Uh-oh. Trying to be too clever for my own good...

Megatron-UK

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Well, I thought I'd be clever and desolder the DIL-14 crystal on my accelerator and replace it with a nice socket instead. It all went well; the crystal came off pretty easily, the socket on and soldered neatly (for my standards, anyway), no solder bridges that I can see, no burnt traces.

dil14-a.jpg


dil14-b.jpg


Then it all went pair shaped....

It doesn't work any more :eek:

Original 40MHz crystal, or either of my two new 50 and 56MHz ones. Nothing. The system won't boot with the accelerator installed.

I don't know what I've done; I've done much smaller repairs than this before, and I'm sure I haven't damaged anything.... but he's dead Jim. :(

I guess I'll have to try taking the socket back off again.... oh what fun....

---------- Post added at 16:43 ---------- Previous post was at 16:11 ----------

Socket is off again.... and .... I can't see what the problem is!

dil14-c.jpg


dil14-d.jpg


Everything looks clean :nuts: Only thing I can do is try again. :dry:
 

JLPedro

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The solder bobs sure look very close to other tracks.... or maybe you hit an middle layer track, pretty sure this is more than one layer pcb.
 

Megatron-UK

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Tried putting the socket on a second time; still no luck. I'm 99.999% sure I haven't bridged any of the tracks. It's possible a middle layer is damaged, though I don't know how I could have done that.

Oh well, I guess this means I should start looking for another board! Perhaps something better than a 68030 so I don't feel I have to squeeze a few more percent out of it!

Hmmm... perhaps a nice Blizzard 1240 + SCSI.

Guess that'll teach me to be a clever clogs though! :LOL:
 

JLPedro

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Don't give up just yet. I'm no hardware wizard, i'm sure someone else can give you some direction on bringing the tayfun back.
 

stachu100

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@Megatron-UK,
Sorry about that. :(

But:
I'm ready to buy this card if you could't get her back to life.
Please PM me if you are interested.
 

Zetr0

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I dont think that theres was nothing wrong with you socket installation, only the orientation of the crystal.

I would suggest you confirm the orientation of the current (original) resonator and chage your setup to that.

To find you will need to buzz out the following

which of the 4 pins is +5volts,
which is clock
and to confirm, which is ground.

good luck and let us know how you get on.
 

Megatron-UK

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I definitely have the crystal oriented in the correct direction - I made sure to note the way the original one was fitted before removing it (pin 1, or the 'dot', was closest to the RAM chips).
 

Zetr0

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@megatron

if you know the pinout to the small 40Mhz resonator then thats good, but I couldn't find a pinout for it.

the only reaons the card would not power up with just a simple socket change would be if the oscialtor you installed was

1. not pumping
2. not correctly orientated

Looking at your soldering it looks perfectly fine - you already tested a few "known working" oscilators and still no joy, so that only really leaves number 2.

take a moment to buzz out ground, clock and +5v to be absolutely sure, as that resonator might not have the same pinout as a standard quartz 14pin DILL crystal oscilator.
 

Kin Hell

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When-ever you de-solder these baby's, you must make sure you you don't pull the core out of the socket. It's a tube ring connecting all the PCB layers together. I've done several over the years & only with a soldering iron, one leg at a time. You gotta heat & push a bit on each leg to almost wiggle the X-Tal loose. If you over push, it's bye-bye core link tube & fubar there-after. Chuck a 25Watt Iron on each leg & make sure the Solder flows. Whack a pile of Flux on the legs & make sure you flow solder into the joint's. Let cool between applications & keep fluxing with more solder. You might be lucky. :|

Zetr0 is the Flux Master & his advice above is spot on.

Brilliant Macro Pics btw. (y)

Kin
 

Megatron-UK

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Brilliant Macro Pics btw. (y)
Kin

Really? They're taken with my 10 year old Canon Powershot A40. A whole 2 megapixels!

I'll give it another try and put plenty of flux on, it can't hurt to do it one more time.

