soldering rework station

[jvdbossc]

Most solder is fine. John do not forget a metal spongue to clean and whet kitchen type one for cleaning very often. What is included in the kit mostly is worn in one day mostly...

(only for the pic it is buy it now)

http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/SOLDERI...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3cb8547be5



What I am still looking for is solder for the hot air (the liquid) I fail to get that stuff..

---------- Post added at 20:08 ---------- Previous post was at 20:05 ----------

O very usefull for connecting wires you can shake as much as you like with this...

http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/HELPING...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item45faf52cb6

---------- Post added at 20:18 ---------- Previous post was at 20:08 ----------

O I forgot those croco clamps on the helping hand are also seperate available, it is good to have few for testing stuff, and to reduce heat on components while soldering. Clamp them to both legs if thorug hole stuff is done..

 

[johnim]

cheers mate will have a look

 

[johnim]

wow

wow

hi guys i got my 898BD rework station today and all i can say is wow

how quick surfacemount components come off set at 450c i think half speed fan on a very rusty 600(sorry had too try)

some piccys





now what temps do you guys use and any tips on using it

good/bad the obvious is fine too

i havent used iron properly yet as waiting for more tips

thanks

 

[Ed.D]

Hello mate,

Same model as I have.

The air I pretty much leave on full, No.8. I found when I did some work on the AGA chips (ALICE/LISA) I needed about 300°C and it takes one or two minutes to free a chip. For smaller things like the Sony video encoder (U12) and for SMD caps I could go down to 275°C. I started off using the smallest air nozzle but found that the next size up is quicker, it's about 8mm diameter.

I've started using kapton tape to mask off any bits I need to protect. Some say to use ally foil but there are those that believe because it's a heat conductor it will just allow the heat to pass through it to the protected parts. I won't argue either way, that would be for a techy to prove/disprove.

The hot air is also great for heat shrink at about 100°C.

I'm still learning so perhaps some of the folks here with greater expertise can advise further (or correct my errors ).

Good luck with the new kit

 

[fitzsteve]

Hi John,

I think at 450 you might do some damage, probably better to stick at 350-380 (I read this in an online guide somewhere)

But wait for the experts to give the difinative answer, of course at the higher temp you'll free the parts quicker but I think you can damage the layers between the boards.

Have fun!

Steve.

 

[johnim]

hi ed thanks i have a lot to learn on this


cheers steve i just did a quick test on dead 600 but will be more carfull on a repair job thanks for the input

john

 

[jvdbossc]

Hello mate,
I've started using kapton tape to mask off any bits I need to protect. Some say to use ally foil but there are those that believe because it's a heat conductor it will just allow the heat to pass through it to the protected parts. I won't argue either way, that would be for a techy to prove/disprove.

I'm still learning so perhaps some of the folks here with greater expertise can advise further (or correct my errors ).

I'l give kapton tape a try. I use aluminium foil to prevent parts are blown away. - it heats them up correct. I am a noob in electronics...

I am also still learning so not arguing in any way.

I tried normal elec tape but that is a big no-no you get glue residu almost impossible to remove..

 

[stachu100]

Hi John,

I think at 450 you might do some damage, probably better to stick at 350-380 (I read this in an online guide somewhere)

But wait for the experts to give the difinative answer, of course at the higher temp you'll free the parts quicker but I think you can damage the layers between the boards.

Soldering specificalion for general IC's like 74F family says that max temperature during soldering/unsoldering is 240-260 Celsius degrees during max 10 seconds.
For lead-free technology it's 220-240 Celsius during 10sec max.

For programmable devices and oscillators soldering temperature is even lower...

So hot air in general:
1) Very easy to un-solder
2) Not so easy to solder back especialy when nb. of pins is higher than 20 (please try)
3) Always a risk to kill soldered or neighbour component by heat. I've killed several oscillators by using hot air.

 

[Wolfy]

Hi John,

I think at 450 you might do some damage, probably better to stick at 350-380 (I read this in an online guide somewhere)

But wait for the experts to give the difinative answer, of course at the higher temp you'll free the parts quicker but I think you can damage the layers between the boards.

Soldering specificalion for general IC's like 74F family says that max temperature during soldering/unsoldering is 240-260 Celsius degrees during max 10 seconds.
For lead-free technology it's 220-240 Celsius during 10sec max.

For programmable devices and oscillators soldering temperature is even lower...

So hot air in general:
1) Very easy to un-solder
2) Not so easy to solder back especialy when nb. of pins is higher than 20 (please try)
3) Always a risk to kill soldered or neighbour component by heat. I've killed several oscillators by using hot air.

So, not related to hot air, but what temps would you recommend for soldering / desoldering and would you use different temps depending on through hole or smd?
Thanks

 

[stachu100]

For through-hole and standard soldering iron 210 - 230 Celsius is enough for most applications.

SMD and hot air is much more tricky as you must control temperature in components area. Ideal case is to control temperature on un-soldered/soldered component's pins.

To do so you need special thermomether with probe placed very close to component you are working with.
This is the best solution.

Because all low budget hot air devices are just showing temperature that is inside hot air gun.
So this method to control temperature is useless.
BUT
if you will practise a lot you will find proper temperature + proper distance + proper heat-up time.
Really practising (a lot of) is the key if you don't want to use expensive microprocessor controlled device + thermometer probe close to component.

 

[protek]

So would you recommend using the iron instead of hot air to solder in the new caps after they've been removed with hot air gun? How about PLCC chips and would you also suggest putting in a socket?

 

[stachu100]

For SMD components I'm using hot air mainly. And I would recommend to practise a lot. Really.
And as less sockets as possible. Remove socket and solder IC directly - this is the best solution.

 

[luc_dk]

Hi All

i'm thinking of buying a 898BD for amiga repair and replace cap. cpu etc..

is the hot air a good choice to desolder (PGA) 68040 and replace with a 68060 ?

i think it's a bit difficult to unsolder with a normal iron.

regards
Peter

 

[imaga_050]

Hi, i'm wondering if this is any good, also if the tips are OK, 6mm,12mm round 10 mm square? i have'nt any experience with hot air, and i might need to do a A1200 recap.

 

[Wolfy]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTQqjggeklo

Dunno if this has been mentioned elsewhere, but could this make for easier cap removal?
Chipquik low melting point solder...

 

[Jazzmarazz]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTQqjggeklo

Dunno if this has been mentioned elsewhere, but could this make for easier cap removal?
Chipquik low melting point solder...

Caps can't really be any easier to remove, but as for smt chips, that chipQuik was awesome!

 

[Wolfy]

Would it maybe negate the need for a hot air station?

---------- Post added at 02:30 ---------- Previous post was at 02:29 ----------

I am happy with getting them off with air now, but some people may not want to invest in expensive reworking kit for maybe just one job