Closed old xbox mod's UK (basic stuff) "not 360"
- Thread starter ShambleS1980
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ok well probably the chip is lose then. (one of the connections) or if its a 1.6 then possibly 1 of the re build points..
probably just needs some solder re flowed.
probably just needs some solder re flowed.
5 to13 working days till i have some chips back in stock..
"think i will have ran out of hard disks by then lol"
and ty snoozy
remember to keep the 8gb hard disk safe "its softmodded for that xbox"
if the modchip ever fails you can just stick that in the xbox. i have left all the files needed to flash the tsop on there. (and solderd up the flash points for you)
so you can just do 2-3 clicks and you will be hard modded again.
"think i will have ran out of hard disks by then lol"
and ty snoozy
remember to keep the 8gb hard disk safe "its softmodded for that xbox"
if the modchip ever fails you can just stick that in the xbox. i have left all the files needed to flash the tsop on there. (and solderd up the flash points for you)
so you can just do 2-3 clicks and you will be hard modded again.
Hi, do you have any hard drives left and is it a case of just swapping the old 8GB for one your larger ones or do I need to mess around with swapping the IDE cable from the DVD drive etc?
if you have a mod chip or are tsop flashed its easy to install a new hard disk.
if you are softmoded (or not modded at all) its a bit more difficult and you have to cback up the eeprom data then use a pc or cloniong tool to lock the new hard disk..
i do have a few 160gb drives left (not that many)
i do offer the upgrade service for softmods or a chip install + disk upgrade. or a tsop flash with mod chip installed if the flash went wrong + disk upgrade.
but as your in ierland it depends where exactly as to what the cost of postage would be.
if you wanted to buy and install your self thats probably cheaper than sending the xbox back and forth.
let me know what you are thinking and i can see whats possible.
if you are softmoded (or not modded at all) its a bit more difficult and you have to cback up the eeprom data then use a pc or cloniong tool to lock the new hard disk..
i do have a few 160gb drives left (not that many)
i do offer the upgrade service for softmods or a chip install + disk upgrade. or a tsop flash with mod chip installed if the flash went wrong + disk upgrade.
but as your in ierland it depends where exactly as to what the cost of postage would be.
if you wanted to buy and install your self thats probably cheaper than sending the xbox back and forth.
let me know what you are thinking and i can see whats possible.
Yes, I am thinking postage may be expensive to send the whole unit 
This is one hard modded when I bought it. It comes up with xecuter bits when booting. I'll open it up and take a picture in a few days if that will help?
I do have a softmodded one as well that has the old random power issues. What I was thinking of doing was taking the Samsung DVD out of the softmodded one (I heard it's the most reliable) and putting it into the hard modded one with the larger hard drive.
This is one hard modded when I bought it. It comes up with xecuter bits when booting. I'll open it up and take a picture in a few days if that will help?
I do have a softmodded one as well that has the old random power issues. What I was thinking of doing was taking the Samsung DVD out of the softmodded one (I heard it's the most reliable) and putting it into the hard modded one with the larger hard drive.
explain the probs with the softmod, we may be able to fix that.
and if your hard modded all you need is a hard disk and a copy of "hexen" heimdalls xbox engineering disk
put the new hard disk in the xbox, and then boot the xbox with the hexen dvd in the dvd drive
"dvd-r burnt at 4x or slower for best results"
p.s
i forgot to mention that i would prepair a hard disk for you. but i would need t know which bios you were using before hand. or i would need you to reflash the bios, to guarantee the disk would show up properly with all the files and stuff accessible.
i can walk you through the process of re flashing your mod chip if needed, (probably better to update the bios so you know its fully capable of using larger drives)
but if you wanted to buy a drive els where, then you would just use hexen as stated.
and if your hard modded all you need is a hard disk and a copy of "hexen" heimdalls xbox engineering disk
put the new hard disk in the xbox, and then boot the xbox with the hexen dvd in the dvd drive
"dvd-r burnt at 4x or slower for best results"
p.s
i forgot to mention that i would prepair a hard disk for you. but i would need t know which bios you were using before hand. or i would need you to reflash the bios, to guarantee the disk would show up properly with all the files and stuff accessible.
i can walk you through the process of re flashing your mod chip if needed, (probably better to update the bios so you know its fully capable of using larger drives)
but if you wanted to buy a drive els where, then you would just use hexen as stated.
