Post here everytime you get something new!

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it will involve iso alcohol, a very careful disassembly and assembly... and i'm told it may need some graphite pencil...

will do, I'll take a pic or two along the way. Fingers crossed!
 
Another thrift shop day (hope I am not boring anyone too much with these :p)

a pair of PlayStation 2 consoles bundled with 2 PS1 controllers each (the shop actually had 3 of these, as well as 2 PS1s for the same price and also an XBox for a few dollars more, but these were good enough :P), both working (and 1 had a FFX disc in it)

a MadCatz PS2 controller 'tap'

Lego Bionicle: Quest for Makuta adventure game (2001)

Smurfette (always had a soft spot for the Smurfs, ever since they came to Canada, around when I was 9)


also got a few small upgrades for my PC, a 750 Watt PS and an extra 16GB RAM (@1866mhz)
 

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This is only way I know to post pictures. ODa.jpgODb.jpgODc.jpgODd.jpgODg.jpg
Underneath the silver sticker is a Yamaha
3812 chip This is a original boxed item.
 

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Savior - no one's bored mate, it's interesting, keep posting. Mine are boring but i don't care hah. This arrived NIB. I like to have one good controller per system. Altho GC pads are generally bullet proof.
e1286936f6a49bfe08ca727d4efac1d2.jpg



Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Kryoflux box

Kryoflux box

Got a Kryoflux not too long ago and have been looking for a decent cabinet to put my floppy drives in together with the Kryoflux instead of having everything lying around loosely connected on my table.

Last week I got a nice (and free!) small chassis which I think was originally used for an optical drive. Today I finished integrating the Kryoflux, power supply, 5.25" drive and the 3.5" drive on top as seen on the pictures.

I had an external PSU from a faulty external HDD chassis, but the PSU was good and was specced for 5V 2A, 12V 2A, twice of the original PSU in this chassis which was not working well. This PSU is now mounted inside the chassis using a gap pad (thermal) to conduct its heat on to the bottom of the chassis. As mentioned, the Kryoflux is also internal mounted on a bent piece of sheet steel and I made a hole for the USB connector. The 3.5" drive is secured using four screw holes through the top of the chassis so it is not going anywhere.

I think this is a quite nice and small solution and it works well (after some trouble with the flat cable which I had to customize but it is sorted now).
Kryoflux back.jpgKryoflux front.jpg
 
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@demolition

That looks really nice! It's great that you have it all in one so you can easily move it out of the way when you don't need it. :)

Heather
 
Atari 1040STE, Spectrum+, Commodore 16, Atari Lynx2 + 8 games, Alphacom 32 printer & several Joystics

Atari 1040STE, Spectrum+, Commodore 16, Atari Lynx2 + 8 games, Alphacom 32 printer & several Joystics

DSC_0104.jpg

Just saved these from going to the tip :thumbsup:
 
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Just built myself a joystick converter so I can hook up a regular Atari/Commodore joystick to my PC.
joystick converter.jpg

Built using an Arduino Pro Micro board and presents itself to the system as a HID joystick. Tested and working fine with WinUAE. :)
 
demolition said:
Got a Kryoflux not too long ago and have been looking for a decent cabinet to put my floppy drives in together with the Kryoflux instead of having everything lying around loosely connected on my table.

Last week I got a nice (and free!) small chassis which I think was originally used for an optical drive. Today I finished integrating the Kryoflux, power supply, 5.25" drive and the 3.5" drive on top as seen on the pictures.

I had an external PSU from a faulty external HDD chassis, but the PSU was good and was specced for 5V 2A, 12V 2A, twice of the original PSU in this chassis which was not working well. This PSU is now mounted inside the chassis using a gap pad (thermal) to conduct its heat on to the bottom of the chassis. As mentioned, the Kryoflux is also internal mounted on a bent piece of sheet steel and I made a hole for the USB connector. The 3.5" drive is secured using four screw holes through the top of the chassis so it is not going anywhere.

I think this is a quite nice and small solution and it works well (after some trouble with the flat cable which I had to customize but it is sorted now).
View attachment 100651View attachment 100652
Click to expand...
Wow, impressive!
Did you use the loose external Molex PSU that they sell once in a while on the Kyroflux webshop before you assembled this setup?
 
Amon_RA said:
Did you use the loose external Molex PSU that they sell once in a while on the Kyroflux webshop before you assembled this setup?
Click to expand...
I bought the kit which apart from the board included two Molex Y-cables (one for 5.25", one for 3.5"), a floppy cable and the USB cable.
 
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demolition said:
I bought the kit which apart from the board included two Molex Y-cables (one for 5.25", one for 3.5"), a floppy cable and the USB cable.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'm looking for a small external Molex PSU because the one on their webshop is not available anymore. I don't fancy using a huge pc PSU instead... so based on your build I'll check if I can find my old external CD drive with build-in psu somewhere...
 
Amon_RA said:
demolition said:
I bought the kit which apart from the board included two Molex Y-cables (one for 5.25", one for 3.5"), a floppy cable and the USB cable.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'm looking for a small external Molex PSU because the one on their webshop is not available anymore. I don't fancy using a huge pc PSU instead... so based on your build I'll check if I can find my old external CD drive with build-in psu somewhere...
Click to expand...

For a PSU I used one that I got with an USB-ATA adapter kit similar to this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SATA-IDE-Dr...-for-2-5-3-5-inch-HD-Hard-Drive-/400824684265

I have seen the same type of PSU (with a different plug) being sold as 1541-II or CD32 PSU.

I cannot recommend those PSUs though as they are very noisy (electrically). It worked, but creates noise in my speakers and the display when using my C64, so they are probably not EMI compliant. The PSU I am using now is working great with no noise issues at all.

When I need PSUs I usually go to a local flea market - there are often lots to choose from and you can find a quality PSU for almost no money. :) And since 5V+12V is common it shouldn't be too hard to find.
 
A PicoPSU will also work and then you could have the 12V brick externally if you don't feel comfortable messing with 230V inside the chassis (which you shouldn't do if you don't know what you're doing).
It might be a little overkill though since you won't need all the voltages that this can provide and power-wise it is also quite overkill.
A cheap solution could be to use a random external 12V brick and then internally use a 5V step down board to convert 12V into 5V. They can be found very cheaply on ebay (search for '5v step down').
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-Super-...n-Power-Supply-Module-3V-5V-16V-/171907162717

And to drive a floppy, adding some capacitance to the 5V output is probably good since floppies can be very peaky in the power draw (ever noticed the Amiga power LED flashing slightly when the drive clicks?).
 
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That is a great idea! Single barrel connection for 12V and the buck converter mounted inside. All for $0.99 plus a barrel connector, some wiring and a (probably free) 12V brick. Under $5 and very reliable.
 
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sweetlilmre said:
Under $5 and very reliable.
Click to expand...
Well, as a general rule I won't count on that kind of cheap ebay electronics to be 'very reliable'. :)
I'd test it out extensively before risking ruining a good floppy drive, and possibly add some extra safety mechanism to protect the drives, e.g. over voltage protection.
 
Thought I would post this.

bought spares/ repair for pocket change.

soldered 3.14a fuse had blown due to speaker shorting on the pcb.

soldered a new fuse, repaired the speaker (hate being old so much squinting to even see the wire)

not a bad picture, the camera makes it looked blurred but its not. my camera was focused on the Namco TV Game.

:D
 

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