---------- Post added at 11:09 ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 ----------

@megatron

if you know the pinout to the small 40Mhz resonator then thats good, but I couldn't find a pinout for it.

the only reaons the card would not power up with just a simple socket change would be if the oscialtor you installed was

1. not pumping
2. not correctly orientated

Looking at your soldering it looks perfectly fine - you already tested a few "known working" oscilators and still no joy, so that only really leaves number 2.

take a moment to buzz out ground, clock and +5v to be absolutely sure, as that resonator might not have the same pinout as a standard quartz 14pin DILL crystal oscilator.

Doh! Well guess who's multimeter has just been found left on, and flat, in the drawer? ..... :Doh:

---------- Post added at 11:22 ---------- Previous post was at 11:09 ----------

Found the spec of the original Raltek C015050 40MHz oscillator:

http://www.raltron.com/products/pdfspecs/clock_co15-co19.pdf
1 N/C
7 Gnd
8 Output
14 Vcc (5v DC)

The 56Mhz crystal is an Ecliptek EC1100:

http://www.ecliptek.com/SpecSheetGenerator/specific.aspx?PartNumber=EC1100-20.000M
1 N/C
7 Gnd
8 Ouput
14 Supply Voltage (5v DC)

Can't find a datasheet for the Kyocera KX0-01-1 50MHz crystal, but I assume it's likely to be the same.
 

Zetr0

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Okay, armed with that knowledge lets see what we can see


can you confirm that you are orientating the Osc with the lead (dot) in the top right hand corner as you look at the bottom of the card.

(check the image)
 

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Megatron-UK

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Yep, that's correct.

New problem though - I've had the socket in and out a few too many times now and I managed to snap one of the 4 legs just now trying to align it up for another try. I', pretty limited with the equipment I've got here (a Maplin 50w fine tip iron and a solder sucker... and that's about it).

I have just realised though, under where the 14-DIL package oscillator was, there are 4 pads for what looks like a surface mount package (which I've seen in some pictures of these Taifun cards). Is it worth trying one of those instead? It looks a little easier to solder, and if I *have* managed to damage the through-holes for the 14-DIL package, perhaps this would get around it?
 

Zetr0

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@megatron

hmmm, well looking at your solder work, it look perfectly fine to me.

I just found this image (www.amiga-hardware.com)
talfun_back.jpg



It shows the 14pin (Full Can) Oscilator installed on the card.


I think at the moment, you need to stop and take a breather, relax and pop-into town to you local hobbyist electroncics shop and ask for some socket strips, or 14pin DILL socket.

Personally I prefer machine turned - gold-plated - socket strips, these have a next to no slew rate and provide clean signal transfer, unfortunately with some DIL sockets, (pending on both their cheapness and pin-composition) can act as a resitor and really disrupt very tight signals, like oscilators.

So take some time and trip into town =)

releax.... listern to enya / enigma.... take the missues with you and enjoy a little afternoon shoping, and forget about this adapter for now...

I honestly fear that you may inadvertantly damage this card should you continue without a good break.... trust me.... I mention this from experience.
 

Megatron-UK

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@megatron

hmmm, well looking at your solder work, it look perfectly fine to me.

I just found this image (www.amiga-hardware.com)
talfun_back.jpg



It shows the 14pin (Full Can) Oscilator installed on the card.

Yep, that's the orientation of the original oscillator, and the direction in which I placed it back once the socket was added.

I think at the moment, you need to stop and take a breather, relax and pop-into town to you local hobbyist electroncics shop and ask for some socket strips, or 14pin DILL socket.

Personally I prefer machine turned - gold-plated - socket strips, this have a next to no slew rate and provice clean signal transfer, unfortunately with some DILL sockets, pending on both their cheapness and pin-composition this can disrupt very tight signals, like oscilators.

So take some time and trip into town =)

releax.... listern to enya / enigma.... take the missues with you and enjoy a little afternoon shoping, and forget about this adapter for now...

I honestly fear that you may inadvertantly damage this card should you continue without a good break.... trust me.... I mention this from experience.

Probably good advice :coffee:

In the meantime, if a Blizzard 1240 or 1260 + SCSI kit comes up, I think I'll go for it.... but come back to this and try to fix it.

Thanks for the help.
 
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