White Multiregion 60Hz HD Megadrive

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AmiNeo

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Hey guys, I have been officially challenged by a certain Mr R0jaWs to create the ultimate Sega Megadrive. This will be the official thread for the project which I aim to complete before the year is out.

First thing I need however is a little info.

What kind of paint is best for respraying the plastics?

Where is good to buy the switches needed for the mod?

and finally, how many people are excited by this? I know I am :lol:
 
I am moderately interested.

"Moderately" in this case meaning Very. :thumbsup:
 
Ooh me too, me too! Cant help you on the parts, but in denmark we ask car shops to spray those kind of things. They usually do it very cheap and car paint is the king!

So what'll it be? A language, region and overclock modded mk1?


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Yup, the works! In classic Sega colours, White with blue paint if I can get hold of a Sega logo tatoo / stencil or something from somewhere too. :lol:

---------- Post added at 09:47 ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 ----------

Just picked up the switches from www.retrogamingcables.co.uk :thumbsup:
 
I'm sure there'll be a logo sticker out there. Otherwise you can always make a stencil yourself. Sounds like a fun project. Dont forget to take wip pictures! :)


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Eugh! Sticker!? I aint using no tacky sticker! :lol:



Aye there will be pictures taken at every stage possible :D :thumbsup:
 
Great idea - really looking forward to seeing this project take shape!
 
Thanks Peter, rofl at your sig. :thumbsup:

---------- Post added at 11:32 ---------- Previous post was at 11:16 ----------

What you think guys? anyone got experience doing this? do I need a primer, paint and laquer? or just the paint?
 
1. Thoroughly clean the plastic with a de-greasing cleaner. Any oils from skin or other particles will interfere with the primer and ultimately cause a paint job to peel and flake.

2. Use medium grit sandpaper to sand the surface of the plastic. Make sure to create some good texture on the plastic. The primer will need some rough spots to sink into in order to properly adhere to plastic.

3. Use a damp rag to wipe away all sanding dust from the surface of the plastic.

4. Apply a thin coat of primer and allow it to dry completely before applying another thin coat. Continue applying thin coats of primer until you can no longer see the plastic through the primer.

5. Shake the can to mix the paint. Hold the can in an upright position 8 to 10 inches from the object. Apply a thin coat of paint by spraying in a sweeping motion from side to side. Allow to rest for 30 seconds and repeat with another thin coat. Applying several thin coats prevents dripping or running and improves the appearance of the final project.

6. Spray on a coat of polyurethane to help prevent scratching. Polyurethane can take up to a week to cure. For best results, wait five to seven days before heavy use.
 
Nice one Blankey :thumbsup:


... this is gonna be a bit pricier than I thought ! lol

---------- Post added at 11:48 ---------- Previous post was at 11:47 ----------

I'll prob have some stuff left over too... If it works out, maybe I'll do a couple more :D

---------- Post added at 11:58 ---------- Previous post was at 11:48 ----------

Thanks for the re-edit blank! very informative :D
 
The original text said to use a roller to apply the top coat of paint - you're painting a megadrive plastic shell, not a wall ... :roll:
 
Since when do you prime walls? or laquer them for that matter??? :lol:

---------- Post added at 12:21 ---------- Previous post was at 12:21 ----------

Paint bought :D

Went with Honda polar while :lol:
 

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@AmiSonicNeo

(copied from my post in this thread)

Firstly I only use acrylic, anything else may damage the plastic, you will need to get your footware on and be ready to go to both your local Halfords and Pound Land.

Now, for the informative bit... =)


1. place all plastics in a dish washer (stop before the drying cycle)

This will remove all the grease and open up the pours of the plastic. Some dishwashers have a drying cycle of 60 degrees C, this may warp thinn plastics, so I advise you to remove it and let it air dry for a couple of hours


2. Ninja into Pound Land

You want to buy atleast two of the base grey acrylic primer. I have used MANY paints, from rediculously expensive, to the absurdly cheap... and this one is the best I have used for this type of work.
2.1 Applying the base Coat(s)

You want to do atleast two layers - give 30 minutes alteast between coats - Ensure that your nozzle is atleast two to two and a half feet away, use short controlled bursts and wipe the nozzle or it may shoot drips... this will ruin the finish, remember to use gentle sweeping arc's with your arm as you apply the paint..

Its important to note that light coats are better than heavy ones.... so its better to do several light coats as this reduces pooling and drips forming on the coat... I should also menition to do the internal edges of the plastic..

Remember to shake the can - any brand for atleast 3 - 5 minutes before use...

Once you are happy with the base coat, place the component in the dishwasher again, and then let it air-dry in a cupboard...

This will reduce any dust or dirt that accumilates while waiting for the top coat.


3. Halfords - have the right colours

I would recommend to take in some untainted Amiga Plastics and find the closest colour match, this will give you the finish you are looking for..

Personally I love two-tone action.. and use the white and grey of the keyboard to plan my colours accordingly.
3.1 Laying down the Top Coats

Either way, always get the colours and the finishing laqure from the same range of products - its important that you give ample time for finishing coats to cure, or they will "cook" when you apply the next layer...
Cooking the coat means the one you are applying has reacted with the one beneth - the acrylic pigments pool within the suspension and it looks like its cracking.

Should this happen, leave the area for 24 hours... when you come back use some fine sand-paper (800 or higher grit) and gently take this area dow to the primer again.. I would suggest you then was the component and then apply a light top coat again - this time leave it for longer

Cooking Layers can happen with dismilar product or grease or foriegn matter on the component. this can also happen when you apply layers too soon as the previous layer is Curing it can bubble up the next layer.

Its important to give extra time between top layers... at the minimum I would say an hour per coat... perhaps longer... no matter if the can say's different.

3.2 Applying the top coat

Like before with the bottom coat, I would suggest LIGHT coats, and build this up.... with the darker primer it will give you somthing to go with... use gentle arcs and small 3 to 4 seconds bursts... then wipe the nozzel. keep the can a good 2 foot away from the target and ensure that a good 4 - 5minutes shaking of the can before use... or the paint could spit and that will ruin the job.

Remember... this is your finishing coat.... take your time and honour the work and effort you put down before... the longer you take the better the finish... the lighter and more number coats you do the better it will look... again give atleast 1 hour between coats... once done.... leave it for 24 - 36 hours to properly cure.... then its onto the final laqure -

3.3 The Final Lacquer

you should get a non-gloss laqure from the same product range as the top-coat paints you purchased earlier - I have Found that Halfords ROCK in this area so find a nice big can and READ the instructions...

Remember to shake this bad-boy for a good 5 minutes - yes you will have super stong arms by the time we are done ;)

I would sugges 2 to 3 coats of laqure - light coats at that... ensure that you give it atleast 40 minutes between coats... personally I give it an hour.

There.... that lot should see you right =)
 
I would interject with that and suggest some added extra's for that Pro finish


1. before you laydown the final laqure coat(s)

Rub-On Dry-wipe Decals

You print out your decals on your bubble jet or laser printer and then cut-out and rub-onto the item... things like logo's / port names etc.

You have a printing sheet and a backing sheet, and this is what gums it all together - as you are going white, this is a good opportunity to go the other sega colour of blue or red - as this would show up very nicely.

You can get these decal sheets from eBay - 3 sheets £5.89 + £ 1.99 postage (eBay.co.uk BIN) - I would recommend to shop about at abit as I am sure you are likely to find a slightly cheaper alternative =)

I would also suggest you download the SEGA font - click here to download from www.dafont.com

With implementations like this its always good to review as much as you can and see if you can improve on it. Sega have released a couple of White machines before so review these, also review other brands that have a White computer / console product as well - see what accents they have put on the unit and if that could apply to your project.

Some minor inspiration for you from my MegaGen Project

Image3.jpg
 
OOOhhh, blue LED, now you're talking! :thumbsup:

---------- Post added at 19:05 ---------- Previous post was at 19:04 ----------

I think I will do what zeets suggested and buy that tatoo / transfer paper, theres no other way I'm going to get the text lables on ther otherwise.

Ill make a nice snazzy Sega logo aswell, maybe even an AMINEO one! :lol: :p
 
Okay, everythings bought except the cabling and an oscellator :thumbsup:
 
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