Justin
Active member
right so i have a nice working A500 but it needs a little retrobrite love, anyone fancy suppling me a kit? and what about me not having any uv lights, will daylight be OK?
cheers, JuvUK
cheers, JuvUK
Retr0bright Support Thread
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@ JuvUK
No kits here m8, but RE the UV light....
There is a certain amount of UV light on non-sunny days, but obviously more on sunny ones. A UV light can get you faster results, especially when you live in a wet country like ours.
Kin
No kits here m8, but RE the UV light....
There is a certain amount of UV light on non-sunny days, but obviously more on sunny ones. A UV light can get you faster results, especially when you live in a wet country like ours.
Kin
@ Juvster
I can send you some TAED and some Xanthan Gum, however, you'll need to source some H2O2 locally, from the local Sally's hairdressing supplies.
You want?
Daylight will be perfectly OK.
I can send you some TAED and some Xanthan Gum, however, you'll need to source some H2O2 locally, from the local Sally's hairdressing supplies.
You want?
Daylight will be perfectly OK.
Just out of interest, does pure TAED foam less than oxy action whatever?
Btw guys, if you are in the UK Aldi sell an oxy alternative for £1-£2, much cheaper than vanish or whatever.
You don't get foaming at all with TAED as it's not a detergent, although gas generated by the reaction may cause it to "mousse up" a bit.
The Oxy products all have detergents added, so adding too much gets you foam icebergs all over the place.
The pound shop Oxy works just as well as the Vanish stuff.
The Oxy products all have detergents added, so adding too much gets you foam icebergs all over the place.
The pound shop Oxy works just as well as the Vanish stuff.
Justin
Active member
i hope to able to put up some pictures of an A500 and A520 this weekend, deliveries and weather permitting of course
I have to get some Retr0bright to treat some of my stuff, its noticeable yellow and the top and bottom of one case is from different machines (I never noticed that). One odd thing, the BBC's red keytops are marked somehow too, look dirty, but its the same old plastic deterioration again.
Going to start by getting a UV source, can anyone recommend something that could also be used for wiping EPROMs as well ?
Going to start by getting a UV source, can anyone recommend something that could also be used for wiping EPROMs as well ?
Hi,
I am currently running my first attempt (with Merlin's original recipe). Applied the mixture early evening and am thrilled to see how it all looks tomorrow morning.
One question: how thick do you apply the paste? Thinly spread or heavy duty?
Thanks!
Khondar
I am currently running my first attempt (with Merlin's original recipe). Applied the mixture early evening and am thrilled to see how it all looks tomorrow morning.
One question: how thick do you apply the paste? Thinly spread or heavy duty?
Thanks!
Khondar
Preferably you want to keep an eye on it, as if it dries up there is a chance of bloom developing. I always spread it very thick. Also are you using UV lamps? If not you probably would have better luck doing it during the day when the sun is shining as this aids the process. Hope this helps
Yes, I am using an 18W EnergySaving UV-Lamp (equivalent to a regular 80W bulb).
I didn't spread it that thick... just a "single coating", and I have the feeling that it was not enough... The keys I put in pure 15% and let them also sit until tomorrow morning. So curious to see...
I didn't spread it that thick... just a "single coating", and I have the feeling that it was not enough... The keys I put in pure 15% and let them also sit until tomorrow morning. So curious to see...
The keys will be fine, however be careful of the paste as unsupervised it may dry out and cause damage to the plastics. I know that in a 5-8 hour period I re-apply about 4-5 times. This is however in sunshine so I get a lot more evaporation.
I left it sitting over night and the result was... as expected: partial those areas where I had applied the mixture thicker look as if the Amiga came straight out of the box. Other parts not so well. So I will do it again tonight with a much thicker coat.
In the recipe it says "a day or so"... my first attempt seemed sufficient after 12 hours.... HOW LONG do you guys leave it sitting usually?
those areas where I had applied the mixture thicker look as if the Amiga came straight out of the box. Other parts not so well. So I will do it again tonight with a much thicker coat.In the recipe it says "a day or so"... my first attempt seemed sufficient after 12 hours.... HOW LONG do you guys leave it sitting usually?
I had a UV tube light. During the day my stuff went out in the daylight, at night under the uv bulb. I didnt see much if any change under the bulb, but daylight gave results. You need to get the stuff out in your garden or on an outside windowsill. Merlin gave me a scientific answer to this on this thread a while back. let me find it......
---------- Post added at 09:09 ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 ----------
here it is
---------- Post added at 09:09 ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 ----------
here it is
Which method is more successful: the gel version of Ret0bright, or submersing the entire case in liquid H2O2 with Oxy?
