monitor woes

PymerOne

Noob pur sang
AmiBayer
Joined
Jul 16, 2010
Posts
515
Country
Netherlands, Europe
Region
NoordHolland, Far side of civilisation's border.
Dear All,

A friend had a loose db9 on his 1084s, i dropped a working 1084s there and took the defective one home.
Although i am usually the first to shout: "monitor contains lethal elec-tricks, dont mess with that" i just had to try...
Opened it, saw all pins (and supports) of db9 make just accidental contact with their solderblobs.
Cured that safely and carefully....eazy.
Now when i test the monitor it holds a steady, sharp and bright picture for 3 seconds and then it starts rolling.
Switch it off for 10 seconds, after 3 seconds of perfectness same error.
Any clues on what part of the monitormainboard i can focus on (within safety limits)?

Grtz, PymerOne.
 

gehtjanx

New member
Banned
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Posts
256
Country
Austria
Region
Vienna
Hello,

Connectors should be safe to solder in monitors, no problem.

Sadly, I'm no monitor expert. But I know that scrolling if the frequency (kHz?) is not right. On SX64 there is a screw/adjustment (outside) where you can set it up. If you set it wrong, picture will be rolling, think that is the same effect you want to discribe.

So can be possible set it up from outside or inside with a screw/adjustment.

Also check the other switches or adjustment screws that are visible from outside, cound be a bad contact???

Also don't hook up other devices, had a 1081 where you can only have one signal at one time, while 1084 can switch between two signals. :blink:


Don't know, but that what I can tell about, hope it helps, if not, please don't throw things after me ;)

gehtjanx
 

rkauer

Amiga fanboy
Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Posts
10,337
Country
Brazil
Region
São Leopoldo, RS
Bad soldering/trace on the synchronizing circuit. It comes from the Vertical+Horizontal or Composite sync pin to a chip.

Pending on the 1084 model (Phillips or Daewoo) I can lend you the schematic to search for the trace and route a wire from one point to another.

Just don't mess with the black sealed transformer with a red wire going to the tube and you are safe.
 

PymerOne

Noob pur sang
AmiBayer
Joined
Jul 16, 2010
Posts
515
Country
Netherlands, Europe
Region
NoordHolland, Far side of civilisation's border.
All help appeciated, thanxx ;)
I will check all switches and potmeters, while making sure i dont touch the transformer.
Also i will test other input ports (one at a time) to hopefully pinpoint the cause of this problem.
Schematics would be greatly appeciated ;)
It says "1084s-P1 made in Taiwan" on the id-tag, P1 sounds like Phillips, Taiwan sounds like Deawoo????

Grtz, PymerOne.
 

John58

Member
AmiBayer
Joined
Aug 16, 2010
Posts
419
Country
UK
Region
Teesside
Here is the circuit diagram of the 1084s not sure if it’s a D1 or D2 and a picture of the main board. Hope they help you with your problem.


1084S-D.gif


10.jpg
 

PymerOne

Noob pur sang
AmiBayer
Joined
Jul 16, 2010
Posts
515
Country
Netherlands, Europe
Region
NoordHolland, Far side of civilisation's border.
Thnxx RKauer and Jomor58.
With great help like this maybe even a noob like me can look good ;)

Grtz, PymerOne.
 

PymerOne

Noob pur sang
AmiBayer
Joined
Jul 16, 2010
Posts
515
Country
Netherlands, Europe
Region
NoordHolland, Far side of civilisation's border.
Dear All,

Becaus bro asked me to return the soldering iron i borrowed i just had to try one last time....now or never style :)
Probably by accident i may have hit the wright/loose solderblob, because the monitor now holds a steady image for days on end :D
Best guess is that the 6 big blobs under the transformator were a bit low on lead....those and the black lead that goes from mainboard to tube-end
are the ones i concentrated on.
Maybe best if i buy a soldering iron for myself....gets rid of those pesky now-or-never urges :)

Grtz, PymerOne.
<edit>Thanks all for helping/enduring me :) </edit>
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom