1084S-P LOPT+HOT replace

Perhaps the placement of the wires affects the tilt - so image is tilted - or rotated? If it's rotated then you usually need to twist the yoke, don't know if there's an adjustment for that.

High pitch sound could be the capacitors, if you really want to extend life to the max you should swap all the electrolytic caps as well.

Screen should be measureable, if it's set too high the x-ray protection shuts it down. See if you can find the service manual there's usually complete setup instructions anda bunch of measurments you can do if you have the needed tools/apparatus.

I'd just set all knobs to centered (brightness and contrast), start something familiar on screen (C64 startup image) and then set "Screen" as low as possible and focus with the sharpest image - nail polish might lock the adjustment screws enough. But let it run for a while before you make adjustments, needs to warm up.
If "Screen" is set to high you'll start seeing other lines that aren't supposed to be visible.
 
Sent an order to Dönberg today for the HR7506, I was expecting a PayPal-window to pop-up, instead I got an e-mail saying "Thank you very much for your order. We will reply as soon as possible.".

Is that how they work?

Seems so:
"We decided not to offer an automatic online shop, as electronic spare parts are a demanding sector and we often have to get back to our customers to obtain or provide more information."
 
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yes i think so,give them time to respond they have to check to see if its in stock youll get an email later to confirm order.

and another to link to payment details etc i think.
 
Yes, they will come back to you with an invoice and payment information. Hope I did not buy the last piece. :(
 
if its ok with all,i normally put thermal grease on the back of the hot as well.
 
That's a good idea, if it's metal however it also needs the isolation of a silicon or mica pad. The one currently in the monitor doesn't have HTC (heat transfer compound), wonder why they saved on that...
 
dont know why they didnt put any on the hot transistor,maybe they thought the large heatsink was enough.

i always put compound on mine,if it requires the sil pad you can put it on both sides of the pad.the part dont get all that hot anyway.

just use the white paste its good enough for this.you wont need much...

if you find any power transistors on the power supply change the paste on those as well bud,it drys up after 20 years.
 
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Got my flyback delivery today, well packed with large plastic cushions in an oversized box containing the little black/yellow box with the flyback. Box had its seal broken and was taped with transparent tape, inside was some green packing peanuts that I assume someone has added, also two rectangular white pieces that fit the box profile.

Ferrite of flyback had a chunk missing, I also noticed there's a crack along the base - no ferrite dust/parts could be found inside the box so I assume they have mysteriously fallen out through the box or was emptied out at some time...









Not happy, have written a complaint do donberg.ie for one of the Höna ladies (höna means chicken(mother) in Swedish so it's a little amusing).

I guess I could put some clamp there and epoxy glue it to prevent it from splitting when turning and off in the next few years, but if you pay full price you expect a perfect item - right?

Some models already have a clamp but the HR7506 is glued instead.
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/...FBT-line-output-font-b-transformer-b-font.jpg
 
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I'm still tempted to try the damaged one, with a little supporting structure...
 
On your pictures I saw that the 2 plastic clips were also missing from your HR Diemen flyback. I used a zip tie to fixate the flyback.

I will try to add a scart connector to my 1084S-P next week. Has anyone of you experience in doing that.
From looking at the schematics I guess I have to:

- close bridge 9289 to connect scart PIN 20 to R406 (mixed sync)
- close bridge 9274 to get switching voltage
- 390 Ohm to R210
- 1k Ohm pulldown to R220
- 75 Ohm to R502
- move white audio cable (R) from scart pins
- put in scart connector
 
centaur2 said:
On your pictures I saw that the 2 plastic clips were also missing from your HR Diemen flyback. I used a zip tie to fixate the flyback.

I will try to add a scart connector to my 1084S-P next week. Has anyone of you experience in doing that.
From looking at the schematics I guess I have to:

- close bridge 9289 to connect scart PIN 20 to R406 (mixed sync)
- close bridge 9274 to get switching voltage
- 390 Ohm to R210
- 1k Ohm pulldown to R220
- 75 Ohm to R502
- move white audio cable (R) from scart pins
- put in scart connector
Click to expand...

i dont think i needed to do the first two steps:)

bare in mind youl have to temporally remove the audio board to fit the scart socket.
 
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centaur2 said:
roy_bates said:
bare in mind youl have to temporally remove the audio board to fit the scart socket.
Click to expand...

Is that hard to do? Seems to be only 2 solder points.
Click to expand...

nah,its not hard at all you just have to be careful not to lift the three traces off the board as its old and the part thats soldered as you probably have seen is quite a thick piece of metal at the lug end.
if you dont remove it youll find it nye on impossible to fit the socket with the audio board in the way as the space under it is just big enough for a right angled socket.

after you fit the scart socket and needed components you can solder the audio lead to the back to one of the pins on the scart socket(itll be a doddle as its an outside pin),there wont be provision for it on the main board(youll see what i mean)

better to do all that first as the space in there is tight,and fit the audio board back on after gives you a bit of elbow room.

by the way, you wont need to fix the flyback down as the pins will hold it firm as they are all around the base,as long as you soldered it flush it wont go anywhere.
the lugs didnt do much on the original anyway,they just helped people like me install it while its being soldered upside down on the board,lol
 
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