Using the gel for the first time, I noticed that the case is not evenly bleeched. There are some parts which are brighter than others.... even though I applied the gel evenly allover. I would imagine that this would not be the case using the liquid method? Any experiences?
Using the gel for the first time, I noticed that the case is not evenly bleeched. There are some parts which are brighter than others.... even though I applied the gel evenly allover. I would imagine that this would not be the case using the liquid method? Any experiences?
@ Khondar
ABS Plastic is a wierd beast, in that moulding flow marks can sometimes show up. The plastic also doesn't yellow evenly either, so treating it can also be uneven. It can take two or three treatments to get it all even and the same colour.
ABS polymer is a bit like human DNA, in that no two batches are ever likely to be exactly the same.
The liquid is better for keys, small parts and items that can be totally immersed in liquid. Larger items are where the gel is a better bet. It has also been found that a gel coat covered with cling film works well as the cling film stops the water from the gel from evaporating, as this would send the level of peroxide in the gel through the roof and cause 'blooming', a white 'bloom' on the surface where the polymer has been attacked.
By keeping the peroxide level low and preventing evaporation, good results can be given the best chance of happening.
ABS Plastic is a wierd beast, in that moulding flow marks can sometimes show up. The plastic also doesn't yellow evenly either, so treating it can also be uneven. It can take two or three treatments to get it all even and the same colour.
ABS polymer is a bit like human DNA, in that no two batches are ever likely to be exactly the same.
The liquid is better for keys, small parts and items that can be totally immersed in liquid. Larger items are where the gel is a better bet. It has also been found that a gel coat covered with cling film works well as the cling film stops the water from the gel from evaporating, as this would send the level of peroxide in the gel through the roof and cause 'blooming', a white 'bloom' on the surface where the polymer has been attacked.
By keeping the peroxide level low and preventing evaporation, good results can be given the best chance of happening.
@ Merlin
Thank you for your input! So it's just a matter of continuously repeating the procedure until it's all bright. I was worried that it's a devil's circle...
As to the procedure, maybe you can clarify for me:
Does it matter how thick the gel is put on? What would be your advice?
Once the gel starts foaming, do you re-distribute the foam/gel evenly in regular periods during the process? Or do you put entirely new gel on? And lastly: when do I know the process is finished? when all the foam is gone? :dry:
Just trying to figure out the best way and benefit from your expertise.
Thank you for your input! So it's just a matter of continuously repeating the procedure until it's all bright. I was worried that it's a devil's circle...
As to the procedure, maybe you can clarify for me:
Does it matter how thick the gel is put on? What would be your advice?
Once the gel starts foaming, do you re-distribute the foam/gel evenly in regular periods during the process? Or do you put entirely new gel on? And lastly: when do I know the process is finished? when all the foam is gone? :dry:
Just trying to figure out the best way and benefit from your expertise.
OK, let's see....
Q: Does it matter how thick the gel is put on? What would be your advice?
I would aim for an even coat about 2-3mm thick, that should be more than adequate. That will foam up to about 1cm thick in use.
Q: Once the gel starts foaming, do you re-distribute the foam/gel evenly in regular periods during the process? Or do you put entirely new gel on?
When I did the original experiments on my C64 (the one in the Wiki) I did find that it foamed up and then slumped off due to the weight. Keeping the amount of Oxy low will minimise foaming and you shouldn't need to keep moving it around. The Cling film will also help to hold it in place.
Q: When do I know the process is finished? when all the foam is gone?
Once you have added the Oxy, the reaction starts and it can last 24 to 48 hours. With a batch of liquid Retr0bright, the peroxide will be exhausted within 48 hours.
Most cases are restored by two or three treatments maximum.
Q: Does it matter how thick the gel is put on? What would be your advice?
I would aim for an even coat about 2-3mm thick, that should be more than adequate. That will foam up to about 1cm thick in use.
Q: Once the gel starts foaming, do you re-distribute the foam/gel evenly in regular periods during the process? Or do you put entirely new gel on?
When I did the original experiments on my C64 (the one in the Wiki) I did find that it foamed up and then slumped off due to the weight. Keeping the amount of Oxy low will minimise foaming and you shouldn't need to keep moving it around. The Cling film will also help to hold it in place.
Q: When do I know the process is finished? when all the foam is gone?
Once you have added the Oxy, the reaction starts and it can last 24 to 48 hours. With a batch of liquid Retr0bright, the peroxide will be exhausted within 48 hours.
Most cases are restored by two or three treatments maximum.