Thanks 
With the softmodded one, the machine exhibits a range of problems with the power. Sometimes the power button doesn't work but the eject button does, although when you close the tray doing it this way it will sometimes power off again. It after a few hours playing it will shut itself down again. If you leave it plugged in it will switch itself on by itself.
What I've found as I am trying to play KOTOR 2 on it is just leave it unplugged over night, plug it back in and turn it on and once you've set the clock its good for a few more hours.
I've read it can be the traces on the child board containing the buttons that can get corroded over time, or Bryce suggested a few months back it could be one of the chips that has failed as he believed it was unlikely to be corrosion based on how I described it to him. I tried to take the machine apart over the bank holiday weekend but it seemed a lot of hassle to get to that board behind the front facia so I gave up before I broke it
With the softmodded one, the machine exhibits a range of problems with the power. Sometimes the power button doesn't work but the eject button does, although when you close the tray doing it this way it will sometimes power off again. It after a few hours playing it will shut itself down again. If you leave it plugged in it will switch itself on by itself.
What I've found as I am trying to play KOTOR 2 on it is just leave it unplugged over night, plug it back in and turn it on and once you've set the clock its good for a few more hours.
I've read it can be the traces on the child board containing the buttons that can get corroded over time, or Bryce suggested a few months back it could be one of the chips that has failed as he believed it was unlikely to be corrosion based on how I described it to him. I tried to take the machine apart over the bank holiday weekend but it seemed a lot of hassle to get to that board behind the front facia so I gave up before I broke it
if the dvd ejects itself when it gets pluged in, then you probably have corroded trace(s) on the actual mother board (not the front pannel pcb)
(probably from a leaking clock capasitor)
the front pannel pcb is prety easy to take off buy you have to remove the whole front of the xbox 1st. that will let you push down a clip and then you can push the power button and the front pannel pcb will pop out.
if the xbox turns off by its self after a set amount of time that could be due to over heating.
you could try and set your dashboard to a higer temp cut off point.
the official MS dash should not turn off the xbox fully but would error out with red and amber flashing lights if it was over heating.
without looking at it its hard to tell.
but my diagnosise would be.
its a 1.0-1.5 xbox with a clock capasitor that has leaked.
some damage was caused to the mother board damaging atleast 1 trace which causes the xbox to always power on. and dissabled the power button.
The console may also be over heating and so turns off.
Its unlikley. But a lesser issue could be that the front pannel pcb is shorting out on the sheilding (or other item in the xbox)
you can see the solder points on the back of the front panlel pcb without removing it..
you may want to try and insulate those.
p.s
i edited my previous post.
(probably from a leaking clock capasitor)
the front pannel pcb is prety easy to take off buy you have to remove the whole front of the xbox 1st. that will let you push down a clip and then you can push the power button and the front pannel pcb will pop out.
if the xbox turns off by its self after a set amount of time that could be due to over heating.
you could try and set your dashboard to a higer temp cut off point.
the official MS dash should not turn off the xbox fully but would error out with red and amber flashing lights if it was over heating.
without looking at it its hard to tell.
but my diagnosise would be.
its a 1.0-1.5 xbox with a clock capasitor that has leaked.
some damage was caused to the mother board damaging atleast 1 trace which causes the xbox to always power on. and dissabled the power button.
The console may also be over heating and so turns off.
Its unlikley. But a lesser issue could be that the front pannel pcb is shorting out on the sheilding (or other item in the xbox)
you can see the solder points on the back of the front panlel pcb without removing it..
you may want to try and insulate those.
p.s
i edited my previous post.
Sorry, I've not had a chance to open the hard modded xbox but I will do this weekend to remove the time capacitor. This is the softmodded one, what do you think doc? Can she be saved or shall I let her go to the big xbox retirement home in the sky and lose the 10+ hours I've stuck into KOTOR 2?
What's my best option if I can save her? Last time I desoldered something I took the track with it so can I wobble it free and use a q-tip and lemon juice to clear it up???
