how long will 24v dc survive with 30v dc

ShambleS1980

Softmodder/Tsoper/Repairer of old xboxes.
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pretty much exactly what the title says.
i have a force feedback steering wheel. should be 24v. i am now running it at 30v..
how long will it survive?
 
That depends on exactly what's in it and if the 24V supplies the electronics and not just the motors, then it depends on what method and components they used to regulate the 5V supply.

Bryce.
 
first depends on max current and steady current drawn
I`d say u be ok as long as the 30v supply can supply enough current or amps or majic smoke, done similar hacks in the past, not something I like to do but when theres no other choice and it gets it working ....
 
have had it running on 14v for a while.

works but its really feeble.
now with 30v its prety darnd awesome. but im a bit sceptical about how long it will work for.

6v seems quite a lot more in my mind.
i mean i wouldnt power a 9v item on 12v.. and thats only 3v diference, but if we go by %
9v to 12v is about 33% more
and 24 to 30 about 20% so technically its less and in my mind components that take 24v should have a bit more tolerance than the delicate little 9v's the dc motors should be able to take 20% more power no issues..
but as emntioned the other components could be a bit of an issue.
I think they should be ok...
still. if i was not a bit worried i wouldnt be asking lol..
 
are there no capacitors / components you could theoretically replace to compensate?
 
could probaly wire in some caps n resisters inline on the live to drop it down maybe just use a mosfet or sumthing.. but right now i just wanted something that worked.
 
Aye, hackery rocks but wont be a very good xmas with a burned out wheel :lol: Even if it does take a while, hehe.
 
it seems ok..
just been driving around with it in forza for about 40 mins. "till my thumbs got numb from fighting the force feed back."

im guessing for the price of a couple of beers i could get a 24v transformer from hongkong. But even then i dont know which id trust more lol. the cheapo transformer or my "ahem high quality" 30v jobby..
hmm
 
you still havent told us the most important bit, how much amps dose steering wheel need and how much can your supply deliver
 
i think the wheel is 1a..
the power supply i cant tell you lol..

it was some dell thing that used to slide in to some thing "printer/laptop?" i dont know what it used to slide in to but must be a laptop or printer..
it was in my box of stuff. i had to do some soldering and new wiering to get the power to a connetction the steering wheel wil take.
but its either 1amp or less. Il see if i cant figure out how to make a multimeeter read amps.

-=edit=-
it looked like this.. "not exactly but this is the closest i could find"
lexmarkdellpowersupply15j0300_2.jpg


so that one i got a picture of is..
30v 0.4A

id be confident in saying that the dell one is the same, its just rebranded from lexamrk to dell. as the lexmark one "pictured" says it will work on a couple of dell items.
 
any one have a verdict on this?

im still using it but still just expecting to see magic smoke then tears any second.
 
It depends on the steering wheel, if it has a voltage regulator able to take the 30 v then only heat might an issue.

I'd normally put 5 diodes (as used in rectifiers) in series to get 0.7V drop each diode and they give some (small) resistance as well to get close and cheap to the 24V. You'll end up still higher then 24V but a lot closer to it..

It's not 100% but it's better then nothing, but it's damm cheap.

30V + ->- ->- ->- ->- ->- + 26.5V or 25V depending on load.
 
prety sure i could drop it down with a single mosfet couldnt i?
should also be put that in line on the live then case it in epoxy as it should not really get hot at all. but i dont have any dioeds or mosfets available to me right now.
 
should be possible but if nothing at hand, this is already made, you just need to ask to put the resistor for 24V in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-HRD-Converter-24v-36v-48v-Step-Down-12v-3A-Switching-Power-Module-/221117064788?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D3946170011157322254%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D221117064788%26

Nothing beats that..

Typical this one and 2 caps can do the job as well, but might need cooling (rather gets hot) (it can't do 1A without cooling!)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-L7824CV...851?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb9f05bc3

---------- Post added at 19:09 ---------- Previous post was at 18:59 ----------



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(replace caps with right voltage ones)(scheme is for 5V but can be used for ..)
 
You can put two or more LM7824 in parallel if you need more than 1A. Electronically it's not a problem and you'll need a lot less cooling / heatsinks.

Bryce.
 
You can put two or more LM7824 in parallel if you need more than 1A. Electronically it's not a problem and you'll need a lot less cooling / heatsinks.

Bryce.

Variations in voltage regulation between the different regulator chips will lead to one chip passing more current than the other one. That eventually, will most likely cause failure of that chip, that in turn will mean that the other chip will carry all the load and will promptly fail.

Will this work? Probably yes.. But don't count on it for 1.5 Amps! I've done it with a special circuit with 5 lm's and then after making sure all of them take the same load, wire difference in length, (or pcb difference length) made center units take more, even it was protected not to do so..
 
They can't be simply connected in parallel, that would be a disaster. You have to do something like this: http://www.reuk.co.uk/High-Current-Voltage-Regulation.htm then you won't have a problem. As long as the total current being pulled is less than the capacity of the sum of the regulators it's not a problem. Many commercial products do this without any issues. If the wheel needs 1.5A use 2 or even 3 of them and you will only need some small passive cooling.
I have built several powersupplies for my retro computers using this method.

Bryce.
 
They can't be simply connected in parallel, that would be a disaster. You have to do something like this: http://www.reuk.co.uk/High-Current-Voltage-Regulation.htm then you won't have a problem. As long as the total current being pulled is less than the capacity of the sum of the regulators it's not a problem. Many commercial products do this without any issues. If the wheel needs 1.5A use 2 or even 3 of them and you will only need some small passive cooling.
I have built several powersupplies for my retro computers using this method.

Bryce.

Sorry I did not read that in your first post, so I thought you suggested to do that.. :Doh: Please read your first post, you said put them in parallel.. So this might be interpreted it did not need any "glue logic". :)
 
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