacitors on the power supply area, then the flyback itself and at last the horizontal circuit (transistor & 1mH choke coil).
 

jay

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Just thought I'd add about the whining:

  • Switch the power on and there is a high-pitched whine.
  • When you switch the power button to off the high-pitched whine takes 11 seconds to wind down (high to low pitch) to silence. It sounds just like a high-pitched air-raid siren winding down.
 

UberFreak

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My vote is a fried HOT.
My 1084S suffered the same fate last week, I'm going to replace the HOT as soon as I find some time for it.
 

jay

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My vote is a fried HOT.
My 1084S suffered the same fate last week, I'm going to replace the HOT as soon as I find some time for it.

What's a HOT?
A something, something transistor?
 

hikey

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the HOT is the horizontal output transistor, but if that failed it would have most likely taken out the fuse too, so it would be completely dead.
The 'winding down' noise you're getting is from the large filter capacitor discharging in the power supply. As I said in my PM, if you can remove your power supply board - or get someone to do it for you - I'm happy to send you one to test.
 

UberFreak

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There are many circuit designs where a shorted HOT will not cause the main fuse to blow, I've repaired plenty of TVs that were built this way.
 

Tomse

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Ahh the joy of "real" electronics, not that SMD-throw-away-module you get in todays computers.

I wish you good luck in repairing your monitor, it's definitely worth it :)
 

Tajmaster

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Thanks hikey.

Car - ~£45 petrol
Train return - £73 :wooha:
Royal Mail - £40 (I don't have tons of faith in careful delivery of a fragile and heavy monitor).
hmmm.
PSU option sounds like it's the winner, even though there's no guarantee that's the prob.
Will PM you.
Thank you.

Hi Jay

Ive got a Philips CM8833 MK2 monitor here you could have on the condition you pick it up :) I read your thread and tested it so it works fine and youre welcome to have it. You will need to wedge a piece of plastic or card into the switch as it does not stay in the "on" position most of the time (a common fault) but it work great as can be seen in the pic.

You will need the power lead (standard kettle lead) and either an RGB lead or standard RCA lead (red,yellow,white AV lead you most likely have no doubt).

Let me know whether you want it or not (y)

Taj
 

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Tomse

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this is one of the best monitors IMHO it can use a 23d-sub -> 9d-sub cable.
gives a fantastic picture.

and it's truly a great gift tajmaster parts with :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
 

Tajmaster

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this is one of the best monitors IMHO it can use a 23d-sub -> 9d-sub cable.
gives a fantastic picture.

and it's truly a great gift tajmaster parts with :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

Indeed it is a briliant monitor, I have 2 (of which this is one) and my dad used to use them for the CCTV at his place for years.

The RGB cable shouldnt be hard to find via Amibay, if I had a spare Id pass it on but luckily the monitor also has the standard composite port for video so you can use a common as muck lead to connect it up to whatever old skool console you like :) (if it has composite out of course!LOL!)
 

jay

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Hey thanks Tajmaster. You are most kind.
I have a working PSU board on it's way to me which I'm going to replace with the existing one in my 1084S. I hope that works, but if not I would drive up to Bradford like a shot (if it's still available ofc).
Thank you.
 

Tajmaster

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Hey thanks Tajmaster. You are most kind.
I have a working PSU board on it's way to me which I'm going to replace with the existing one in my 1084S. I hope that works, but if not I would drive up to Bradford like a shot (if it's still available ofc).
Thank you.

Youre welcome mate :) Just PM me if you need it, I have no intenetion of listing it to sell as I cant be arsed with posting a monitor! lol :D
 

Merlin

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@ Tajmaster

If Jay's not up for that monitor, I could be... :whistle:

I could pick up from yours if need be.

Have a think about it and let me know.
 

Tajmaster

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@ Tajmaster

If Jay's not up for that monitor, I could be... :whistle:

I could pick up from yours if need be.

Have a think about it and let me know.

If Jays PSU replacement works out and he doesnt need it youre welcome to it Merlin (y)
 

Merlin

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OK Taj, thanks.

We'll wait until we get feedback from Jay that his monitor is fixed before arranging anything.
 

psodas

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@ Jay

For the Philips chassis monitor, like yours the LOPT fault is a 90% standard de facto. The <<small>> horizontal transformer, short his windings and the result is this fine pitch noise.

Ok, my offer is the above. If you can remove your pcb and send to me, I can check that for you, and after a look for what it need for spares only, I can send you back repaired only for that cost. :)

From a recent transfer from Germany, it cost me only 10 euros. The same I believe it will cost and your own.

Friendly Panos.;)
 

jay

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@ Jay

For the Philips chassis monitor, like yours the LOPT fault is a 90% standard de facto. The <<small>> horizontal transformer, short his windings and the result is this fine pitch noise.

Ok, my offer is the above. If you can remove your pcb and send to me, I can check that for you, and after a look for what it need for spares only, I can send you back repaired only for that cost. :)

From a recent transfer from Germany, it cost me only 10 euros. The same I believe it will cost and your own.

Friendly Panos.;)

I've got a working, tested PSU board (the same horizontal board you're talking about I believe) on it's way to me from hikey atm. I'm gonna replace that and cross my fingerz, legs and all that jazz and hope that that sorts the problem thanks m8.

---------- Post added at 05:32 ---------- Previous post was at 05:07 ----------

I gotta give a big shout out to these proper monitors. The 1084S does/did a marvellous job for me, plus it's good that I can have my C64 and Amiga connected at the same time... and the colours are/were really good. I'm an analogue man at heart! Used to run a night called All Things Electric where I also DJ'd... was all about fat organic electronic analogue sounds.

Bedroom studio gear atm:
Roland SH09, RS09, TR808, TR606, TR727, Korg MS20, X0Xb0X, Casio FZ-1 x 2, Yamaha DX9, Sequential TOM (broken), Roland MC-4, Roland CSQ-100, Korg MS02, DBX 118, DBX 119, DBX 120A, DBX 386, Lexicon PCM 70, Lexicon LXP-1, UREI/JBL 7110 x2, Alesis 3630, Akai MPC 2500, Kenton Pro 4, 7 Nintendo gameboys, LSDJ, Circuit bent Speak and Spell, Voice changing megaphone (soon to be circuit bent), Boss DD5, Boss DS-1, EHX LPB-1, Ibanez FL9 Flanger, Allen & Heath GS3 24 track mixing desk, Mackie Onyx 1220, 5 breadbin C64's (feedback and output mod on one), 3 C64C's, C128, 1541U, Datel c64 midi cart, 2 Amiga 1200's (one with CF HD and pcmcia CF adapter. Blizzard 1230 MKIII 30/50 32mb ram on it's way to me right now), GVP DSS8+ sampler, Midi Master interface, Amiga 500, RME Fireface 800

I love my hardware :p

But I got made redundant so I'm skint atm :Doh:

The real thing is always better than emulation. The convenience of emulation doesn't make up for the final result IMO... especially when it comes to sound.

I guess this is somewhat of a slightly belated "HI ALL" post from a new Amibay user.

Hi :)

Jim
 
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