A4000 keyboard

  • Thread starter Thread starter CrazyC
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CrazyC

Damn these amiga bills keep adding up
AmiBayer
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May 3, 2012
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Kent
Hi
I have an old a4000 keyboard where one or two of the keys are either requiring a few goes to work or not being registered at all. I figured I would replace the membrane and that would sort it hopefully. So I took it apart but it appears to be one solid hard part, no separate membrane?
Am i missing something or does anyone have any suggestions?
Looking at the PCB it says A2000 on it, but the outer case definitely has the ridges etc.
I dobt really care which it is, i would just like it fully functional. Its has the small ps/2 type connecter with a short cable adapter converting it to a din connector into the amiga.
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I would take it completely apart to give it a thorough clean, as it shows seom dirt on the keycaps, i can only be worth inside.
Beware, no alcohol on the pads but slight friction with the so called paper trick.
 
Big box Amigas keyboards instead of a membrane they use a PCB. It's more durable and easier to repair if needed. After cleaning as Xanxi rightly suggested I would also test continuity (with a multimeter) in the traces used by they keys that are not working.
 
I would take it completely apart to give it a thorough clean, as it shows seom dirt on the keycaps, i can only be worth inside.
Beware, no alcohol on the pads but slight friction with the so called paper trick.
The so-called paper trick?
 
Run a few times the rubber pads of the problematic keys over a plain page of paper. It's abrasive enough to clean the pads without causing any damage.
 
I read online, several years ago, that writing over lightly with a pencil over the contacts can restore functionality. Apparently it is due to the pencil 'lead' (not real lead of course) being an electrical conductor. I tried that with some errant keys on my A3000 keyboard and it worked! Well sort of, they work for something like 8 out 10 presses, which is a lot better than not at all. They still work just as well all these years.

I have since wondered if there may be a better solution, some paint-like conductor like the original contacts perhaps? There appear to be a keyboard repair viscuous substance jar on sale in ebay and other places but I never felt I needed it enough to buy it. If anyone has tried it it'd be good to hear about it.

Hope you fix yours!
 
Silly question, is the lead applied to the contacts on the pcb, or on the back of the keys, or both?
 
It's been many years so memory could be playing trick on me, but I think I tried both on the PCB and behind the keys but only the PCB application made a difference.

In my case, by the time I read about applying the lead, I had already made the mistake of cleaning it with alcohol which is not advisable. So there could have been more of a need for a conductor-like substance in my keyboard, than in yours which may just need cleaning.
 
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