From the same people who sell the plastic enclosure here http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/product_info.php?products_id=14
Solution for external Flicker fixer?
- Thread starter Harrison
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From the same people who sell the plastic enclosure here http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/product_info.php?products_id=14
Just a few pointers to clarify random queries here.
- This box won't accept SVideo input. There is absolutely no point going from RGB to SVideo to this anyway. just go RGB to this.
- It only has RGBS (GGA/EGA) and Component input@15KHz and two 31KHz VGA OUTPUTS (not inputs).
- you can power a GBS and a Sync Strike (and even an SLG 3000) from a single 5V 2A PSU, you don't need 2. (splice a wire across from the GBS power screw terminals to the input of the Sync Strike). The GBS uses most juice whereas the SS and SLG only use a small amount. I have mine setup from one supply (pics to come soon, just finishing up the hacked box)
- PLEASE DON'T POWER THE GBS FROM THE RGB PORT! you will eventually damage your Amiga board.
- If you are planning to use this as a replacement to an Indivision AGA, forget it! Its not capable of anything near the quality of Indi. Playing amiga games yes, power user amiga, no.
- This board is designed for arcade machines, eg 15KHz low res and low colour.
- In the conversion and scaling there is noise and random wavey lines sometimes, the picture isn't pin sharp like you'd expect from a standard VGA input, but for me that kinda adds to the nostalgia (I run mine with my Neo Geo).
- Only Gripe is that now and then there are split seconds where it misses a frame or more and you can notice. And text can be a bit wobbly sometimes. But its rare.
- For me it runs with less noise in 640x480, and better looking scanlines with SLG300, but more screen errors. In 800x600 the SLG doesn't work, in 1024x768, the scanlines look too small to be authentic but there are less screen errors. Not tried the HD res yet.
I hope these randoms help a little.
- This box won't accept SVideo input. There is absolutely no point going from RGB to SVideo to this anyway. just go RGB to this.
- It only has RGBS (GGA/EGA) and Component input@15KHz and two 31KHz VGA OUTPUTS (not inputs).
- you can power a GBS and a Sync Strike (and even an SLG 3000) from a single 5V 2A PSU, you don't need 2. (splice a wire across from the GBS power screw terminals to the input of the Sync Strike). The GBS uses most juice whereas the SS and SLG only use a small amount. I have mine setup from one supply (pics to come soon, just finishing up the hacked box)
- PLEASE DON'T POWER THE GBS FROM THE RGB PORT! you will eventually damage your Amiga board.
- If you are planning to use this as a replacement to an Indivision AGA, forget it! Its not capable of anything near the quality of Indi. Playing amiga games yes, power user amiga, no.
- This board is designed for arcade machines, eg 15KHz low res and low colour.
- In the conversion and scaling there is noise and random wavey lines sometimes, the picture isn't pin sharp like you'd expect from a standard VGA input, but for me that kinda adds to the nostalgia (I run mine with my Neo Geo).
- Only Gripe is that now and then there are split seconds where it misses a frame or more and you can notice. And text can be a bit wobbly sometimes. But its rare.
- For me it runs with less noise in 640x480, and better looking scanlines with SLG300, but more screen errors. In 800x600 the SLG doesn't work, in 1024x768, the scanlines look too small to be authentic but there are less screen errors. Not tried the HD res yet.
I hope these randoms help a little.
Ed.D
Active member
@Phippscube,
I probably mentioned it has 2 VGA inputs, my mistake perhaps. I was thinking this because of the menu selection, RGBS and RGBHV. Does this just mean a different way of receiving the signal if wired differently into the single physical input pinout?
I probably mentioned it has 2 VGA inputs, my mistake perhaps. I was thinking this because of the menu selection, RGBS and RGBHV. Does this just mean a different way of receiving the signal if wired differently into the single physical input pinout?
there`s 3 svga connectors on mine, guess 1 is for input but what input it expects I`m not entirely sure
Yeah, RGBS uses composite Sync (S) and RGBHV is for seperate Horizontal (H) and Vertical (V) Sync inputs. I failed to mention HV above. You aren't selecting 2 different input channels so to speak, you are just telling the GBS if you are running an RGBS signal or an RGBHV. you will most likely only ever use RGBS with Amiga or any retro console (Via Sync Strike which strips Composite sync from composite video of standard SCART so that RGB becomes RGBS).