What's my best option if I can save her? Last time I desoldered something I took the track with it so can I wobble it free and use a q-tip and lemon juice to clear it up???
thats the clock cap.. if you cant desolder it wiggle it left and right like a rotten tooth it will pop off..
clean that up with a cloth.
then use some vinegar or lemon juice to clean up more. (maybe use an old tooth brush)
then get some alcohol iso-propily 99% is what id usually use, if you dont have that, Acetone free nail polish remover will work fine.
that should be good then..
clean that up with a cloth.
then use some vinegar or lemon juice to clean up more. (maybe use an old tooth brush)
then get some alcohol iso-propily 99% is what id usually use, if you dont have that, Acetone free nail polish remover will work fine.
that should be good then..
Brilliant, thanks. I'll lift up the motherboard and see if there's any leakage underneath as well.
I'll let you know about the hard-modded one and see what the options are with the larger HDD.
Thanks again
I'll let you know about the hard-modded one and see what the options are with the larger HDD.
Thanks again
Hi ShambleS1980,
Thanks for your help so far. I'll do this in 2 posts to make it easier to follow, one for the soft-modded xbox and the other for the hard-modded one
The good news is I removed the capacitor this morning and it still functions when I put it back together:
and cleaned it up as best I could with a cloth, fresh lemon juice and the the isopropyl I use for cleaning cartridge connections (hopefully it's strong enough as the label went AWOL):
Removed the motherboard and that looks fine:
Now for the bad news. As soon as I put it all back together and it turned itself on without me pushing the power button. Turned it off and 10 minutes later it switched itself back on. Can you tell from the photo if the track has been damaged or is there anything else I can try?
---------- Post added at 13:25 ---------- Previous post was at 13:17 ----------
In regards to the hard-modded one I've taken a few photos as to what I see when it boots. I am not sure if this is the information you're looking for about the Bios version though for the HDD?
This is the mod chip installed:
The layout is slightly different to the soft-modded xbox but I take under the dust the capacitor next to the large one is the clock capacitor leaking in this machine as well?
Thanks in advance,
Thanks for your help so far. I'll do this in 2 posts to make it easier to follow, one for the soft-modded xbox and the other for the hard-modded one
The good news is I removed the capacitor this morning and it still functions when I put it back together:
and cleaned it up as best I could with a cloth, fresh lemon juice and the the isopropyl I use for cleaning cartridge connections (hopefully it's strong enough as the label went AWOL):
Removed the motherboard and that looks fine:
Now for the bad news. As soon as I put it all back together and it turned itself on without me pushing the power button. Turned it off and 10 minutes later it switched itself back on. Can you tell from the photo if the track has been damaged or is there anything else I can try?
---------- Post added at 13:25 ---------- Previous post was at 13:17 ----------
In regards to the hard-modded one I've taken a few photos as to what I see when it boots. I am not sure if this is the information you're looking for about the Bios version though for the HDD?
This is the mod chip installed:
The layout is slightly different to the soft-modded xbox but I take under the dust the capacitor next to the large one is the clock capacitor leaking in this machine as well?
Thanks in advance,
I have a 2005 model (one of the last I suspect) black Xbox here. Had it from new, but it's not been used since circa 2008.
Looking at having it chipped/hdd upgraded and using it for emulation and xbmc.
Is there anything else I should think about? Is the clock cap likely to be a problem?
Looking at having it chipped/hdd upgraded and using it for emulation and xbmc.
Is there anything else I should think about? Is the clock cap likely to be a problem?
ok.
you do have a broken trace there. is not the easiest thing to solder if you are not good with a solder but i will tell you how. after a while
(i will take pictures)
also it loooks like you are running an x2 bios. on your hard mod
i dont know which version though. if its 49xx or earlier then it wont take partition table data from the drive so you would need to prep the hard disk on that xbox. if i made one ready for you and sent it there is a good chance you wouldnt see the contents.
You could however flash the chip with the m8+ bios which would mean that i could prep and partition a hard disk here then just send that out.
also yes the clock cap is that one that has leaked a bit.
on v1.0-1.5 xboxes they are down by the controller ports. and on 2 over lapping circles that designate polarity..
(if you look at the picture of the 1 you removed you can see that there are 4 solder points under where it was and 2 overlapping white marks.)
And then if you look at your hard maodded one with the cap still in place. the cap is on top of 2 over lapping circles.. (i hope that makes sense)
on a 1.6 xbox they are a gold cap near the IDE connector. and cannot be removed or the xbox will not boot. the 1.6 ones do not seem to leak though..
