Retr0bright on it's own is not a permanent solution - here's why...

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What brands of this acrylic lacquir are avail in the US? Are they a clear coat spray? Can UV protectant like Armour All be used?
 
Thanks for this helpful thread Merlin, I'll certainly use it as reference when I get around to retrobrightening my treasures!:thumbsup:
 
What brands of this acrylic lacquir are avail in the US? Are they a clear coat spray? Can UV protectant like Armour All be used?
Zetr0 commented about the technique: use clear UV-protection varnish/lacquer from half a metre (around ~2ft) of the destination instead the normal 25/30cm (that's ~1ft) so the quick evaporation solvents don't reach the piece.

Without the quick evaporation solvents the lacquer will acquire an aspect resembling an orange peel (opaque instead of bright).
 
What's the current opinion to using armor all instead of laquer.

I've used it in the past due to an earlier recommendation , is that null and void now?

And if so how to best get the stuff off...
 
What's the current opinion to using armor all instead of laquer.

I've used it in the past due to an earlier recommendation , is that null and void now?

And if so how to best get the stuff off...

I had one person claim that it made the surface of the plastic brittle and 'powdery', causing it to crumble off, although I've not seen any other posts out on the Internet to substantiate this claim.

I would work on the premise of "If it's not broken, don't fix it".
 
Armour all has been fine no issues with brittle or powdery residue.
 
Modern acrylic lacquers are a lot better than they used to be and they shouldn't go yellow.
 
I did some Retr0Brighting almost two years ago, but never sprayed them with any clear laquer as I didn't know what to use. After reading this thread, I still haven't found anyone who has said I used <name of spray and UK link> and it was perfect and didn't change the appearance or feel of the computer.

I did some searches and only found this, at £17 it's much more expensive than I was expecting. Does anyone have a link to something that they have used that they are happy with? UV and no change to my A500 (look or texture) is what I'm after.
 
[oops! I didn't spot the message about the post having to be approved, so I posted again, which is this one below. It says pretty much the same as above]

Does anyone have a link to some clear acrylic UV satin finish laquer in the UK that they have used and worked well? I did my Amiga almost two years ago, and I never got round to putting clear laquer on it as I didn't know what to use. I don't want it to look any different or have a strange feel to it after spraying it. If something out there can keep it as original as possible that would be great.

I looked at this, but it's very expensive. I was hoping for something much cheaper.

There must be someone here who had good results from something available in the UK.
 
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In the past I've doused a few things with armor all ( after retrobriting them)

Do we now think they will return yellow as well, or are current thoughts still that armor all will seal the item from O2 and uv?

Ta
 
I would expect Plastikote or Japlac to work perfectly well, as they are designed for plastics.

Cutting off the oxygen to stop the reaction is the main aim, the UV blocking is a bonus. Most modern car acrylic lacquers contain a UV blocker these days, so your local car parts shop is your friend.
 
So if I buy this clear acrylic lacquer and spray it from 1/2 a meter onto the plastic it should remain looking stock and should not yellow again ?

Its true, when I retrobrited some consoles they yellowed again in as little as 3 or 4 months.
 
There are loads of different ones, but I found this one:

http://www.toollineuk.com/product.php/section//sn/PKT24001

Which looks okay.

There's also:

http://tooltray.com/Decorative-Spray-Paints/Industrial-Clear-Acrylic-500ml.htm

I don't know what the difference is.

If no-one here has actually used anything they can recommend, I might have to just go for the first link above and hope it doesn't look or feel bad once it's on my Amiga. I could try it on the bottom of the case first I suppose.

Thanks for the suggestions Merlin.
 
So if I buy this clear acrylic lacquer and spray it from 1/2 a meter onto the plastic it should remain looking stock and should not yellow again ?

Its true, when I retrobrited some consoles they yellowed again in as little as 3 or 4 months.

Yes, that's exactly what I am saying. The original yellowing reaction needs oxygen, bromine and UV light. Take any one of these away and the reaction can't happen; it's like the 'Triangle of Fire'.
 
what about IF you have Amiga in amazing condition- all original, is it possible to use clear coat to prevent from yellowing? in the future? :D

-nice info.
 
what about IF you have Amiga in amazing condition- all original, is it possible to use clear coat to prevent from yellowing? in the future? :D

-nice info.

Yes. Do it. Now. ;)
 
If the Amiga has not yellowed thus far, there's a good chance it isn't very susceptible to it - as long as you keep it out of the sun or other very bright lights, it'll probably continue to stay fine. But yes, if you want to be sure, you can clear coat it.
 
yep i use dust cover, plus i put towel on top of it when done using it,- :coffee:
 
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