Retr0bright Support Thread
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I have tested using the glue instead, it gets rather glued after 2 hours..
Not much visible results
The bleech gave after 2 weeks more, but noticed like already mentioned some distruction..
I'll post some pics..
---------- Post added at 21:40 ---------- Previous post was at 21:00 ----------
I missed on the order of pictures, this is the last one taken after the glue:
This is before:
This together with a small uv light are the recepients, I can't tell if i used 8% or 15% percent for sure of the 30%, I just took the water added an amount to match 1/3, added the paper glue, (mix & mix with a spoon) added the oxy action, mixed once more with a spoon, noticed reaction after the oxi and started painting..
Not much visible results
The bleech gave after 2 weeks more, but noticed like already mentioned some distruction..I'll post some pics..
---------- Post added at 21:40 ---------- Previous post was at 21:00 ----------
I missed on the order of pictures, this is the last one taken after the glue:
This is before:
This together with a small uv light are the recepients, I can't tell if i used 8% or 15% percent for sure of the 30%, I just took the water added an amount to match 1/3, added the paper glue, (mix & mix with a spoon) added the oxy action, mixed once more with a spoon, noticed reaction after the oxi and started painting..
I tried a lot, I can confirm that the glue does stick well enough, getting the right fluid happens in reaction with the oxy action, (it feels like that, not a scientist) only 5 minutes and a little movement creates a gell to apply..
I did not get fast results with my uv light, but it's old and might be not strong enough, here is it for now, I used sunlight and applied at least 5 times..
I did not get fast results with my uv light, but it's old and might be not strong enough, here is it for now, I used sunlight and applied at least 5 times..
Actually, Jurgen, that result is better than you think. 
I would do another treatment but with maybe 5% H2O2 this time around as you aren't that far off the original grey colour - you can see the grey in the grooves in the case.
Slow and gentle is the way to take it from here on in and you'll get a great end result.
Well done!!
I would do another treatment but with maybe 5% H2O2 this time around as you aren't that far off the original grey colour - you can see the grey in the grooves in the case.
Slow and gentle is the way to take it from here on in and you'll get a great end result.
Well done!!
@Rkauer: mostly washed it off yes, somethimes no. (have a child bath filled with rainwather for that) You see on the pic I also had some over use of the oxy action somethimes.. (meaning not dissolving the oxy)
@Merlin, yes it is indeed giving results, I even restored my A1000 keyboard, only needed to do the space key, and some plastics far away enough to not open the unit.. (some small are spots yellowed by sun) so I just used this glue without removing anything:roll: It looks the unit is also almost done... The C64 dries up to quickly in the sun, that's why it has the grey spots where the fluid stays longer.. I have also one yellow side of my A1000 that is coming more harmonic to the rest of the unit, I just covered the power key without removing the electronics.
To me this experience, wich was while reading already proven good, is worth the trouble when you really wan't something done, but it's not like cleaning the toilet, it takes a lot of patience:nod:
I'll just hope when putting the A1000 into storage (dark) it will remain restored..
jurgen,
@Merlin, yes it is indeed giving results, I even restored my A1000 keyboard, only needed to do the space key, and some plastics far away enough to not open the unit.. (some small are spots yellowed by sun) so I just used this glue without removing anything:roll: It looks the unit is also almost done... The C64 dries up to quickly in the sun, that's why it has the grey spots where the fluid stays longer.. I have also one yellow side of my A1000 that is coming more harmonic to the rest of the unit, I just covered the power key without removing the electronics.
To me this experience, wich was while reading already proven good, is worth the trouble when you really wan't something done, but it's not like cleaning the toilet, it takes a lot of patience:nod:
I'll just hope when putting the A1000 into storage (dark) it will remain restored..
jurgen,
Here's something to try....
If you cover the C64 with cling film once you have applied the gel, it's won't dry out anywhere near as fast. A large Ziploc bag would also keep the moisture in and prevent the gel from drying out.
If you cover the C64 with cling film once you have applied the gel, it's won't dry out anywhere near as fast. A large Ziploc bag would also keep the moisture in and prevent the gel from drying out.
Merlin,
I did not pick up the specific words, but I got the idea, but what about the UV light? I've got some transparant plastic bags to, I can close or leave some fluid in...
What about just using some vaporiser filled with just a little oxy and rain water?
Jurgen,
I did not pick up the specific words, but I got the idea, but what about the UV light? I've got some transparant plastic bags to, I can close or leave some fluid in...
What about just using some vaporiser filled with just a little oxy and rain water?
Jurgen,
I mean the clear plastic film on a roll, that you use to wrap sandwiches or food for the freezer in at home, or maybe the plastic bags that have a kind of 'zip' on the top to seal them closed.