And Glenn-s
if you wanted to send me the console to be chipped/hdd upgrade.
i do all the basic stuff at the same time.
(cap removal/clean up. psu check. and generally checking for faults/sticky drive trays)
But it should be a 1.6 xbox so should not have any cap problems or a faulty psu.
i could flash a chip ready for use on your xbox for you, and prep a hard disk and just send you those. however the 1.6 xboxes do need an lpc rebuild. (you solder 5 wires from points on the motherboard to the lpc header)
If you are confident at your soldering ability then i could just send you the hard disk and mod chip if you wanted to buy from me.
-edit-
ok as promised i took some pics to show you where to solder to fix the problem..
you need to solder one end of a piece of wire at A1 then solder the other end at A2
And you also need to solder a piece of wire to B1 and the other end to B2.
I have marked them and show the location in the following picture:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
This picture should be big enough for you to find the points..
here is the direct link. :
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/6571/p48t.jpg
sorry i cant take a bigger picture than that.
some tips..
point a1 and b1 are probably coverd with laquer.
CAREFULLY use sand paper or preferably a fiberglass pen to expose the copper pad at a1 1st
use a 15w pencil iron if you have one and put some flux on the pad. hold the soldering iron to the pad for a second or 2. then with the iron still touching the pad. tap the pad with your solder.
this should add solder to the pad..
next measure out your wire and expose a tiny amount of both ends. dip the wire in flux and heat it with your iron then tap the solder to the wire this should add some solder to the wire.
now run your wire ABOVE the bottom 2 restors and BELOW the top 2 resistors,
so its not near point b1, (it will make life easier)
then line up the exposed solderd wire with point a1. You will need to use something to hold it in possition. just pin it down with a knife edge or tweesers.
When its lined up good. tap your iron to the wire for a second. and the solder on the wire and the solder on the pad should melt, remove the iron but keep the wire held in place with your knife/tweezers. after a second or 2 the solder should be solid again and thats your 1st point..
I would then use a tiny bit of hot glue to hold the wire down between the resisters. (use tape on the right hand side of the resister if you have no glue)
Point b1 you again expose the pad and add solder to it the same as you did with a1..
again cut wire to length and expose some of the ends. and add solder to it.
for point b run the wire allong the board straight to the b1 point (run it from right to left allong the bottom of the board)
Again tap it with your iron whilst holding it in place. and when its solderd glue it down..
Do not glue directly on the pad.. glue the wire down to the right of the pad. (that way if you need to re solder there is no glue in the way)
The a2 and b2 points are Giant football fields in comparison and do not need to get exposed.
but again heat up the pad for a second or 2 and tap the solder to it so it gets a useable ammount of solder on the pad.
Add solder to the other end of the wire.
and again hold down the wire lined up to the pad. and tap it down with the iron for a second.
do that for A2 and B2.
then glue the wire(s) down
again dont glue to the pads. glue the wire to the board
You would then also tape down the wires so they wont snag on the way back in to the case..
when you are done test it.
You should find that the xbox will only turn on when you press the button.
When its tested and working.
IF you would feel more comfortable putting glue on the pads where you solderd too that's fine.
but remember to let it be 100% dry before you power on again.
decided a picture would explain where to run the wires better..
so here you go.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The grey circle shapes is where i would put the glue or tape after it was solderd down..
you do have a broken trace there. is not the easiest thing to solder if you are not good with a solder but i will tell you how. after a while
(i will take pictures)
also it loooks like you are running an x2 bios. on your hard mod
i dont know which version though. if its 49xx or earlier then it wont take partition table data from the drive so you would need to prep the hard disk on that xbox. if i made one ready for you and sent it there is a good chance you wouldnt see the contents.
You could however flash the chip with the m8+ bios which would mean that i could prep and partition a hard disk here then just send that out.
also yes the clock cap is that one that has leaked a bit.
on v1.0-1.5 xboxes they are down by the controller ports. and on 2 over lapping circles that designate polarity..
(if you look at the picture of the 1 you removed you can see that there are 4 solder points under where it was and 2 overlapping white marks.)
