Broken power button on Philips monitor!

Powerpie5000

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Does anyone here know if it's easy to fix or replace a busted power switch on an old Philips 8833-II monitor?

The power button will not stick or stay pushed in... It clicks when pressed but just pops out again when i let go of it and turns the monitor off :( This seems to be a common problem with Philips monitors!

Any help or advice is appreciated, Cheers :cool:
 

davideo

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The one that's in transit to you as we speak has a knack to it.

It sometimes needs a little flick to make it turn on/off.

I've heard of people changing these switches but it can be a bit dangerous unless you take full discharge precautions
:explode

Dave G :cool:
 

Powerpie5000

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The one that's in transit to you as we speak has a knack to it.

It sometimes needs a little flick to make it turn on/off.

I've heard of people changing these switches but it can be a bit dangerous unless you take full discharge precautions
:explode

Dave G :cool:

The one i'm receiving from you should be fine as it's possible to turn it on and keep it on :) I will be using that one with my A600 but the one for my A500 will not stay on as the switch pops back out when pressed.... just thought there might be an easy way to fix it :)

Also do these Philips monitors work well with A1200's as i've not tried them with AGA games etc... or will a Commodore or Microvitec monitor be better if there are any differences? Cheers (y)
 

Kin Hell

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@ powerpie5000

The Phillips monitor is a true RGB monitor, so there will be no issues with your AGA what so ever. Be sure to use the RGB out of the Amiga rather than the Yellow Phono Composite. - I'm sure you already know this though. (y)

If you have to have the "knack" to turn anything on with these kind of switches, it usually means the sprung latching mechanism inside is partially broken & replacement is really the only option. Some strong & very sticky tape might hold it in, but it depends on the tension of the spring used inside the switch. ;)

Kin
 

Powerpie5000

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Thanks for the info Kin (y) I only use RGB whenever possible as composite tends to look horrible!

I also posted this over at EAB and had a couple of suggestions including the use of velcro :LOL: Someone also replaced their power button with a rocker switch. I was thinking about mounting a toggle switch somewhere on the monitor but a rocker switch may be a better idea and maybe i can get it to fit in the original power button hole :)
 

Firthy2002

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The CM8833 MkII will work fine with an A1200. I speak from experience.

The switch on ours was a bit dodgy by the time I sold it, coincidentally.
 

Kin Hell

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@ Powerpie5000

Nice find m8y. :nod:
A self tapping screw through a simple retaining latch. Without tightening the screw fully, it should allow the latch to swing off the button to turn it off.
Very ingenious, though I would advise caution on the length of screw and position, so as not to foul with anything electrical inside the monitor case. This could be employed for all monitors with the same switch malfunction, though I would expect the internal electrical layouts to be different on other monitors.

Kin
 

chain

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rkauer

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I changed the one in an A1942 I use to have. The only difference from the original is the newest one have round contact pins instead the old plain pins.
 

jope

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Dudes, don't mess around with toothpicks and self tapping screws.

The switch is still available from many electronic stockists and is very easy to replace. Just have enough self control to stop yourself from fondling the solder side of the monitor's motherboard when replacing it and you will be fine.

In the 8833-II and 1084-P2, the PSU assembly is integrated to the motherboard (and the switch faces backwards), in older 8833s and 1084-P1s, the PSU is on a piece of black plastic and can be easily slid out (the switch is in the front panel).

I actually replaced the switches in my old 1084s with ones from AT PC cases. The AT switches are much more robust, but I had to bend the legs a bit in order to be able to slide the PSU back in.

To save yourself the trouble, just desolder the old switch and use that as reference when ordering the new one. I'm pretty sure that any new replacement switch will outlast the rest of the monitor.
 

TheCorfiot

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@Jope

Thanks for the tips my friend. (y)

I am sooooo happy to see you around here on a regular basis

Regards
TC :cool:
 

Merlin

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They are very similar to the latching power switches on old AT power supplies.. (hint)....
 

rkauer

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I bought a new switch replacement last week for my last 1084S (I will sell it to Brazilian MSX users in a very near future).

Cost me R$5,00 (~£2) on an electronic street store.
 

Powerpie5000

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Thanks for the suggestions guys (y)

I will de-solder the switch and buy a new one... I'm sure i will be able to find a replacement in the UK :)
 
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