Yep 3 15 Pin D SUB connectors but only 2 are Standard (S)VGA (Outputs). If you look closely the 15 Pin connector on the inputs is directly inline with the two RGB headers. Basically the 15 Pin D input is to allow standard VGA cables to be used for RGBHV input. I *THINK* I read somewhere that it can pass thru a standard 31KHz VGA signal, but i've not tried it, and it would of course be pointless.
The cable provided that connects to the 8 pin header is the one to use, the 15 Pin D sub is just an alternative if you want to use "VGA" cables. You may, for example, have a device that outputs RGBHV via 5 x BNC connectors to 15 Pin D Sub. I used to repair train info controllers that had just these outputs @ 15KHz. A standard BNC to 15 Pin D Sub cable would be perfect for one of these.
Indeed a connector is a connector the magic happens when you wire it up
if it passed through a standard 31KHz VGA signal that could be the output from my voodoo3 then I would only need one monitor connected to my A1200, core that be nice, now why havent I got my A1200 set up to try it out gerrrrr
if it passed through a standard 31KHz VGA signal that could be the output from my voodoo3 then I would only need one monitor connected to my A1200, core that be nice, now why havent I got my A1200 set up to try it out gerrrrr
Yo Cosmic mate! Its still only 1 input. There may well be 4 connection options but you can only use one input. You can't plug VGA 31KHz and 15KHz RGB in at the same time, all the lines are joined so you'd be effectively mixing VGA 31KHz with RGB 15KHz, was that the plan? as a switcher? It Won't do that mate 
Would be ultra cool if it did!
I think the only viable use for inputting 31KHZ VGA (If it does work) is for those later arcade boards that output 31KHz but maybe only have set resolutions of 640x480. The GBS is then just a simple scaler so those boards can run at 800x600 or 1024x768 (or The HD res if wanted on a HDTV).
Would be ultra cool if it did!I think the only viable use for inputting 31KHZ VGA (If it does work) is for those later arcade boards that output 31KHz but maybe only have set resolutions of 640x480. The GBS is then just a simple scaler so those boards can run at 800x600 or 1024x768 (or The HD res if wanted on a HDTV).
Indeed was just saying it be nice if you could or if it did work like that. The joys of wishful thinking
Actually got round to trying my board last night but it would`t work ..... on closer inspection there's a solder splatter across the legs of one chip, lol so a little iffin and blimin later I had it all fixed and finally saw my amiga WB through it, Resulting Ribbits I think and a nice little save
Actually got round to trying my board last night but it would`t work ..... on closer inspection there's a solder splatter across the legs of one chip, lol so a little iffin and blimin later I had it all fixed and finally saw my amiga WB through it, Resulting Ribbits I think and a nice little save
corrr when did that happen 
i was thinking of one of ratte's auto switchers if i can get the parts together.
ive also ordered a manual one for testing purposes,and see if it can be jerry rigged for an automatic mode somehow.
ah ok i have a spare LT1675 from if you want one
Phipscubes diy switch
https://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=13932
Phipscubes diy switch
https://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=13932
cheers mate,what ill do is wait for the 8220's to turn up from china then wire one up and see how it goes first,what i want to do is make one as versitile as phisicly possible,i know it wont be no indivision but if it works it wont matter.
ill have a look at the link as well and get as much info as i can on this and try it out.
I have received the plexiglas housing for this device and i am quite pleased with it.
However, i ordered a suitable 5V 2A PSU from the same guys and they sent me a 1 A PSU.
Hence, i still have crap out of my A1200 RGB port and a pink awful picture from the RGB port of my A2000 and i am quite **** of. They sell this almost 8 euros.
I still don't know if the device itself is crap or if the PSU is not enough powerful.
However, i ordered a suitable 5V 2A PSU from the same guys and they sent me a 1 A PSU.
Hence, i still have crap out of my A1200 RGB port and a pink awful picture from the RGB port of my A2000 and i am quite **** of. They sell this almost 8 euros.
I still don't know if the device itself is crap or if the PSU is not enough powerful.
I have received the plexiglas housing for this device and i am quite pleased with it.
However, i ordered a suitable 5V 2A PSU from the same guys and they sent me a 1 A PSU.
Hence, i still have crap out of my A1200 RGB port and a pink awful picture from the RGB port of my A2000 and i am quite **** of. They sell this almost 8 euros.
I still don't know if the device itself is crap or if the PSU is not enough powerful.
its the power supply,just ask for a replacement(you ordered a 2 amp they sent you a 1 amp)
At a guess converting the Hoz and vertical syncs into the one sync
not sure why u would do this as there seems to be seperat hoz and vertical syncs on the board
not sure why u would do this as there seems to be seperat hoz and vertical syncs on the board