And then if you look at your hard maodded one with the cap still in place. the cap is on top of 2 over lapping circles.. (i hope that makes sense)
on a 1.6 xbox they are a gold cap near the IDE connector. and cannot be removed or the xbox will not boot. the 1.6 ones do not seem to leak though..
And Glenn-s
if you wanted to send me the console to be chipped/hdd upgrade.
i do all the basic stuff at the same time.
(cap removal/clean up. psu check. and generally checking for faults/sticky drive trays)
But it should be a 1.6 xbox so should not have any cap problems or a faulty psu.
i could flash a chip ready for use on your xbox for you, and prep a hard disk and just send you those. however the 1.6 xboxes do need an lpc rebuild. (you solder 5 wires from points on the motherboard to the lpc header)
If you are confident at your soldering ability then i could just send you the hard disk and mod chip if you wanted to buy from me.
-edit-
ok as promised i took some pics to show you where to solder to fix the problem..
you need to solder one end of a piece of wire at A1 then solder the other end at A2
And you also need to solder a piece of wire to B1 and the other end to B2.
I have marked them and show the location in the following picture:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
This picture should be big enough for you to find the points..
here is the direct link. :
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/6571/p48t.jpg
sorry i cant take a bigger picture than that.
some tips..
point a1 and b1 are probably coverd with laquer.
CAREFULLY use sand paper or preferably a fiberglass pen to expose the copper pad at a1 1st
use a 15w pencil iron if you have one and put some flux on the pad. hold the soldering iron to the pad for a second or 2. then with the iron still touching the pad. tap the pad with your solder.
this should add solder to the pad..
next measure out your wire and expose a tiny amount of both ends. dip the wire in flux and heat it with your iron then tap the solder to the wire this should add some solder to the wire.
now run your wire ABOVE the bottom 2 restors and BELOW the top 2 resistors,
so its not near point b1, (it will make life easier)
then line up the exposed solderd wire with point a1. You will need to use something to hold it in possition. just pin it down with a knife edge or tweesers.
When its lined up good. tap your iron to the wire for a second. and the solder on the wire and the solder on the pad should melt, remove the iron but keep the wire held in place with your knife/tweezers. after a second or 2 the solder should be solid again and thats your 1st point..
I would then use a tiny bit of hot glue to hold the wire down between the resisters. (use tape on the right hand side of the resister if you have no glue)
Point b1 you again expose the pad and add solder to it the same as you did with a1..
again cut wire to length and expose some of the ends. and add solder to it.
for point b run the wire allong the board straight to the b1 point (run it from right to left allong the bottom of the board)
Code:
here is point b1
V
O-----------
^
wireDo not glue directly on the pad.. glue the wire down to the right of the pad. (that way if you need to re solder there is no glue in the way)
The a2 and b2 points are Giant football fields in comparison and do not need to get exposed.
but again heat up the pad for a second or 2 and tap the solder to it so it gets a useable ammount of solder on the pad.
Add solder to the other end of the wire.
and again hold down the wire lined up to the pad. and tap it down with the iron for a second.
do that for A2 and B2.
then glue the wire(s) down
again dont glue to the pads. glue the wire to the board
You would then also tape down the wires so they wont snag on the way back in to the case..
when you are done test it.
You should find that the xbox will only turn on when you press the button.
When its tested and working.
IF you would feel more comfortable putting glue on the pads where you solderd too that's fine.
but remember to let it be 100% dry before you power on again.
decided a picture would explain where to run the wires better..
so here you go.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The grey circle shapes is where i would put the glue or tape after it was solderd down..
Last edited:
I removed the cap from the hard-modded xbox and it looks to have eaten through more of the board maybe:
cleaned up:
After I had done that and connected it all back up to make sure I hadn't borked it I found this on the hard drive under the bios folder:
Is 5035 likely to be the version installed on the machine?
Thanks for the information on where I need to solder I'll buy a low powered 15W solder iron and give it a go as I think the one I am using is faulty or set too high given the damage I am able to inflict in short amounts of time (blaming my tools )
cleaned up:
After I had done that and connected it all back up to make sure I hadn't borked it I found this on the hard drive under the bios folder:
Is 5035 likely to be the version installed on the machine?
Thanks for the information on where I need to solder I'll buy a low powered 15W solder iron and give it a go as I think the one I am using is faulty or set too high given the damage I am able to inflict in short amounts of time
(blaming my tools )- Status