Good device to plug the amiga to an LCD?

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yes exactly, im just using a different input.

and yes again i "was " using the exact same input as you and i was using it in pal and ntsc.

maybe, your just missing something really obvios or overlooking something.i dont know.
if the unit only worked in one area when shipped it wouldnt be much use as a jamma converter.:)

as far as i know you can just set the amiga up using the scan button.
or maybe im not explaining it properly,im not sure.
 
roy_bates said:
yes exactly, im just using a different input.

and yes again i "was " using the exact same input as you and i was using it in pal and ntsc.

maybe, your just missing something really obvios or overlooking something.i dont know.
if the unit only worked in one area when shipped it wouldnt be much use as a jamma converter.:)

as far as i know you can just set the amiga up using the scan button.
or maybe im not explaining it properly,im not sure.
Click to expand...

You are explaining it correctly :) and you are correct saying that it wouldn't be too much of a Jamma converter if it wouldn't support different resolutions (altho from what I remember, mainly the Jamma cards were NTSC, since they were made either in Japan or in USA; I don't recall EU producers of JAmma cards in PAL format, but I may be wrong...I am kinda off of the cabinets business since when I discovered MAME :) ).

I am trying to eliminate the unlikely causes of the issue...so far my miggy seems to work with the board only when in NTSC, which could be caused by a defective motherboard, that is working correctly only in NTSC?

The GSB does not work with any of my other console thou, which could mean that I may have a defective board....can't explain otherwise why for you it was working for both PAL and NTSC, and for me works only in NTSC.

It is not the connector, since you said that you were using the same 6 pin one, before soldering the connector wires on the EGA/CGA, so can't be the connector.

As you said I must've been missing something obvious...I've been fighting with this board the whole weekend, so I guess the solution is right there under my nose, but I can't really see it :) I just wish that the maker would speak English...their CS is pretty much minimal.
 
sometimes ive found the problem is worse when your constantly looking at it,if say i go away and have a rethink and come back to it later refreshed i sometimes find i can solve it a bit better with a better frame of mind.



EDIT: ive just had a thought.are you booting up workbench from harddrive?

if you are, im wondering why you not setting it to ntsc there.but ive got a guess

from harddrive, open your boot partition click on storage open monitors and look for ntsc(its a monitor dos driver)

then open devs and open monitors(im assumming here that theres only the pal one)
then drag and drop the ntsc dos driver into the monitor drawer in devs and reboot.
then when it boots click on prefs and click on screenmode and pick a ntsc mode and click use and save,then when you reboot again it should be in ntsc.

its also worth noting that the gbs doesent like the overscan prefs on mine for some reason but i'll get into that later after this.
 
Last edited:
roy_bates said:
sometimes ive found the problem is worse when your constantly looking at it,if say i go away and have a rethink and come back to it later refreshed i sometimes find i can solve it a bit better with a better frame of mind.



EDIT: ive just had a thought.are you booting up workbench from harddrive?

if you are, im wondering why you not setting it to ntsc there.but ive got a guess

from harddrive, open your boot partition click on storage open monitors and look for ntsc(its a monitor dos driver)

then open devs and open monitors(im assumming here that theres only the pal one)
then drag and drop the ntsc dos driver into the monitor drawer in devs and reboot.
then when it boots click on prefs and click on screenmode and pick a ntsc mode and click use and save,then when you reboot again it should be in ntsc.

its also worth noting that the gbs doesent like the overscan prefs on mine for some reason but i'll get into that later after this.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have the CF card with WB on it, that boots directly on it.

Tried as you said, and it works; I can basically boot, get 5 seconds of green weirdness and then WB comes up.

Altho that's the only thing that I can use :( If I run a demo or a game, or even a program like personal paint, which changes the mode to the standard mode of the machine, I loose the signal. I don't get the green weird screen, nor the card show me the "no signal" message, but I get a black screen.

Basically it is almost unusable in this way T_T There are very little programs that does not open a screen in their own resolution, so I am very limited to what I can do with the Amiga, if I use the GBS.

Checked also on the manufacturer site, and their technical service has no clue of what is going on; they say to try it with a JAmma card, because that's what should work for sure...thank you very much :) I've asked if there is a way to change the firmware and they said that it can be done only in the factory. They ship to various distributors, cards with slightly different firmware on it; which would explain why in some cases it works just fine.

At this point it is a lost cause to continue to spend time trying to make this thing to work....got today the SCART/HDMI adapter, and will give it a try as soon as I finish the scart cable. Tried with a composite to scart adapter, and the picture was really nice and smooth, but there was a heavy blurring on the text in WB, which makes me hope that it is just a problem caused by the fact that I was not coming out from the miggy via rgb, but using composite :)

Thanks again for the help! will post some pictures as soon as I am done with the RGB-SCART cable!
 
Stedy said:
Hi
Any connection between an Amiga and a SCART socket will require a 270 to 470 ohm resistor on the CSYNC signal. If you use the CSYNC signal with any other adaptor you will also need the resistor. It's purpose is to reduce the amplitude from 4.8V to 1V or less that all modern TVs or adaptors require on a composite video input.

Ian
Click to expand...

Just to clarify (sorry to digress slightly)

Is the the signal from the composite video out (yellow rca plug) on the rear of the A1200 also 4.8V and therefore too high for modern TV inputs?
Or is this information strictly related to signals from the RGB port on the A1200?

Thanks for any info!

.aZtOcKdOg | .Key-J FReeLY
 
aZtOcKdOg said:
Stedy said:
Hi
Any connection between an Amiga and a SCART socket will require a 270 to 470 ohm resistor on the CSYNC signal. If you use the CSYNC signal with any other adaptor you will also need the resistor. It's purpose is to reduce the amplitude from 4.8V to 1V or less that all modern TVs or adaptors require on a composite video input.

Ian
Click to expand...

Just to clarify (sorry to digress slightly)

Is the the signal from the composite video out (yellow rca plug) on the rear of the A1200 also 4.8V and therefore too high for modern TV inputs?
Or is this information strictly related to signals from the RGB port on the A1200?

Thanks for any info!

.aZtOcKdOg | .Key-J FReeLY
Click to expand...

You are talking of 2 different system; the yellow composite cable is used on the composite port, where the circuitry on the tv is different from the scart (as far as I can remember, had 2 scart TV in my whole life ).

RGB output, or to be precise, the composite sync signal on the RGB out, needs to be scaled down with the resistor, if you want to connect it to a scart IN, otherwise on the long run you may burn the tv board.

I do not have a multimeter that measure voltage above the millivolt, so cannot check how much it outputs, but I assume that it is coming out too strong for the TTL CSync on the SCART
 
Ok, so finally I gave a try to the SCART cable and the SCART/HDMI device, and boy, it is like night and day !!!

The GBS is inferior, and I can understand, but it just resolve all the NTSC/PAL problems altogether! It sync on any Pal or NTSC mode that you set it, no artifacts or weird effects of softening on the mouse cursor. Overall is a more pleasant experience, even if I cannot use a real 1024x768 or higher (the highest that I can go is super high res interlaced).

Will post later on a complete evaluation (even if I assume that we have already some reviews for these items); so other noobs like me can get baby steps ;)

Thanks a lot for walking with me in this journey...the indivision can wait now ;)
 
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