GBA1000 rev.4 BOM

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tom79

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Hi all,

I looking for a complete BOM for the GBA 1000 rev.4 pcb. I can only find partial ones on the internet. Ideally one with Mouser part numbers and/or equivalent part numbers for obsolete parts. Thank you in advance
 
Hey Tom, think I have one I used to source the parts, taken from one of the guys building in the original thread several years back. Not sure how accurate it is but I will send it over once I find it.
 
i lost the bom insert in mouser 7 year ago, but i have the order exported in exel, need update, 20 of 95 are changed or not availlable
 
I'd be really interested in your excel so I can merge it with mine. To my knowledge, the parts list in my previous msg contains no errors. I've used it (with the locator) to build 3 GBA1000s so far.
 
Hey Tom, think I have one I used to source the parts, taken from one of the guys building in the original thread several years back. Not sure how accurate it is but I will send it over once I find it.

That would be great, thanks very much.

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Hi, thanks for the info. I could do with a bit more info regarding the parts though like the capacitors. Does it matter what ohms value they are, and some have different % values, again does this matter what this value is?
 
I could do with a bit more info regarding the parts though like the capacitors. Does it matter what ohms value they are, and some have different % values, again does this matter what this value is?

If you mean ESR resistance, don't bother. Same goes for the tolerance. I used the cheapest tantalum caps I could find, either from Mouser or off eBay and they work fine. As for the operating voltage, rule of thumb is at least twice the power supply voltage. 16V will suffice in most cases, but I'd pick 25V to be extra safe.

Since the values of ceramic caps C75 (7.5pF) and C79 (20pF) are uncommon, i.e. not in the regular E12 range, I would take those slightly more seriously. You could end up with your RTC and/or the flicker fixer being off.

Leave out R31 if the battery is not rechargable. My lithium battery (Saft LS14250) was getting disturbingly warm when powered on.

In case you are wondering about the components marked as "n.b." or otherwise without a value, leave them out. I think "n.b." means "nicht bestückt" (as in "not mounted").

50MHz clock oscillator IC61 can be replaced by 100MHz. In that case IC78 is needed, resistor R122 must be omitted and R135 mounted instead. IC78 acts as a divider by two, providing a 50MHz clock with a guaranteed 50% duty cycle (which is essential).

Directly solder IC27 to the board. It is a high frequency PLL and a socket could affect its operation.

For testing, don't install the 8MB fastram or the 1MB flash just yet. The board should work with only the 2 megs chipram installed (IC7..10), but it will run crippled at 7.1MHz.

The 3 RCA connectors shouldn't be mounted tight to the board but slightly (1-1.5mm) raised for the rear panel of an A1000 to fit nicely. Also, if present, don't solder the prongs from the sub-D connectors to the mounting holes but remove them altogether if you want your board to properly fit into an A1000 case. It has threaded standoffs for every connector.

Notice the RJ9 keyboard connector being upside down compared to the ones on eBay etc.. You need a Molex 95009-7441. The plugs on the original A1000 keyboard cable are also reversed, so beware if you are making your own.

So much for now. I will post more if anything else comes to mind. The GBA1000 is an awesome kit and pure eyecandy when fitted into an A1000 case. Good luck!
 
Last edited:
I could do with a bit more info regarding the parts though like the capacitors. Does it matter what ohms value they are, and some have different % values, again does this matter what this value is?

If you mean ESR resistance, don't bother. Same goes for the tolerance. I used the cheapest tantalum caps I could find, either from Mouser or off eBay and they work fine. As for the operating voltage, rule of thumb is at least twice the power supply voltage. 16V will suffice in most cases, but I'd pick 25V to be extra safe.

Since the values of ceramic caps C75 (7.5pF) and C79 (20pF) are uncommon, i.e. not in the regular E12 range, I would take those slightly more seriously. You could end up with your RTC and/or the flicker fixer being off.

Leave out R31 if the battery is not rechargable. My lithium battery (Saft LS14250) was getting disturbingly warm when powered on.

In case you are wondering about the components marked as "n.b." or otherwise without a value, leave them out. I think "n.b." means "nicht bestückt" (as in "not mounted").

50MHz clock oscillator IC61 can be replaced by 100MHz. In that case IC78 is needed, resistor R122 must be omitted and R135 mounted instead. IC78 acts as a divider by two, providing a 50MHz clock with a guaranteed 50% duty cycle (which is essential).

Directly solder IC27 to the board. It is a high frequency PLL and a socket could affect its operation.

For testing, don't install the 8MB fastram or the 1MB flash just yet. The board should work with only the 2 megs chipram installed (IC7..10), but it will run crippled at 7.1MHz.

The 3 RCA connectors shouldn't be mounted tight to the board but slightly (1-1.5mm) raised for the rear panel of an A1000 to fit nicely. Also, if present, don't solder the prongs from the sub-D connectors to the mounting holes but remove them altogether if you want your board to properly fit into an A1000 case. It has threaded standoffs for every connector.

Notice the RJ9 keyboard connector being upside down compared to the ones on eBay etc.. You need a Molex 95001-7441. The plugs on the original A1000 keyboard cable are also reversed, so beware if you are making your own.

So much for now. I will post more if anything else comes to mind. The GBA1000 is an awesome kit and pure eyecandy when fitted into an A1000 case. Good luck!

OK fantastic. Out of curiosity, where did you get your keyboard connector and power connector?
Yes, it looks great just as a bare motherboard, would be nice if someone made a clear plastic case to show it off
Thanks again.
 
Keyboard connector: Mouser 538-95009-7441 (typo in my previous posting)
Power connector: eBay (e.g. 163582743827, 252925824269)

Watch out for RN4, btw. It is a SIL8 resistor network, containing 4 isolated 68E resistors and not 7 bussed resistors with a common.
 
Keyboard connector: Mouser 538-95009-7441 (typo in my previous posting)
Power connector: eBay (e.g. 163582743827, 252925824269)

Watch out for RN4, btw. It is a SIL8 resistor network, containing 4 isolated 68E resistors and not 7 bussed resistors with a common.

OK great. Do the 3 diodes go on the pcb in a certain way, because there's no marking on the pcb. A good quality picture of your build would be amazing, but not to worry if it's too much trouble. Thank you in advance.
 
Orientation of the diodes is silkscreened onto the board and also visible in the locator I mentioned earlier on.
I don't mean to discourage you or to doubt your skills, but are you sure that you are up to the task?
 

Great stuff. Thank you

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Orientation of the diodes is silkscreened onto the board and also visible in the locator I mentioned earlier on.
I don't mean to discourage you or to doubt your skills, but are you sure that you are up to the task?

Ah yes. Sorry, wasn't looking hard enough. Thanks!
 
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