Anyway, it's nice to see from the original pictures that somebody else had the special "Mahogany Finish Limited Edition" C64, just like the one I had!!
Anyway, it's nice to see from the original pictures that somebody else had the special "Mahogany Finish Limited Edition" C64, just like the one I had!!
to work with when it tears as you unroll it).
Yes we have the same for use in the kitchen too.. (it is a little less sticky but with the paper glue...)
Txs for supporting, I am continuing the work on the A1000, only the left side and the left side of the keyboard need extra attention. The C64 is still not 100% done, but sure I will get there in time..
I left it in rainwater and oxy action, wan't the full UV light to get the A1000 done..
Do I need to varnish it? I wan't to test drive the A1000 further and then put it in a black bag for storagE..
Jurgen
Txs for supporting, I am continuing the work on the A1000, only the left side and the left side of the keyboard need extra attention. The C64 is still not 100% done, but sure I will get there in time..
I left it in rainwater and oxy action, wan't the full UV light to get the A1000 done..
Do I need to varnish it? I wan't to test drive the A1000 further and then put it in a black bag for storagE..
Jurgen
Yes, a good clear acrylic lacquer will seal the surface and prevent further yellowing, as oxygen can't get to the surface. Plastikote is a good brand and clear lacquer aerosols sold at car parts shops are also good sources.
@ Merlin, I had from restoring 2 stroke motercycles the experience when using varnish on surfaces, like chrome, the rust gets underneat the varnish, long work to restore.. (or very expensive)
So I need to know If it's good to varnish the "perfect" restored amiga or C64 items with varnish or not..
I would be using good stuff from car repair shop.
And the A1000 won't see much light, it's an item got get out of the bag a couple of times a year...
Jurgen
So I need to know If it's good to varnish the "perfect" restored amiga or C64 items with varnish or not..
I would be using good stuff from car repair shop.
And the A1000 won't see much light, it's an item got get out of the bag a couple of times a year...
Jurgen
I used a clear plastic bag, it's not perfect, but with the glue, you can glue the plastic, it stay's good for one or two day's in the sun..
It gives some slight discolering where the plastic bends the light, this unit is a little durty spending in rain wather. The dirth on the unit is removable.. After it came out of the bag it had some strange artifacts...
So @Merlin this works *** **** well
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It gives some slight discolering where the plastic bends the light, this unit is a little durty spending in rain wather. The dirth on the unit is removable.. After it came out of the bag it had some strange artifacts...So @Merlin this works *** **** well
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Anybody have insight in what material to use in order to maximize UV reflection in the box? Many people seem to use aluminium foil but I've been experimenting with regular white [printer] paper, which I glued inside of the box. It seem to lighten up better than foil, but maybe it does not reflect as good? Is there any physics theory here? 
hikey
New member
People may be already doing this, but I just thought i'd mention that peelable solder mask works great for protecting logos and other areas you don't want touched during the retrobriting process. Better than tape, as nothing gets underneath it. It applies as a pink goo, doesn't take very long to dry and peels off cleanly in one piece. It's available from Farnell.
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protek
"Takai desu ne." -"Jinsei da."
I thought I'd share a couple of pics to demonstrate that old computers are not the only thing that the Retr0bright is good at.
This is a Transformers G1 Slingshot, which has the nosecone slightly yellowed. I used a 6% solution of H2O2 and Vanish and some good ole sunlight. The results speak for themselves.
Before:
After:
One thing worth mentioning that painted surfaces may fade. That's probably due to the bleaching ingredients in Vanish.
This is a Transformers G1 Slingshot, which has the nosecone slightly yellowed. I used a 6% solution of H2O2 and Vanish and some good ole sunlight. The results speak for themselves.
Before:
After:
One thing worth mentioning that painted surfaces may fade. That's probably due to the bleaching ingredients in Vanish.
I'll be damned!!! It truly works!
I just got all the ingredients just to test into my clean but slightly yellow A600 case, plus a s**ty super yellow A500 PSU I had.
You can clearly see it works!!! (Sorry forgot to take pre Retr0bright pics).
A500 super yellow PSU (haven't cleaned it fully yet):
A600 slightly yellow case:
Thanks again for this wonderful recipe
I just got all the ingredients just to test into my clean but slightly yellow A600 case, plus a s**ty super yellow A500 PSU I had.
You can clearly see it works!!! (Sorry forgot to take pre Retr0bright pics).
A500 super yellow PSU (haven't cleaned it fully yet):
A600 slightly yellow case:
Thanks again for this wonderful recipe