Solution for external Flicker fixer?
- Thread starter Harrison
- Start date
- Replies 814
- Views 312618
I bought two of these a while ago and I'm finally getting round to giving them a go but I'm having a problem getting any picture at all.
I've wired a 23 pin female amiga RGB connector directly to the 8 pin RGBS for the board, wired as follows:
RED - Pin 3
GREEN - Pin 4
BLUE - Pin 5
GREY - Pin 10
BLACK - Pin 16 (I've also bridged 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 although I understand now that it's not strictly necessary)
I've also connected up the power lead to supply power from pin 23 of the Amiga RGB port - but I tried it first using an external 5V 2A power supply. Both give the same result.
Basically what I'm getting is a green screen, made up of diagonal bands - see attached.
The menu etc work fine and when the Amiga is powered off I get a black screen with no signal message. As soon as the Amiga is powered on I see the green screen.
What am i doing wrong? Any suggestions appreciated
I've wired a 23 pin female amiga RGB connector directly to the 8 pin RGBS for the board, wired as follows:
RED - Pin 3
GREEN - Pin 4
BLUE - Pin 5
GREY - Pin 10
BLACK - Pin 16 (I've also bridged 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 although I understand now that it's not strictly necessary)
I've also connected up the power lead to supply power from pin 23 of the Amiga RGB port - but I tried it first using an external 5V 2A power supply. Both give the same result.
Basically what I'm getting is a green screen, made up of diagonal bands - see attached.
The menu etc work fine and when the Amiga is powered off I get a black screen with no signal message. As soon as the Amiga is powered on I see the green screen.
What am i doing wrong? Any suggestions appreciated
Green screen usually means a problem with your Agnus or chip ram!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-on_self-test#Amiga_POST
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-on_self-test#Amiga_POST
I don't think it's that, in this case. I've tried two machines - an A1500 and an A1200 both of which I know to be working, and have tested the RGB port on both using an RGB to SCART cable to a TV.
Worth noting that the green isn't as solid as it appears on the photo, it looks like green bands of interference but there's absolutely no trace of a workbench screen in there.
No - but the only other leads ive added are the two from the power lead, which I've disconnected from the board while using an external PSU - so essentially they're unconnected.
Yellow is disconnected.
A couple more pictures so that you can more clearly see both sides of the connector.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Fair enuf but troubleshooting is all about going back to basics, remove anything that isnt supposed to be there and see if the problem is still there.
I also recommend you test all the pins with your multi-meter set to either diode test mode or 200ohm to make sure that none of your pins are accidentally joined that shouldnt be. eg nothing between 16 & 5 and so on (also make sure 16 is 100% connected to 17, 18, 19 & 20).
PS, a bit more solder on your grey wire/pin10 and also pin16/black wouldn't hurt either.
I also recommend you test all the pins with your multi-meter set to either diode test mode or 200ohm to make sure that none of your pins are accidentally joined that shouldnt be. eg nothing between 16 & 5 and so on (also make sure 16 is 100% connected to 17, 18, 19 & 20).
PS, a bit more solder on your grey wire/pin10 and also pin16/black wouldn't hurt either.
Ok, took your advice and removed the power leads so I only have 5 wires connected - R,G,B,CSYNC,GND and 16,17,18,19,20 bridged. I've also checked every pin against every otherusing the multi-meter set to diode test mode.
I've tested again, and I'm still getting the same result
Also checked the voltage from the external PSU while under load - it's sitting at 5.12V
---------- Post added at 12:56 ---------- Previous post was at 12:55 ----------
If I hold down for >5s and then release, the screen goes blank for a moment, and then comes back on with a slightly different green pattern. I've tried this a few times
Ok, took your advice and removed the power leads so I only have 5 wires connected - R,G,B,CSYNC,GND and 16,17,18,19,20 bridged. I've also checked every pin against every otherusing the multi-meter set to diode test mode.
I've tested again, and I'm still getting the same result
Also checked the voltage from the external PSU while under load - it's sitting at 5.12V
---------- Post added at 12:56 ---------- Previous post was at 12:55 ----------
If I hold down for >5s and then release, the screen goes blank for a moment, and then comes back on with a slightly different green pattern. I've tried this a few times
can i ask a couple of questions,it may sound silly.
is the amiga on while your doing this?
and does the amiga work with a standard rgb cable?
Probably not as silly as whatever I'm doing wrong
1. Amiga is on - the green screen only appears while it's on. When I turn the Amiga off it goes back to the "No signal" text generated by the board.
2. I've tried it with two different Amigas - they both work using an RGB to SCART cable to a TV.
Probably not as silly as whatever I'm doing wrong
1. Amiga is on - the green screen only appears while it's on. When I turn the Amiga off it goes back to the "No signal" text generated by the board.
2. I've tried it with two different Amigas - they both work using an RGB to SCART cable to a TV.
ok,try to change to an input thats in use using the select button,and try again.
also try setting up the gbs in 800x600 mode first.
Probably not as silly as whatever I'm doing wrong
1. Amiga is on - the green screen only appears while it's on. When I turn the Amiga off it goes back to the "No signal" text generated by the board.
2. I've tried it with two different Amigas - they both work using an RGB to SCART cable to a TV.
ok,try to change to an input thats in use using the select button,and try again.
also try setting up the gbs in 800x600 mode first.
OK - a little bit of progress.
If I switch to the RGBHV input, hold auto, the screen goes blank for an instant and then comes back solid purple.
However, if I then bring up the menu and select display, switch to 1024x768 and then BACK to 800x600 - my workbench screen appears (it's a bit purple looking, is that just the settings on the pots?).
If I wait too long, the screen will revert back to "No Signal". But if I'm quick enough, and select "Ok" on the menu - the workbench screen will stay there and it's fairly usable.
Is this the right input to be using?
ok,remove the rgb plug from the amiga then turn on the gbs and hold down the gbs to reset it to defaults(no amiga connected)
then turn on the gbs and set it to 800x600 and set it that way by taping the down button for 1 second,(no amiga connected)
then turn on the amiga then the gbs and set it up from there.
then turn on the gbs and set it to 800x600 and set it that way by taping the down button for 1 second,(no amiga connected)
then turn on the amiga then the gbs and set it up from there.
Thanks, I've done that - it still doesn't feel quite right but at least I have it working now.
Every time I power on the gbs I need to go into menu, change to 1024x768 and then back to 800x600 before it will show any picture. It's a bit frustrating, but better than before
Thanks, I've done that - it still doesn't feel quite right but at least I have it working now.
Every time I power on the gbs I need to go into menu, change to 1024x768 and then back to 800x600 before it will show any picture. It's a bit frustrating, but better than before
ok,when you have a picture in 800x600 set it by tapping the down button for 1 second.(after you have set the mode by telling it ok outside the menu(not 5 seconds otherwise you will be back at square one)
nothing seems to happen at all - what should I see?
nothing on screen,but the amigas screenmode.
it just sets it so the next time its up and running you dont have to do it again(its a save settings )
One thing I found Is that it worked better if I powered up the Screen & GBS8220, then waited till the no signal displayed on my screen (from the GBS), then I turned on the Amiga.
Then if needed I pressed the auto button once to get the GBS8220 to lock onto the signal and after that saved all the settings using the hold-down auto button method.
